I know it was a no no on 3 ring set ups but this is not right surely been having issues with chain jumping off bottom jockey wheel cause a gouge in my cage hard to notice when going uphill in filth.
Bike was shop bought and built , take it,s a case of shortening the chain but how many links will I be able to get away with or do I need a longer cage mech?
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I'd take out a link at a time. In your pics the chain is in big/big and small/small - when I ran a double I avoided these extremes, like I would running a triple.
You need to make sure the drivetrain is within the total capacity of the mech first. (Large rear minus small rear sprocket plus big minus small chainring)
Then the chain line needs to be right and everything nice and straight and true (mech hanger)
If all that checks OK then it should be fine. Also check the B tension screw on the mech.
Looking at the pics if say the chain is one link too long, but I'd need it all in front of me to be sure.
I'm running 11-36 and 26-38 XT setup and it's perfect in every gear. Not sure it would be with a a smaller or bigger front chainring though....
You should be able to get the full range in both, but it looks like you've got quite a short mech on there though.
I would never take it for granted that if it was built in a shop then its correct. Process of elimination. Start with chain length. Compress shock fully and put on large chainring/large cassette cog. If all looks good it might be the rear mech isn't suited to the ratio you run. Common on medium/small cage mech's on full sus bikes with more than one chain ring.
To be fair its a ratio that you wouldn't really use, small chain ring small cassette cog. I have a similar problem on my enduro, but I chose to run a medium mech. My long cage full sus 29er is fine with all 2X10 ratio.
Have a look at this vid:
+1 you should be able to use all.
Looks like taking out one set of links will help and not compromise the large/large combo.
As someone else said, one set of links at a time.
Poor show from builder.
What's that mudguard?
Honestly, don't start taking links out until it "looks ok". You need to measure the chain correctly! When the rear suspension moves it normally increases chain length. Reference Sram or Shimano tech docs for correct chain fitting.
Mudhugger Monkeyf
when I ran a double I avoided these extremes, like I would running a triple.
Same here, you probably should be able to use all (never thought about it as it's never been a requirement), the question I'd be asking myself is, is it good practice given the chainline, I'd say probably not?
Have you tried the 'chain round both big rings without going through the rear mech. Make it tight and add 2 links? That's always worked for me whatever the set up.
With suspension compressed^.
Have had to shorten the chain out of the box on EVERY 1x or 2x 2015 Whyte we've had in stock yet.
I've reported it back to them months ago. Whoever is fitting then at the factory isn't bothering to take the extra links out it would seem!
Otherwise... Fantastic bikes!
The big big is useful as i hate dropping down in to granny gear! in the heat of battle on our wednesday night rides in the dark usually filthy conditions gear choice can be a bit haphazard! 😕
Interesting to know mboy! might get a replacement mech thats been gouged on the cage!
I took enough links out of mine so the body of the mech and the cage we almost in line on big big combo that then worked fine in all gears
Have had to shorten the chain out of the box on EVERY 1x or 2x 2015 Whyte we've had in stock yet.
I'd rather have it that way, a few years ago they were sending out bikes with the chain too short, I accidentally changed into big, big, hit a bump and my XO rear mech exploded into a million pieces.
They did replace the mech and chain for me though.
There shouldn't be too much change with suspension movement on a 4-bar layout, that's part of the point of the layout. Regardless, OP, that chain is way too long. Take out one link (i.e. 1" worth) and see how you go.
stick it back in big/big and see how much that mech will still move upwards to the chainstay.
compress the suspension too.
remove a link or two
dont ever run on small/small the more teeth you are using to achieve a given gear, the less slipping and nasty wear...
Below is a good guide IMO...
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Chain-Length-Basics-2012.html
jeez some bitchin in the comments section!!