Fairly old hope xc rear hub and its started to feel a bit ropey so decided to stripand put new bearings in.Unable to get the shaft to move after lots of taps with wood and a hammer(I know I should get a proper nylon hammer).
Am I hitting it the right way?
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Thats going nowhere with a bench under the otherside. And whats wrong with a sledge hammer?
Drop an old bolt/screw in the axle to protect it & then whack it with a proper hammer
As he says, rest the centre of the hub in that gap, then smack firmly with a rubber mallet/wood, don't use a metal hammer as you may damage the end of the axle.
he's got it over an hole aint he
Thats going nowhere with a bench under the otherside
I assume he's lined the axle/spindle up with one of the holes in the workbench (black and decker workmate....?)
😀
I took mine appart for the first time last week, didnt change bearings, but can offer a little advice on re fitting the freehub, I held all the pawls in place on the freehub with a rubber band and inserted it into the hub and then just snap off the rubber band before pushing it home...
Looks like you've got the axle in a hole in the 'bench' yes?
Well, that hole needs to be bigger then the bearing as it's the bearing you want to move, isn't it? 🙂
it'll still jam when the bearing gets to the bench, but yes in essence that's how to do it. I know you;re afraid but you really do have to use some force when it's seized
I just did this last week and couldn't get it out with a wooden mallet, so used the bolt in the axle technique as above and smacked it with a hammer, came out a treat. I am currently looking at new bearings, is it worth buying high quality NSK or similar bearings or just using the cheaper ones you can get from a bearing supplier?
All correct assuming, as PP says, the hole in the bench will allow the bearing to pass.
You need a proper percussive tool and to hit it markedley harder than you think you should.
😉
Yep got it over the hole just to get it started, then will move over to the gap.
Goes to find a bolt to fit down the axle.......
disc rotor bolts are the perfect size
It's best to use ear defenders as the noise is loud and masking it allows you to hit it harder 🙂
disc rotor bolts are the perfect size
yes, but one you probably won't want to reuse...
Done that and now sorted now to get the bearing out of the freewheel any ideas is it a case of tapping from the non drive side.
Thanks for the help so far!
Rich
is it worth buying high quality NSK or similar bearings or just using the cheaper ones you can get from a bearing supplier?
I have had experience of cheaper bearings not having fine enough tolerances i.e. there is play after fitting them to the axle. Might have been one dodgy bearing, but it's something to be aware of
Done that and now sorted now to get the bearing out of the freewheel any ideas is it a case of tapping from the non drive side.
In my experience buying a new freehub saves a significant amount of swearing at this stage 😉
Ah, the perfect post! I was planning on doing this at the weekend. Rather than use the piece of wood and bench technique, i thought i might get the tool set from hope. Does anyone know whether the [url= http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/38/httpro2/hope-pro-2-hub-tool-kit-complete.html ]Hope Pro 2 hub tool kit[/url] also works for XC hubs? I've got both and don't really want to buy two sets of tools if it's not needed
Is there two bearings in the freehub with a spacer getting a bit nervous now as I,m getting into unknown terrority.
Postierich - diagram of the xc hub is [url= 
]here[/url]
Yes, 2 bearings in freehub, outer one can be drifted out using the end of a screwdriver on the inner race, need to move the spacer across to get access, once outer is removed the inner one is held with a circlip.
Yes rich, two bearings and a spacer. If you havewn;t seen it yet, this is the best guide I've found
http://mountainbikerides.co.uk/fettling/hope_hub.htm
Don't forget the inner bearing has a circlip holding it in place that you need to take out before you try to whack itout
Cheers Julian goes to search for some circlips I know I have lost 😕
PS don't be alarmed by the effort required to drift out the freehub bearings
In my experience buying a new freehub saves a significant amount of swearing at this stage
can I have your old one please ?
**** me!!!! unable to get the screw driver on any kind of lip,one bloody thumb all ready and the suns beating down 😥
Done it yet Rich?
tip- 1 1/8th steerer tube cut off is samesize ish as outer race for whacking new ones in. And use grease everywhere.
