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I've got some Centaur 10sp shifters [url= http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/groupsetdetail/item_ergopowerCE10_catid_2.jsp ]these[/url] and fitted them today, to find the front shifter clicks twice - for a triple chainset. But I'm only running a double. The previous versions of these I had were fine for a double and the spec from Campagnolo says the shifters are double and triple compatible...
From that, I assume there's some way of setting the left-hand shifter up so it works for double only - with just one shift down and up, not two.
Nothing in the instructions to say this or show how you'd do it - any ideas?
no idea if there's a proper way - I'd just set the 2 rings up as if they were the 2 biggest of a triple and leave the 3rd "inner" click to leave a bit of slack in the cable (since you'll have set the mech stops for only 2)
Campag shifters don't shift with one click between chainrings. It's so that you can trim the front mech to avoid that annoying grating sound. They're supposed to work like you've described.
Hi brooess, aP's reply is substantially correct - the only thing to be careful of (and we see this all the time) is that the LH ergos all require correct cable tension.
Once upon a time, with older design levers it wasn't so important, but as with Shimano and SRAM, the cable tension now has to be "right" to get correct function.
So, the full and correct procedure is:
1. Check the condition of the gear tunnels, they should be clean and the cables should not have worn grooves in them. Unless your frame has come equipped with it's own tunnels, ensure that they are Campagnolo and are a snug fit the the BB shell, if you have external cabling. Best to do this now as if tou find it's a problem later, you'll have to unset and then reset rear and front derailleurs ... cables should be genuine Campag (yes, it does make a difference) and ferrules should be metal, not plastc (likewise).
2. Ensure that you have correct chainline. For a 10s Campag sysstem this is 43.5 mm, +/- 1.5 mm ... the measurement is centre seat tube to the inner surface of the outside chainring & assumes a Campag cassette mounted on a Campag hub.
3. Ensure that you have a compatible front derailleur - older designs don't shift correctly with PowerShift.
4. Set the derailleur height (lower surface of outside cage plate 2 - 3 mm above the tops of the tallest teeth of the outer chainring) and orientation (outer plate part opposite the hinge parallel with the chainrings) correctly.
5. Before attaching the FD cable, shift the bike to the biggest sprocket at the rear and set the inside limit screw so that there is between 1/2 and 1mm clearance between the back surface of the chain and the front surface of the inner cage plate of the FD. If you do this without the FD cable attached, you know the only thing limiting the movement of the FD is the screw - not the cable which might otherwise end up being pre-loaded.
6. Screw the LH cable adjuster all the way in, then out about one and a half or two turns to allow you to reduce cable tension if you pull too much cable tension in initially.
7. Ensure that the LH lever is in the low gear position (required in any case to install the inner cable).
8. Pull the slack out of the front gear cable (not too much, just eliminate the looseness) & attach the front gear cable at the pinch bolt. It runs over the little shoulder adjacent to the punch bolt, not "under" it (i.e. not between the shoulder and the pinch bolt).
9. Turning the pedals at a speed similar to that used when riding, take one click on the upshift lever - the FD should move towards the big ring by about 1mm. If it doesn't move, increase the gear cable tension. If it moves much more than about 1mm, reduce the tension a little. The second click should move the FD about another 2 or 3 mm outboard and in bottom gear, the chain should now scrape noticeably against the FD. The third click should shift the chain all the way up to the big ring, and when you shift at the back into top gear smallest sprocket at the back), there should be no scraping of the chain against the inside of the outer plate of the FD. If there is, increase cable tension until you have a gap of approx 1 - 2 mm between the outer surface of the chain and the inside of the FD's outer cage plate.
10. Screw the outer limit screw in until it just touches the surface of the shift arm, so that pulling on the FD cable will not pull the FD more than about 1mm further "out" - the system needs a small amount of "overshift" as all derailleur systems do.
11. Check that on downshift, the first click just allows the FD to move about 1 mm inboard and that in this position, the chain does not scrape on the inside of the FD cage when you are in the lowest gear / two gears (biggest two sprockets) at the back.
12. The limit screws are now set and will not need to be changed again, but you may need to fine tune the cable tension - some compaction of the outer cable, and some pulling of the outer cable into the ferrule and the seat in the lever and of the ferrule into the adjuster may take place over the first few dozen shifts, which will need the adjustment of the cable tension, to maintain the 3rd click to the big ring from the inmost position of the front gear situation.
13. We recommend this method as if the cable is set too taut, the trim click won't work correctly. If the cable is too slack, more than one sweep of the LH upshift lever will be needed to get from small ring to big - part-way through the second sweep, the FD will come up against the limit screw and eventually this application of shift force at the lever against an immovable screw may result in upshift lever failure.
HTH!
Graeme, Velotech Cycling Ltd., Main UK Campag Service Centre.
Wow ... now that is an answer !!
Well played Graeme
OP here: thanks Graeme, really helpful. That'll keep me busy this weekend!