[Closed] Best solution 142 to 148 new frame?

I'm just staying with 142mm rear bikes to avoid this kind of headache.

Stick that in your pipe and smoke it, bike industry!

I think you're out of luck with centrelock, unfortunately. Lots of converters for 6-bolt like the below, but there's no easy way to space a centrelock disc.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator

Centrelock to 6-bolt converter, then a boostinator-type kit?

teethgrinder - Member
Centrelock to 6-bolt converter, then a boostinator-type kit?

The converter, the disc and the boostinator are all trying to be in the same place on that scenario. Won't work.

Maybe not a boostinator for the rotor then, but a spacer under the rotor?

What frame?

Dare I suggest that steel is erm... "springy"... 🙄

Joking aside, asked Joe @ Starling to send me both 142 and 148 Boost axles with my new Murmur frame (it was designed 142) so I can swap wheels etc. should I want to. The swingarm barely needs any teasing to slide the 148 Boost hub in! I had expected to have to be a little more persuasive, but not at all... Of course I can't guarantee every frame would be the same.

teethgrinder - Member
Maybe not a boostinator for the rotor then, but a spacer under the rotor?

If you put 6mm spacers behind the rotor, then the centrelock adaptor can't thread onto the hub.

You'd need some sort of spacer held on by the centrelock adapter with either offset threaded holes, or threaded holes in the centrelock adapter itself which the rotor could then be bolted to - with only 6mm of space to accomodate the centrelock adapter and the spacer.

Ah...Makes sense.

mboy - Member

Joking aside, asked Joe @ Starling to send me both 142 and 148 Boost axles with my new Murmur frame (it was designed 142) so I can swap wheels etc. should I want to. The swingarm barely needs any teasing to slide the 148 Boost hub in! I had expected to have to be a little more persuasive, but not at all... Of course I can't guarantee every frame would be the same.

I know someone (cough) who fitted a 142 wheel to a 135x12 frame. It went in with surprising ease, although gears and the like were a mess

teethgrinder - Member
Ah...Makes sense.

A rotor with an offset might do it, but there's not much space for it all

I guess my cheapest option is to get a new 240 hub for about £250 £90 rebuild and sell my existing hun. To bad the 350s don't come with a 36t or I would consider getting one of those. Other option is to buy a new rear wheel for £450.

I wish someone would make a centre lock adapter which was 6mm thicker and a lock ring which had 6mm more thread.

fr0sty125 - Member
I guess my cheapest option is to get a new 240 hub for about £250 £90 rebuild and sell my existing hun. To bad the 350s don't come with a 36t or I would consider getting one of those. Other option is to buy a new rear wheel for £450.

A £340 rear wheel rebuild is your cheapest option ? Really ? You could buy a new HOPE rear for less?

The cheapest you can get 240 hubs is about £250, £14 for nipples £28 for spokes, £50 for rebuild.

Just use washers. Depending on the caliper you might get away with 3 or 4mm washers on the disc side. Then 4 or 5mm on the drive side. Ok the chainline won't be optimal in 1st gear but it will work.

Total cost about £2.

To bad the 350s don't come with a 36t or I would consider getting one of those

if you mean the 36T ratchet then you can easily fit one to a 350.

https://r2-bike.com/NOW8-Conversion-Kit-Boost-Adapter-Rear-Centerlock-12x148-Boost

This?

Ok that looks like a solution!

This major step forward in bike technology (Boost, rear 142 to 148mm and front 100 to 110mm) is about making "old" Bike bits obsolete.

Bodge your perfectly good hub to fit? Sounds like a bodge,

I'm sticking with what I've got. My perfectly good Ck hubs that I've had for 8 years can't be adapted (without a bodge) but they've gone from qr to 20mm then 15, rear went from qr to "fun bolt" then 142mm but now it's game over for them?

F*** progress. Marketing c####

I'm out.