[i]Done it yet Rich?[/i]
No watching ceebeebies now will try again in a minute.
The freehub bearings can be a pain to remove and fit!
To remove, lever the spacer to one side to make it easier to remove the 1st bearing. After you've removed the circlip, bash the 2nd bearing out of its seat, then have fun trying to get it started/past the 2nd bearing seat where the 1st bearing used to sit!
Tip on installing freehub bearings:
Once you've installed the 1st bearing and circlip, slide the freehub onto the axle and check and double check that you have installed the correct spacer that goes between the bearings, install the final bearing using the axle as a guide. This makes the installation of the 2nd bearing lots easier and insures that the 2 bearings are aligned properly. Don't over do bashing the final bearing in, as its easy to knock it in too far causing side loading and a none too smooth bearing!
Remember to refit the spacer between the freehub and hub.
Have fun.
I know you're past the problem in the original post now, but for reference, if the axle doesn't move easily I always use a 3 arm puller hooked round the spoke flange to force it out (with a penny between the shaft of the puller and the end of the axle).
Hitting the axle with any kind of metal hammer is a complete no-no
Oh my god,why are the "look so simple jobs" a pain in the ass,first bearing out and spacer plus circlip,now the final bearing feels smooth and grease looks ok ish but have tried to take the last one out but chickened out when it neared the lip as it needs to be bang on straight when extracting and im bodging it with the "not right" tools.
Sits down and has another cuppa.........
nice to know I've been there, done that, bought the t shirt and found it as big a pain as you 😆
I use a nine inch nail, rather than a screwdriver, they have to lip to work with. That and a big hammer.
I never understand the problem people have refitting freehubs, hold pawls in with thumb, index and second finger, twist and shove home, refit endcap, done.
I love working on XC's, so easy to look after if you have circlip pliers.
"have tried to take the last one out but chickened out when it neared the lip as it needs to be bang on straight when extracting and im bodging it with the "not right" tools"
Well you've got to change it now as bashing away at the inner race will probably have done some damage to the bearing.
Just get it done man! You've got the same tools as everyone else probably - old screwdrivers, bits of metal and a hammer. Only remotely specialist bit of kit you might find useful is a vice to hold the freehub while you knock out the old inner bearing and install the new inner bearing. To install use an imperial socket fractionally smaller than the bearing outer diameter (I forget which size it is) with an extension bar fitted, this will help you to keep it square while you tap it in.
I use some washers and a QR to drive the new bearings in.
I have heard it said that pouring boiling water over the parts to be removed helps them move initially.
Done.....after 4 cups of tea
Thank you to every one that led me on the right path to keep me going I could not have done it without you!!!
Look out for tomorrows installation thread.
Rich
a spark plug socket is the ideal drift for installing bearings.
Heat the ruddy hub! tie a rag around it and pour a kettle of boiling water over it - it turns a tricky job into an easy one 90% of the time.
Freeze the new bearings as well.
AS TJ says, if you freeze the new bearings first they drop in beautifully!
Spark plug... Check
Freezer.... Check
Bearings... Not yet!
And I,ve managed to deform a spring so need to sorce some now.
Anyone got a spare?
Probably have.
[i]scruff - Member
Probably have.[/i]
Can you leave it behind the 4th tree down on the righthand side of a random cheeky trail on the Chase!
Ta
You can buy new springs for the Pawls.
I rebuilt an XC Hub recently with cheap bearings, all seemed good on the bench, however when the wheel was bolted into the bike, everything tightened up and the freewheel wouldn't freewheel.
I haven't rebuilt it with quality bearings as its an old wheel I keep as a spare.
The only other time I rebuilt the hub was using Hope bearings and it all worked a treat.
I did replace the axle as well, maybe it hadn't been machined correctly?
