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[Closed] A question for the engineers / tasty bike mechanics

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[#4009449]

Thinking of fitting a 142 x 12 hub into 150 x 12 frame spacing, using shims to take up the slack
The question is which side of the hub do I shim ?

Any ideas ?


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:10 pm
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Both to keep the wheel central. Would probably need to shim disc mount too so it'll be in correct place in relationship to hub.

Not sure I bother though, probably better off with correct hub.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:17 pm
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What Nixie says, also how are you proposing make the hub wider? New axle required. Suggest new hub and wheel build!


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:19 pm
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Trouble with shimming both sides is the cassette body will be too far left.

To do this properly you'd need to shim the non-driveside and then re-dish the wheel to get the rim central again.

Not worth it imo


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:22 pm
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The hub is an I9 with a 142 x 12 adaptor
Shimming the disc mount is no problem as we are only talking 4mm
Running 1 x 9 so no real issues with chain line
So basically shimming both sides sounds like the right option bar new wheel , hub ect

Sound about right ?


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:27 pm
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It's not chainline you need to worry about though, it's getting your rear mech to work properly.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:28 pm
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Terrible idea. Get a proper wheel.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:30 pm
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So the I cant adjust the rear mech over 4mm to take up the offset ?


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:36 pm
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I'd get 3x2mm and 2x1mm shims. Bound to be able to figure something out


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:39 pm
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I would say both sides to keep it equal.Imo But when i think about it maybe not so good idea to do what ur thinking of. meant to say get the right wheel for the job


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:41 pm
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Right lads lets put the new wheel ect idea right out due to cost
If I could afford a new wheel I wouldn't be asking the question


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:50 pm
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Just to add to this having thought a bit more about it. Because a 142 axle hub is actually a 135mm designed to be supported by the extra bits on either end slotting into the dropout, putting one in a 150mm frame will mean that the hub axle is far from supported properly. This will apply a whole load of incorrect loads on to the maxle (or whatever the 150mm frame uses) and more than likely lead to a rather nice failure.

I really think that this is a bad idea but feel free to try. Just make sure you video it.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:04 pm
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Ok so let me get this right, your plan is to use the standard 142mm hub and axle and then shove a couple of spacers on the end, bend your mech hanger to suit and shim out the disk brake mount?

What is going to support the hub on the axle (Maxle)? you will end up two massive stress poins on the axle (Maxle rather than hub axle) at the end of the 142mm axle between the regular hub ends and the shimms.

I'm gonna guess as the frame has a 150 rear end it is a downhill / hard hitting frame. This is not the type of frame i'd want to have a compramised rear hub assembly on.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:13 pm
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Why not just bung the wheel in as it is, and just let the spring in in the chain/seatstays even the gap out. Like you said, it's only 4mm each side.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:18 pm
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tthew A for effort fella ๐Ÿ˜€

As for you Mr Rusty Mac , pay attention now !

If you have nothing nice to say
Say nothing at all, because nobody like's a un-constructive friday night clever dick

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/clever+Dick


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:34 pm
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Sell one wheel, buy another


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:57 pm
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Right o clive good luck with your bike.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:15 pm
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Thats a good boy rusty , now off to bed fella ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:17 pm
 mboy
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If you have nothing nice to say
Say nothing at all, because nobody like's a un-constructive friday night clever dick

So you ask for help, and when he gives his (honest and very valid) opinion, you tell him to shut up if he can't say anything nice... ๐Ÿ˜•

OK, we'll all stand round in (not very stunned) silence as you ride your bike off with this cobbled together back end, and it fails rather spectacularly.

Sell the wheel you've got, buy another in a 150mm configuration. Unless of course the manufacturer does a proper 150mm conversion kit to suit, that would then enable the hub to be properly located on the rear axle.


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:27 pm
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Mate of yours is he ?


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:34 pm
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yeah, don't listen clive - crack* on

* ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:39 pm
 mboy
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Yeah Clive, we bum each other nightly! ๐Ÿ˜•

NEVER met the bloke (that I'm aware of), what would it matter if I knew him or not? I happen to agree with what he was saying and think he was talking a lot of sense. That is all!


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:42 pm
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what hub is it? as some brands do converters if they don't for that hub then it can be shimmed but wont last long or be safe for that matter. so sorry fella engineering isn't something that can solved with the wave of a magical autocad wand


 
Posted : 25/05/2012 11:48 pm
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I disagree with most of the above. I nice chunky 8mm spacer on the disc side is what you want. You then just need to space the brake calliper 8mm across to meet the disc location. This should give you an approximately zero dish wheel, once you've done the fun job of re dishing it.

You should find the axle actually takes most of the load which is why hope hubs always snap if you use a maxle because they do not support the hub in the correct place. Fitting a spacer to one side is not going to affect where the hub transfers the load to the axle.

You don't end up with wide spaced spoke flanges most 150mm hubs give you, but this is not important.


 
Posted : 26/05/2012 12:02 am
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Sorry but how can agree with the individual in question that two 4mm shims could cause a massive stress point on a 12mm x 150 through axel

4mm not 4 inches, have a look on a ruler and see for yourself how small 4mm is !

you lot are nuts .........

Still I should have known better , back to the classifieds for me


 
Posted : 26/05/2012 12:02 am