The Slackline and the BFe are the same weight - not light but not heavy!
23" short TT on an 18" frame?
It looks pretty versatile to me and plenty suitable for a dual ring set up.
FTFYThe Slackline and the BFe are the same weight - [b]heavy! [/b]
It looks pretty versatile to me and plenty suitable for a dual ring set up.
Yeh maybe, just seems like you're completely missing the point of it building it up with a 2x9 to be good for climbing and all day riding.
Looks like an awesome frame though, I'd have one but not for what the op describes.
Ragley Ti going cheap on CRC right now.
I'd like to get a good look at the slackline Ti for sure.
I have a bad feeling that it's going to be a £1500 job though, which would be a real shame.
None of those ragleys in stock though is there?
Unfortunately not unless you are a giant.
Chumba HX1.
Been riding mine for about 2 weeks now. I'd been riding a p7 for a few years and loved it but just fancied a change, and at 300 quid for a brand new frame I thought I'd risk it. Well, what a difference. It's obviously lighter in the just pick it up and see test. The thing just goes where I point it in a more direct controlled way. It doesnt have any of the harshness you might associate with an alu hardtail either. Looks nice too.
The Slackline and the BFe are the same weight - heavy!
Why don't you recommend something then? Writing negative shite about other peoples bikes is all good and well, but after a while it gets old.
Try something new for a change, you never know people might think you are actually more than a grumpy old **** (insert appropriate smiley)
Very short chainstays, short top tubes etc
Slackline has a 24" virtual top tube, not short for an 18".
Ok. how about a Giant XTC without a stupid long fork and stop pretending you're hardcore and ever actually need a slack h/a or massive suspension on your all day rides?Why don't you recommend something then?
Slackline has a 24" virtual top tube, not short for an 18".
I thought it was 23" a minute ago?
Ive just seen some pictures of them and they look like a great jump/play bike, but not one for doing all day rides with lots of climbing involved.
GW - you come over as a complete ****t
rode the stanton myself the other week and i must admit i was impressed
Was it Jon's slackline you rode?
I rode one with 1x9 setup and found it perfect... Just need to find the cash from somewhere and i'm getting one (once the enduro frame is sold).
How did you find it rotary? I thought it was really nimble and amazing downhill
I thought it was 23" a minute ago?Ive just seen some pictures of them and they look like a great jump/play bike, but not one for doing all day rides with lots of climbing involved
I was thinking of buying one and spoke to Dan Stanton about the sizing. He told me it is 24" virtual. That they haven't change it on the site is a mistake IMO.
I dunno anway, most people on here dont have a ****ing clue. They think a Dialled alpine frame is just the same as one of them Evils cos it hasa seat tube brace.
Regardless, people just buy what looks nice and then tend to sell it soon afterwards cos they realise it isnt quite for them.
for suggesting an Xc hardtail to do this?:you come over as a complete ****t
[b]"One that can be ridden all day and deal with the sketchy bits 130-140mm also not too heavy needs to be able to climb, any ideas? [/b]
or for pointing out that any hardtail approaching 5.5lb for a bare frame in the smallest size is clearly not "not light, not heavy" but in actual fact heavy?
😆
How the **** do you know if he's hardcore or not GW?
And since when has need had anything to do with riding bikes?
FFS, if you have nothing constructive to add STFU.
i'm sure every frame suggested can be ridden all day, but can deal with the 'sketchy bits' a lot better than your suggestion of an xtc. i have owned an xtc, whilst being nice on flat stuff was very harsh and not much fun on steep stuff. i think your general attitude to other people on this forum is wrong.
And since when has need had anything to do with riding bikes?
needs to be able to climb
Cheap shot DT.
Back in your box Taylforth, you are thinking of buying a tourer! 😛
Back in your box Taylforth, you are thinking of buying a tourer!
😆
I'd dissagree, What exactly do you think makes an XTC less capable in sketchy bits? I'd know I'd rather ride one of those than some heavy, massive forked ropey steel thing.i'm sure every frame suggested can be ridden all day, but can deal with the 'sketchy bits' a lot better than your suggestion of an xtc.
stand up more then!i have owned an xtc, whilst being nice on flat stuff was very harsh
that's you, not the bike! they're perfectly stable and very manouverable on steep stuff (I didn't say it has to be set up with a 100mm+ stem)and not much fun on steep stuff.
and your attitude is right? how so?i think your general attitude to other people on this forum is wrong.
you bunch of tarts! 😉
Drooled over those Slacklines for a bit. Looks near enough a perfect mountain bike for me, but just a bit too pricey. Definitely a playful child, but with 10 gears, there'd be something wrong if you couldn't ride it all day. Not like it has square wheels or wah. Get a large and if you don't like i'll swap it for a summer season. ;D
OP, you've a ton of choices on this and they'll [b]all[/b] do what you want. What do you like the look of?
GW 😀
Cotic Soul does seem to be the most appropriate in my opinion, owners say it has a lovely supple ride which helps with the 'all day' part of the OP's requirements....hardcore?....it takes 140mm forks, how much more than that do you need?....any more and you need to go full suspension in my opinion.
Granted its not as slack as some other suggestions on here but do we all really need 65 degree head angles and bikes that ride like Choppers?
