[Closed] Avid Juicy Caliper Overhaul

Bin them and get some proper brakes.

That is what i am considering doing. I hate my juicy 7s.

Bri
i've just had the caliper overhaul done at my not so local LBS ( escape route )

Colin did it quickly and re bled the brakes, bill was exactly as agreed
( look at £12 per end for parts + labour )

brakes are like new and popped a new set of superstar sintered pads in
love them to bits

imho they are no worse than my old hope minis for maintenence but 100 % better prformance / modulation and feel

"Bin them and get some proper brakes"

I say the same thing every time I change pads.

Changing pads is a doddle, as long as you make sure you've pushed the pistons right back before removing the old ones.

bri - had the same issue as you on my rear caliper.

Had mine apart and rebuilt without to much issue (new piston and seal kit came from Edinburgh Cycles CoOp thingy)

Two head scratching moments for me -
1. Getting the old piston out - found a plastic adaptor thingy as used in inflating airbeds, put that on my usual pump, inserted nozzle into relevant port on caliper and LO - out shot the piston - top tip, do as SRAM say = do this job with caliper in a bag to catch said piston .....
2. Bleeding - for some reason I missed the 'pump fluid back in' having bleed the handle bit - drove me mad.... then someone here sent me this link
[url=

tutorial on You Tube[/url]
Hope that helps.

Changing pads is a doddle, as long as you make sure you've pushed the pistons right back before removing the old ones.

But then even with the pistons fully retracted I find it almost impossible for 2 pads to fit in together - I have to fit one pad then the other, using a Tesco clubcard to keep the spring together - which is very fiddly at best.

I'd never be able to do it on the trail at all.

I've rebuilt a few Juicy 7 calipers. I ride through the winter so my calipers pistons stick about every 18 months and need to be rebuilt. What I've found is road dirt gets onto the sides of the square O ring that provides the seal between the caliper piston and caliper body. That O ring then expands and prevents the fluid movement of the caliper piston. So, essentially, what you need to do is take all the parts apart to clean the square O rings and the square O ring groove that seats the O ring in the caliper.

To get the pistons out and be able to reuse them I do the following. First, keep the caliper secured on the mount and to the hydraulic system. Second, take off the bicycle wheel, brake pads, and brake pad springs and small metal caliper hole cover.

The goal is to use the hydraulic pressure to remove each piston and it is a time consuming process but it works. Get 2 C clamps and two pieces of thin 1/8" thick and 1/4" wide metal rods about 8" long that will fit between the caliper holes. Home Depot sells these rods. I've used a pair of 5mm box wrenchs the first time. Form a jig clamp that will hold one of the two pistons in the caliper body using the 2 C clamps and 2 metal rods. Squeeze the brake lever slowly until the non clamped piston completely comes out of the caliper. Brake oil will fall to the ground so make sure you have a small bucket under the caliper.

Take the caliper apart, clean the square O ring,and the groove that the O ring sits in - I use a L shaped ice pick. Reassemmble the now clean half of the caliper, attach to the bike, and bleed. Now, secure the other caliper piston using the 2 C clamps and 2 metal rods. Repeat the process.

I know this is a major pain and long process, but you should be able to reuse all of the parts including the square O rings and pistons thereby saving you $40/caliper in replacement parts.

I tried the air pressure method, but even 180lbs of pressure wouldn't release my siezed pistons from the caliper.

Its pretty easy, but dont rush it first time.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Déjà vu (and still they don't work too well)!

Home Depot sells these rods

Where will I find this "Home Depot" that you talk of