Damn m*r f**g bearings wont come out of the piece of s**t frame! 😡
And breathe. Right, i'm replacing the 18month old bearings from my Commencal Meta 4X frame. The rocker linkage bearings cam out no problem, but there is no way in hell the bearings in the main pivot or the ones on the seatstay are wanting to move.
I have removed both bolts on the seatstay bearing but the axle that runs through them just wont budge... at all. I've beaten them as hard as i can with a mallet and all that happens is the bolts i've use as a drift bends.
And as for the main pivot bearings, argh! I've removed the non drive side big ass bolt and using a socket that sits on the axle as a drift i've beaten the living s**t out it aswell with no results.
What the hell am idoing wrong?
I'm not familiar with the bike, but are you sure you don't need a proper bearing puller/removal tool? Might need properly pressing back in too?
Basically the same set up as all the meta frames. Having read the guide the axles should come out easily after an initial clout with a mallet. But mine just wont budge.
The bigger problem is they really really need replacing, so just leaving them isn't an option..... GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
1) wear ear defenders
2) use a real hammer
I'm using my biggest mallet i have. I'm not bothered about my hearing but i am bothered about f*****g the frame or axle
be really careful, a chap on COC bent the swing arm doing this. A bearing puller might be a better option
The annoying thing is that the older model had allenkey bolts which you could simply loosen and the bearings would push straight out. They removed this to improve stiffness. Why the hell didn't they just instead spec them all to use a Maxle instead (and in doing so actually fix the problem) seeing as they already make the required kit. Stupid.
I'm using my biggest mallet i have.
in my lexicon, a mallet is made out of wood or rubber. A hammer is metal. Ear defenders because if you hit hard enough it will make a really loud noise, which makes my ears ring.
I'm not familiar with the frame either, so no advice from personal experience, but I would first soak the bolt in WD40 or similar. GT85 is not similar and is, IMHO, inadequate as a penetrating oil.
Then support the other side of the frame/ bearing when you clout it, use a socket or piece of tube to allow the bolt to move.
I'd be happy to help if you're in the Bath area.
Tim- thanks for offer, but i'm in halifax. Don't have any WD40 at the moment, will get some or plus gas tomorrow and try that.
Retro- had read about that guy trashing his frame which is why i'm afraid to hit it harder. Supporting the other side on blocks of wood to try and stop the frame bending.
My frame has the allen bolts that hold the bearings in, but i think the main axle has fused to the inner race of the bearings.
Simon-You're right, i was mistaking mallet with lump hammer.
Diagnosis sounds about right. I have had success, on delicate car bits in similar conditions, using a hairdryer or hot air gun to warm everything through. Just be careful of the paint.
Good luck
I thought that only worked if the two metals were different and so expanded/shrank at different rates. But i may try it anyway.
Cheers
but i think the main axle has fused to the inner race of the bearings.
if this is the case, you should still be able to bash it out, but the inner race on the hitting side will be carried through the frame with the axle, and you'll have to use a puller to remove the outer race once the axle is out. You won't damage the frame provided you support it directly around the axle area.
(Mr MC posting)
again no experience of that frame but if you cant get a dedicated bearing puller, I have replaced bearings in all sorts of stuff (old Hope hubs, FSRs, Giants, Konas, I-drives...) using a large (12" or more) G-clamp and various size sockets.
i gave up using hammers/mallets to get bearings out years ago out of mechanical sympathy, even with ear plugs!
Don't know if you've managed to do this yet, but I did the same job a few weeks back on my Meta 4X. I found that on the main pivot bearing, if you left one of the large end caps in place on the tube you could put a drift through the middle from the other side (in this case a suitably sized socket with extension bar) and knock out the whole central tube assembly without touching the frame. Obviously the frame has to be supported clear of the ground. The pivot tube should come out either with or without the bearings in place. You can then knock any remaining bearing out of the frame or off the tube, depending on were they ended up.
Luckily my seatstay bearings came out relatively easily, once again with a socket and extension bar as a drift.
Keep the large main pivot bearings as they are useful for drifting the smaller bearing out on, as the smaller bearing fit inside them perfectly.
A 4" G-clamp worked great for pushing the new bearings (Enduro Max from the US) back in, using the old bearings as spacers.
Hope this helps, if you haven't already managed to do it.