I'd also say research the build and find some reviews before purchasing....accepted wisdom is that steel is comfortable, aluminium is harsh and titanium is perfect....problem is titanium is a bugger to work with and there seems to be loads of failures reported on this forum with titanium framed bikes.
Aluminium can produce a nice flexy, springy, steel-like ride if done properly....the seat and chainstays on my aluminium Kona are beautifully narrow and the ride is superb....likewise there are some seriously hardcore steel bikes with virtually no give in them whatsoever and will feel like you're riding a pneumatic drill all day.
Browse the CRC site, they are virtually giving frames away at the moment....find one you like (or priced right) then visit the manufacturers website to check the angles etc...its what i did with the Kona and things have worked out better than i'd hoped....i would post a pic in the 'Beautiful Hardtails' thread but its not niche or single speed and only has 100mm forks so would only get mocked by the STW massive!
'Heavy' is relative. When a tough steel frame results in a build only 2.5lbs heavier than a very light XC race frame with the same parts then is that heavy? I mean OMG a 'hardcore hardtail' that's 10-20% heavier than a race bike, you'd have to ride it naked and waterless to overcome its immense mass when climbing hills...
I can't even be bothered to address GW's moronic comments regarding appropriate geometry - clearly he's far too good a rider to appreciate the benefit of less steep head angles when you have less perfect skills and are riding testing terrain.
[b]djglover[/b] - Member
Any number of ubiquitous old tiawanese scaffold poles will do the job. Just pick the one with the prettiest stickers
You speak the truth.
pointing out that any hardtail approaching 5.5lb for a bare frame in the smallest size is clearly not "not light, not heavy" but in actual fact heavy?
5.5lb isn't heavy for a steel framed bike - mtfu.
I'd love to hear you try 😉I can't even be bothered to address GW's moronic comments regarding appropriate geometry
having simultaniously owned 2 hardtails with almost identical geometry except for head angles (one 70deg H/A and the other a 63deg) I can actually say slack H/A really don't matter too much on hardtails when riding very steep/technical terrain. a short easily manouverable frame, low BB and stable (non-divey) fork are more important. if going flat out fast over rough terrain is your bag, the slacker H/A does increase stability but if like 99% of blinkered (moronic?) overly long forked hardtail riders your riding actually consists of just sitting down for most of your bog standard XC/trail centre rides how could I ever expect you to understand this? 😕- clearly he's far too good a rider to appreciate the benefit of less steep head angles when you have less perfect skills and are riding testing terrain.
Quite intrigued as to what two hardtail frames have almost identical geometry apart from a 7 degree difference in head angle.
I can actually say slack H/A really don't matter too much on hardtails when riding very steep/technical terrain
Well that's okay then. Glad you cleared that up. I'll tell brant, cy et el to stop with their funny slack hardtails as they don't matter 😕
HA is only 1 part of what makes a good frame and is just the number of the moment in the same way that it has been chain stay length, bb height, seat angle, etc etc etc at various times in the past.
I like the HX1 anyway
Deviant cheers for the informed advice, seem to have opened a can of worms here but that was not the intention. Just do not want to throw cash away on the wrong frame. Will also look at the cotic soul and the hx1 as they seem to pop up frequently among the replies.
having simultaniously owned 2 hardtails with almost identical geometry except for head angles (one 70deg H/A and the other a 63deg)...
Maybe you should have tried one whose HA was 66.5 degrees instead of comparing really slack with fairly steep?!
I can actually say slack H/A really don't matter too much on hardtails when riding very steep/technical terrain. a short easily manouverable frame, low BB and stable (non-divey) fork are more important. if going flat out fast over rough terrain is your bag, the slacker H/A does increase stability...
My bag is having one MTB and it doing everything I want to do / am capable of doing. A reasonably light, reasonably slack, reasonably strong, reasonably stiff, reasonably compliant hardtail does just that. If I encounter very steep/technical terrain and it's not beyond my mental ability then I want to ride that. If I encounter rough terrain asking to be ridden at high speed then likewise. If I'm riding twisty tight singletrack then ditto. Etc. And that's whether it's 'natural' or trail centre riding. Or races.
but if like 99% of blinkered (moronic?) overly long forked hardtail riders your riding actually consists of just sitting down for most of your bog standard XC/trail centre rides how could I ever expect you to understand this?
Unfortunately you're addressing the wrong 1% - I do most of my riding with the saddle dropped, standing up.
OMG £480.00 for a cotic soul frame just too pricey for my pocket at the moment!!!
I'll repeat myself, 300 quid for a frame that does exactly what you want - the Chumba HX1 - a serious bargain.
have a Identiti (yes I know) AKA. It rides well, not too stiff (compared to my last carbon HT's anyway). Rides really well and climbs fairly good too but descends like my 4x bike and has a real playaround feel!
slack H/A really don't matter too much on hardtails when riding very steep/technical terrain. a short easily manouverable frame, low BB and stable (non-divey) fork are more important. if going flat out fast over rough terrain is your bag, the slacker H/A does increase stability
what about going flat out fast over rough steep technical terrain..? 😀
Having seen the car wreck that is the Chumba forum on MTBR, I would never buy a Chumba. Unfortunately for Si, Oscar and Alan are doing real damage to his business and it feels like a brand which could fold at any moment. Luckily for Si, the Brodies and Canfields are very good brands and bikes.




