[Closed] Any reason I shouldn't buy an older Nomad?

No, it'll be a perfectly good bike for 99% of all riders. We just like to buy into the hype surrounding new bikes being so much more amazing (even if we pretend we don't).

Tom Kp

Just keep in mind the cost of changing the bearings on the nomad - eye wateringly expensive.

I still run my mark 1 (think it is a 12 frame bought in 13) It is plenty of bike for UK riding and for the Alps, I run a 180 domain when in France and 140 pike for trail centres.

Cant say I've had much trouble with bearings, still on a few of the originals. The older version doesn't have grease ports so you will have to pop the axles out occasionally ( annually for me) and re grease.

They are pretty short, only reason I'd part with mine is if I'm honest it is a little too short for me now I've been riding lots of road and large 29ers

Hadn't considered bearings etc, how much we talking and how often? and I take it they are easy to get??
Good point zero cool.

I had a set of bearings in my mk2 Nomad, first ones were free, I think the second ones were supposed to be but I went for the pro pack, £40 I think from Stif, I'm not sure that was eye watering, and I'm from Yorkshire.

Bearings on the mk2 àre adjustable if you get play, about £35 for a set on Stif cycles if you need to replace. The carbon link is expensive if you need to replace that but unlikely if it's been looked after. Lower link bearings can seize if not pumped with grease regularly as they're in a vulnerable place. Great do it all bike! Put 180mm Totems on it for the Alps, Lyriks for mincing on the South Downs

How much is a well specced 26" wheeled Nomad going for these days?

Had my MK2 since 2008 (so don't know what they're on about above?) two sets of bearings since new, when I do replace them I buy the complete kit with axles etc from Jungle - I have the removal and fitting tools which make the job a doddle (not cheap though!).

I've been toying with "upgrading" to 650b but all the bikes I've tried have underwhelmed me and do not appear to justify the cost of changing, they're definitely different but not sure they're better.

The Nomad copes with everything I can throw at it from day rides through to trail centres and big jumps at wharncliffe.

It's got Van 36's (springs) and a DHX 5.0 ti spring all weighing in at 33lb but rides a lot lighter.

Get one, you won't regret it!

cyclelife - http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en/de/node/416

maybe you have a mk1 ?

Although I wouldn't do 35in/lbs as this almost locks mine, finger tight is enough

The bearings are in fact angular contact bearings that can be preloaded, so therefore adjusted...

I'm not sure the MK2 came out till 2010?, The bearings have pinch bolts and collets to nip up any slack in the bushes and two grease nipples on the bottom link that you pack out with grease.

As the frame moves it wears the bearings creating knocking, you nip the axles up to take up to take the slack out. I think the Only tools you need are two Allen Keys, and some threadlocker.

Had all 3 generations.mk 1 with the hump eats bearings and is wobbly in the granny ring, but is otherwise a riot. Mk2 is a bit more sedate all round. Mk 3 by far the best. If your budget is low I would look at a second hand mk2 or an alpine 160 (a tad heavier but rides better and is more reliable) not sure you could get any for much less than an alu capra with 650b though.

Munkyboy being very charitable; Mk1 eats bearings (got 9 months of irregular riding out of mine) at 90 quid a set, and in granny climbs like a dog with a broken back.
Dream bike became biggest disappointment in 20 years of MTB.

Replaced mine with an Alpine 160 funnily enough.

Weren't The bearings free for Life? Mine were, i only paid for the Pro Pack, Which were prob the standard ones but annodized black,

My mate bought mine and i took it back last year to get FREE Bearings?

Mines definitely a MK2 but just checked when I bought it, it was December 2009 and was shipped over from a bike shop in New York. The above explains the bearing installation instructions being very particular on not over tightening the axles - thanks for the heads up. No play in mine - ever, so I must have fitted them correctly.

Xyeti- not on Mk1 I don't think (and not to second hand buyers at any event). Almost as if SC thought they had to address the issue with later models.

CrashTest, Yes i believe that was probably the case, Too much warranty so a free for life bearing replacement became standard, as you said thats OK until you are buying used.

Still, great bike, i'd have one any day over an orange.

Here's some more info about the bearings, useful video link too, worth knowing if you have a mk2

https://thelazyrando.wordpress.com/2011/11/16/adjusting-santa-cruz-vpp-bearings/

ok, some food for thought there then, and a bit of a mixed bag in terms of opinions.
Cheers

Didn't Push do an aftermarket linkage for it that improved the rear suspension?

Tom KP

They did a link to make the mk2 more like the mk1. Don't know the result but more floppy in the mid stroke probably to make it better in the down.

Demoed the Mk2 (carbon) vs the Alpine 160 of the same year, Nomad was night and day the better bike.

On the bearing front my 2013 Blur LTc has done 4 bearings in 2 1/2 years of varied conditions, with the right bearing puller you only need to buy the bearings and it's not a tough job.

A mate is just replaced his older alloy one with a newer alloy (the 12mm version) loves them and rides everything on it.

I went the other way, demo'd just about everything in the 140-160 market 4 years ago and settled on the Alpine 160. It's still going strong and not in a rush to trade it in. Only had it's first hearing change last year (£20, a hammer and block of wood).

lifetime guarantee on bearings: I've had 2 sets so far for the Tallboy.

Lifetime warranty on SC bearings (assuming you're buying it new), but you might have to pay the labour if your dealer fits them for you.
Also lifetime warranty on 2015 frames onwards.

The upper pivot point cracked on the large mk1-1.5 frames. The upper link would foul on the weld of the clamshell top tube.

I had a medium mk1.5, it rode alright, didn't particularly have an issue with bearings. Top tube was short and it was quite heavy. I sold it for near enough what I had in it and bought a canyon spectral which I get on with much better but I do miss the SC build quality.

Well the spanner has been thrown in the works now for sure. Started looking more closely at the Alpine 160 and may well try and pick one of those up. Like that agricultural look also.

Kept my mk1 Nomad that I'd always coveted and wanted to like for 9 months. Had the Alpine that replaced it for coming up to 5 years now.

Later Nomads had less extreme linkage ratio changes, the MK 1 blew thru mid travel, though I did manage to tune most of that out on the DHX Air it came with (needed extreme settings in the piggy back IIRC).