Or too lightweight and liable to be shredded to bits by flint etc? I'm around 95kg fully loaded, so not the lightest of riders... tempted to pick up a pair off the classifieds, but not sure if they're the right rubber for the job so to speak 😕
You're only doing it if it's dry aren't you? - SB8s are what you need
Tyre.
The ProTections are pretty tough, be a good choice I'd say.
You're an XC whippet though Njee... I'm a burly 95kg lad, you reckon they'd be up to the task of getting my through 100+ miles of flinty downs?
IMO if it's dry, something with a thickish, hardish casing and low knobs - ie cheap crap would do fine
DOn't need traction really, just resistance to cuts
1.9, go bigger for comfort if nothing else.
I'd go bigger, something like a 2.2" width. A fatter tyre rolls quicker off road, thin tyres roll faster on road (but there's a weight trade off if you go too wide), check out the schwalbe website for their testing summary.
I second the thick-ish sidewalls comment. Ian Leitch got 6 punctures on his "out" ride with Small Block 8s fitted, and a massive slash in his sidewall.
A Maxxis CrossMark is a good option, used by Mike Cotty on 26" wgeels when he set what was then the SDD record, and by me (in 29er flavour) when I set the SS SDD record.
Hope that helps
[i]SB8s are what you need[/i]
Yep, agree with Uplink
...and coincidentally, I'll be doing it on secondhand SB8s I bought off Uplink back in April
A Maxxis CrossMark is a good option, used by Mike Cotty on 26" wgeels when he set what was then the SDD record, and by me (in 29er flavour) when I set the SS SDD record.
That's a fairly ringing endorsement I'm thinking.... SB8's look pretty heavy at 805g a tire?
528g for my 26 x 2.1 dtc version...guess you're talking about the tubeless version
As I occasionally worry about these things, rather than go on the claimed weight, I actually weighed a pair of 2.1" Crossmarks and a pair 2.1" SB8s and both Crossmarks were under their claimed weight and lighter than both SB8s, which were both over their claimed weight. They were both non-UST and "good" compound.
They were also both 29er versions but this shouldn't make a difference as they'll scale up the same
I used a NN front and RR UST rear when I did it in the summer; could've gone RR both ends, but wanted to ensure that if it rained I'd some grip on the front.
fwiw my small block 8s tend to last till worn ....
conversely my crossmarks didnt even last a ride on the same terrain - cut sidewall central on the rear
Took my SB8s out on the SDW in the week for the first time in ages; got a slash that wouldn't heal with tubless goo......
Rob
[url= http://www.bigrobracing.co.uk ]bigrobracing.co.uk[/url]
That's not good. Doubt you'll be using SB8 again then. I do think the sidewalls seem fairly thin and fragile and can understand how it would be easy to suffer a slash.
It's tricky as my SB8 performed very well when I was out on part of SDW this week...rolled very well with good grip despite being wet in places. Also no punctures (I run them with tubes) despite what looked like extensive strimming before QECP. I guess I got lucky. I want to do the full SDW in the next couple of weeks and I now don't want to change the bike too much but now I'm wondering whether I should change them...probably a case of damned if I do do, damned if I don't.
White Onza Porcs is the only way to go on chalk 
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I'd go for big volume fast rolling tyres with strong sidewalls - would Maxxis High Roller semi slicks or Conti Race King IIs fit the bill?