Forum menu
Anything i should beware of?
Just ordered a replacement roll of tape to replace the (frankly) filthy white tape on my bars. Never done this before, can't be that difficult shirley?
Fizik video on you tube is brilliant.
I've always done mine back-to-front (starting at the stem end). You don't need any tape to stop the end undoing and the other end is retained by the bar end.
Peel the hoods back on themselves and use the small strip that is supplied on the outside of the brake to hide the brake clamp.
Lots of video stuff online. Clockwise left, anticlockwise right.
Wrap it with out taking the adhesive backing off until you've got the knack. Keep the spacing constant. Tape with stitching IMO is harder than plain tape.
Followed a video very easy. Stem to Ends and and obviously wrapped in the right direction. Only tricky bit is round the shifters.
The current tape is back to front so if i unwind that and see how its done i should be OK! Will watch that vid tomorrow though, cheers 🙂
[url=
is another video worth watching... 8)
cheers_drive - MemberWrap it with out taking the adhesive backing off until you've got the knack.
I am 'lucky' enough to be of an age where tape never used to have an adhesive backing so the skill could be honed quite easily. It also made re-wrapping easy.
always end to stem, always.
Use insulation tape or similar to fix the cables in place and to finish off the main tape when you get to the bulge. The finishing tape they include is always crap!
I prefer stem down, no tape and no cheat strips. Less is more. I like that gel tape often lacks a sticky backing but holds in place well. Cutting the end about 2" from the end to the corner gives a more useful starting shape.
Sticky tape the cables in place considerately and symmetrically. Also try to get an even lap so you have the same number of winds on each portion of the bar.
Clockwise left, anticlockwise right.
Yeah, but it reverses at the hoods so the bit after the hoods (closer to stem) goes the opposite way. Which makes sense if you think of how your hands naturally rotate the tape.
Starts off going outside-to-inside then inside-to-outside.
Anyway, that video is pretty good if you actually follow it closely.
Can reverse at the hoods, but looks a bit rubbish if your tape pattern isn't symmetrical around the centre... in which case you're better off using the little bit of extra tape for behind the hoods and keep wrapping in the same direction.
. It can reverse if you want it to but if you use the supplied hood clamp covers then no need to figure of 8 and reverse.Yeah, but it reverses at the hoods
We are both saying the same thing tho 🙂
Mrblobby +1, and then it's still right on the tops 🙂
I'm the opposite - anti-clockwise-left, clockwise right (ie., winding outwards). Work your way up to the brakes and a nice figure of eight to continue onto the top of the bars. Cheat strips not required. Count the loops on each side to make sure you are symmetrical (about 10 to the brakes). Trim the ends at the top of the bars so that you have a nice squared finish (a thin sliver is cut off), apply electrical tape to keep the tension, then add the finishing tape over that. The supplied tape is seldom good enough to hold fast for a good finish.
The reason for bottom up is of course so that the lip of the tape is overlapping down as you rest your hands on the upper bend at the hoods and apply downward pressure.
Not all tape is the same. I like the Fizik micro tape, but it is not for beginners as it has little stretch so is harder to apply. Something like Specialized or even the cheap black Halfords tape is strong and stretchy and an excellent tape to learn the trade. I also don't like the gel underneath. I prefer the cushioning of carbon bars because I have small hands.
TiRed - we are the same on the tops as you figure of 8 and I cheat so the important part, the tops, is same 🙂
Indeed. And the first fig of 8 is fine, but often my brain forgets to reverse the second and I have to start again 😳
The reason for bottom up is of course so that the lip of the tape is overlapping down as you rest your hands on the upper bend at the hoods and apply downward pressure.
WELL SAID THAT MAN
if you start at the stem end the leading edge just gets rolled up and then it starts to crack - oh yeah and white is a PITA cos it gets grubby too quickly, it's only any good for pros (most teams have black now it seems) and people who don't actually do any mileage