Avid Elixir 5'...
 

[Closed] Avid Elixir 5's

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Just got some brand new Elixir 5's for the Inbred. They come pre-bled but the lever seems awfully close to the bar when you pull the brake on regardless of what you do with the reach adjuster.
My question is, is that normal for Avids? Never used them before.
ta! ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 16/04/2012 9:39 pm
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As an avid owner I'd say they need bleeding (my, 'ready bled' elixirs did...)
[url=

useful video....[/url]


 
Posted : 16/04/2012 9:49 pm
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Make sure you take care and de-gas the fulid in both syringes. Take some time over this as it really helps the bleed. Otherwise the bleed proceedure is pretty simple once you get your head around it.


 
Posted : 16/04/2012 10:00 pm
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From merlin per chance?


 
Posted : 16/04/2012 10:00 pm
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They're all like that from new, every set i've come across has been(and we're running into thousands now). First thing to do is remove the pads, re-fit one, brace the disc against it with a small screwdriver,then squeeze the lever until the free piston comes out a bit further than normal. Push that piston back in and repeat for the other, and you will have exercised the pistons and removed their stickyness. Next they'll need to be bled properly, when you think there's no air give it another 20 quick strokes and hold the vacuum- you'll probably suck another shedload out, repeat until there's no more.Once that's done, careful caliper alignment is key, rotor needs to be straight and central, both pads need to hit it dead square and exactly at the same time, if they don't then you'll be flexing the rotor, which can cause a spongey feeling (amongst many other negative effects such as squealing, juddering, sticking pistons, and uneven pad wear).


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 7:30 am
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FWIW, both of my sets of Elixir 5's have been bang on straight from the plastic bag they came in.

But I'd say a bleed is in order for yours


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 8:00 am
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Bought the wife some Elixr 1s from ebay as they were sillyu cheap. Levers are fairly close to bar but they feel fantastic, so she doesn't want me fiddling with them in case I make them worse...


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 8:09 am
 Grim
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It is worth checking to see if there is air in there by pumping the brake several times in quick succession. If the lever is further from the bars when you finish there is probably air in there and a bleed is needed. If not coatsey's technique of getting the pistons a bit further out is the answer.
PS the Elixir 5's on my bike were spot on from the start.

Grim


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 8:17 am
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Did you have to cut the lines down? My Elixer 5's needed bleeding as the lines were ridiculously long so needed cutting down. They're a doddle to bleed though

so she doesn't want me fiddling with them in case I make them worse...

Ah... someone else who's bike maintenance skills are held in the same high regard as my own. Now, where's my hammer? ๐Ÿ˜€


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 8:46 am
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[b]Grim[/b] - [u]Member[/u]

[b][u]It is worth checking to see if there is air in there by pumping the brake several times in quick succession. If the lever is further from the bars when you finish there is probably air in there and a bleed is needed.[/u][/b] If not coatsey's technique of getting the pistons a bit further out is the answer.
PS the Elixir 5's on my bike were spot on from the start.

Grim

Just out of interest, why does this work? My front Deore does the same thing, particularly so if I've just had the bike flipped upside down for any reason, a minute or so of 'pumping' has the lever feeling great again. I thought I'd bled them OK but apparantly not, I'm just confused as to [i]why[/i] this method works (which it clearly does) as surely the trapped air can't actually escape from the system with everything done up and sealed?

Apologies for the thread hijack moocow ๐Ÿ˜ณ


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 9:03 am
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the Elixir 5's on my bike were spot on from the start.

^^ this


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 9:19 am
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I've owned 3 sets of elixir 5's, all from merlin, have been perfect since fitting, love them.


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 9:30 am
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Thanks for all the responses guys.
I'm wary of bleeding brakes I must say.....tried it on my previous Hayes Strokers and ended up with brake fluid all over the kitchen and a brake that was way spongier than when I started......and my missus was not at all impressed with the state of the units!
Might LBS it if that needs done. The rears are already there having the hose shortened as the hose it came with was at least foot too long....if that was built with an 'average' frame in mind I dunno wot sort of gate-like bikes they must ride!
๐Ÿ˜€


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 10:40 am
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Just out of interest, why does this work? My front Deore does the same thing, particularly so if I've just had the bike flipped upside down for any reason, a minute or so of 'pumping' has the lever feeling great again. I thought I'd bled them OK but apparantly not, I'm just confused as to why this method works (which it clearly does) as surely the trapped air can't actually escape from the system with everything done up and sealed?

On 'normal' brakes with the reservoir above the master cylinder (hope mini lever, shimano etc) the air normal sits in the reservoir quite happily (look in a car or motorbike, theres usualy not even a seal there, just a screw on cap and plenty of air). When you turn it upside down or shake it up this air can get in the hose, pumping the lever draws it back into the reservoir.

Avid's and some others dont have a conventional reservoir, just a bladder inside a chamber that can expand so in theory there's no air to mix.


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 10:49 am
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If you follow that youtube video then bleeding avids is a piece of the proverbial!


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 10:52 am
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Avid bleed is easy to do, bit long-winded until you get used to it but easy enough.


 
Posted : 17/04/2012 10:52 am