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The modern geometry thread has been useful. So geometry experts I call on you again
As you may know my Trek Fuel ex from 2009 is currently soaking in paraffin to see if I can get the bottom bracket out.
But that bike is at the end of it's life even if the bottom bracket comes out the bits would probably be better used building a bike for my grown up son
The only modern bike I have ridden is a Sonder Cortex (66 HA 24.5 SA teach 485mm in my size XL). The fit seemed fine but the suspension didn't seem quite right and the seat tube was a touch short. I was thinking of ordering one but they don't seem to do any rear shock options and I have a couple of other reservation.
I had my eye on a Canyon Neuron which seems to have a near identical back end. This is based on geometry and layering pictures of the 2 bikes in Photoshop. Key number are reach 475mm HA 67.5 and SA 74.5. So it's a but shorter and steeper
The older model is £1850 with GX Eagle, 34mm fox rhythm fork, Fox Float DPS for £1850. The newer model is more money with a less good build. So I feel the need to pull the trigger now. I've been putting off spending the money for a year
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/neuron/neuron-al-7.0/2067.html
Uses would mainly be Woburn (woods single track) and from the door. From the door is more gravel bike or hard tail stuff and I do ride it on gravel bike. But due to cartilage damage in my knee hitting roots stood up on the gravel bike isn't great. Much better on an FS. It would also be used for those Bridleway rides in all the books (Peak Lakes etc.) and Trail centres. Nothing the old bike couldn't do. Nothing gnarr
To conservative a choice or sound compromise?
Final though although I ride a drop bar bike with the hoods lower than the saddle (although not buy much) my back doesn't bend brillianty, so I'm not sure of a reach of over 500mm would work for me
Having ridden the new one and based on your type of riding, I reckon that is a very good choice of bike. Not ridden the previous version so cannot do a direct comparison for you.
Good luck!
Thanks Sanny.I had read that review and found it useful. The older Canyon bike is basically the same geometry but a different shock layout
Canyon have announced today 6-months interest free payments and free delivery on all their bikes.
Now seems like a good time to get one.
The new version has wider bearings and improved shock placement which should reduce stress on the shock and increase service intervals. Old version is obviously cheaper.
The new version has wider bearings and improved shock placement which should reduce stress on the shock and increase service intervals. Old version is obviously cheaper.
If it was just price I might buy the new one. But the newer one comes with Shimano based wheels and a 50-11 Cassette. Rather than Mavis and a 50-10 Cassette
New bikes are never boring.
FACT.
50-10 Cassette
Unless you are sprinting for a podium position I doubt you’ll notice any difference between a 11/10 sprocket.
Also, the frames is what counts - parts are replaceable. Go for the best frame you can.
Also, the frames is what counts – parts are replaceable. Go for the best frame you can.
Ok interesting thought. Thanks
So it turns out they were doing 10% off the base carbon model, so only £200 more than the new Al model. So I get the newer frame and a few other better bits including the ride range cassette and and DT Swiss wheels. Thanks folks
Final though although I ride a drop bar bike with the hoods lower than the saddle (although not buy much) my back doesn’t bend brillianty, so I’m not sure of a reach of over 500mm would work for me
reach is from the pedals to headtube. Any back problems are going to come from the effective top tube length (may not even be stated on the geo charts any more) from the saddle to the headtube.
Steeper seat tubes means that this dimension has not grown along with the reach (although all bikes are different).
(and if you are comparing either of these numbers, remember to include stem lengths)
reach is from the pedals to headtube. Any back problems are going to come from the effective top tube length (may not even be stated on the geo charts any more) from the saddle to the headtube.
Yes it's complicated. I just did some measurements and it looks like I should be fine. But thanks
I was also nervous of going crazy steep on the seat angle as that might change my pedalling in a way my knee doesn't like. Based on the Sonder test ride I hope to be OK