Bike shop or Trek responsible for steerer tube?

30mm of stack under the stem is a hell of a lot. Do you really need all that?

Remove 1 and put a 5mm on top (as there will be 2mm of steerer above the stem now)and job done.

I'd just tweak as above and get on with enjoying riding it.

Looks fine to me.

I'd say setting the spacers is down to the rider (unless the bike shop offered a fitting service). They've left enough uncut for you to adjust it to suit. It's a personal preference thing, like adjusting the seatpost height

The integrity of the bar at the clamp zone would be more my concern.

No, that's not right but as others have said just change the spacers around and all will be OK again.

You'd like to think that the factory would send it out with the top bolt below the steer tube as a minimum. Whether the shop should check this on a PDI is another matter.

It's not perfect, but I'd not be causing a fuss on it

Bike has a pretty low stack so think that’s why they come with all 30mm under the bar.

I haven’t put it all back together yet as need to get a knock block 5mm spacer to make it fit.

The integrity of the bar at the clamp zone would be more my concern.

I was wondering what was going on there too

They are my 4 year old renthal bars. The gold has all come off but the carbon underneath is not scratched.

I have a set of Nukeproofs to go on.

Steerer's ~5mm below whatever sits into those side recesses, I assume a matched top cap?

Factory cuts the steerer, shop should check it as part of the PDi

Factory cuts the steerer, shop should check it as part of the PDi

Grooves are for the knockblock

I need to get a 5mm knock block spacer.

If I put one of the 10s above the stem the gap is still going to be over 8mm.

I might be wrong, but I wouldn't have thought that the gap itself is the problem, it's whether the the top of the steerer (with the headset preloaded) is above the upper of the two stem clamp bolts. If it's not then the stem is really only being secured by the lower bolt and may not be safe to ride.

I'm pretty sure that some stems do recommend that the steer goes completely through the stem with at least one spacer on top (going back to the size of the gap, I don't think it's particularly problematic if this is one of the 10mm ones giving a bigger gap than the usual 3-4mm, the headset can still be preloaded correctly).

Is the bottom headset race fully pressed onto the fork crown. Worth checking, a few mm off May account for accessible gap in the stem.

I’ve seen it before.

Looks just like it does in this video

I need to get a 5mm knock block spacer.

Or trim your steerer by 5mm and remove a 10mm spacer

The stem is probably not attached to the bike when it arrives at the shop.

Can't remember with treks but bikes most often come with the stem attached but the bar off. For a PDI on a bike, shops will mostly check headset is not loose and stem bolts are torqued correctly. I'd be mentioning it to the shop so they can feed back to Trek.

"the top bolt sits slightly above the steerer." - this isn't ideal for sure. The middle of the bolt should be level with the top of the steerer or lower.

As to who cut it, it could be either. Sometimes bikes come with loads of steerer and the shop might make the judgement call to cut it down, especially as higher rise bars have thankfully come back in vogue again.

The stem is probably not attached to the bike when it arrives at the shop.

Yea it arrives attached, the bars don't though

I'd be much more worried about the bars tbh.

If I put one of the 10s above the stem the gap is still going to be over 8mm.

But you'll be taking that 10mm from below the stem right?
Now the stem is 2mm below the top of the steerer and the 10m spacer above is irrelevant on clamping force and only providing preload

As above, it's fine, just swap a spacer above the stem if you're worried.