Doug
Id you put the internal spacer in? Schoolboy error 🙂 No reason 'cheap' bearings would lock up when the wheel is in the frame if everything had gone together properly and the bearings where the right size. Going graunchy v quick maybe ...
when the wheel was bolted into the bike, everything tightened up and the freewheel wouldn't freewheel.
I bought a "just serviced"* pair of Hope hubbed wheels off the classifieds which were in this state. They were cured by seating the bearings properly (ie good and hard).
* When "just serviced" actually means failing to put seat the new bearings properly and completely screwing the freehub bearings to boot... they were my last classifieds buy 😉
I rebuilt an XC Hub recently with cheap bearings, all seemed good on the bench, however when the wheel was bolted into the bike, everything tightened up and the freewheel wouldn't freewheel.
Sounds to me like you mixed up the spacers. The spacer in the freehub is not the same size as the spacer the separates the freehub from the body. Been there, done that, had to strip and rebuild again to get it working
set of 3 pawl springs about £1.50!
I seen on older hubs they sometimes snap in half where they thin out due to rubbing
I just picked up set of Hope XC hubs on Mavic 521 rims for a bargain price on ebay, the seller said the rear bearings were a bit rough, which was an understatement to say the least, the hub had been abused and forgotten and the bearings corroded onto the axle and hub. Took me several days to get the bearings out.
Step 1 prepare a handy tool to support the hub
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Step 2 slide a washer or old bushing on a M5 bolt and place in the end of the axle to protect it from the blows from the 2lb lump hammer.
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That used to be a philips head, gives some idea of the bashing that was required!
Step 3 when it doesn't shift soak it in penetrating fluid for 2 days.
Step 4 when that doesn't work, spray verucca freezing spray down the hole in the axle to chill it so it shrinks and slides out of the bearings.
step 5 discover the whole lot was so corroded because the drive side oil seal was completely worn out, as were the o-rings in the axle endcap spacer thingammyjigs.
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Rich you sorted? PM me if you need springs or wotnot and I'll take a look in my bits box later, pretty sure I got some. Can take em out tonight, meeting as normal.
The right thing to do in this situation mate (or at least in my case is :-
Pick up phone
Dial +44 (0) 1282 851200
Speak to nice lady and arrange a service
Post to hope
Pay £17.50 (IIRC) plus a bit of postage
Receive a few days later a fully serviced and as good as new hub.
Job done.
Alright if you can afford it, the 4 bearings off Ebay cost £2.40 and the oil seal from CRC at £1.99 works out less than it would have cost to post to HOPE.
4X 6001-2rs bearings £14.90 (not skf that I ordered but of similar quality) are now in the freezer, will attempt pressing in an hour.
Is it normalbearing grease to use to press the bearings in or us copperslip?
Rich
Scruff if you could bring some with you that would be cool,no motor @ the minute so will be heading out from Longdon!
I never grease the bearings when fitting.
The bearings giving me a problem are the freehub ones,light grease and first frozen bearing inserted whacked several times seems it will not go past a certain spot about 5mm from the lip stainless its flaking its getting that much abuse (bearing stilll smooth).
if it goes in on even slightly on the piss it can wedge?
one reason to get a shop to do it, not because they have the proper tool, but if they balls it up, they have to buy you a new one 😉
good luck!
ive got to do my Pro2 some time soon it would seem.
will try the freezer trick, never thought of that before....
Well obviously, to get the inner freehub bearing in, you have to drive it past the outer bearing seat first.
Threaded bar and washers might be easier than smacking it with a hammer, difficult to do it evenly.
Job done I had it in all the way did not realise there was supposed to be a gap in the freehub body!!!!!
Just need a pawl hopefully Scruff will have one tonight when we cross paths.
i thought it would be a good idea to strip my pro2 while walking around the garden last night (my mind was in a bit of a mess)
yes, freehub removal, while on the move over wood chippings!
i now have 3 pawls.
cock.
oh well, spare wheel for the weekend....
rich (or anyone else in the know): if ive paid for next day postage, and the item didnt come next day, but was dispatched on time by the poster (betd) who do i talk to about getting my 7 quid back!?
x