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'Accepted wisdom' seems to be that if you have a cross/gravel bike mostly on the road, you're better off with a 2x set up for smaller gear jumps. Makes sense. But, do you not end up crossing the chain pretty often?
I'm currently on a CX 34/46 chainset for road use (but want to make it more gravelly). I feel like changing to a 30/46 would mean I'm crossing the chain quite a bit for average flat road riding. Or do you end up in the big ring more, but higher up the cassette (assuming a broader range than my current 11-28 cassette)?
I'd just change the cassette and see how you go - assuming your derailleur will take it.
Something like 11-32 or 11-34
I've got the 46/31 front, 11/32 rear GRX combo.
I tend to stay in the big ring a lot more and only drop down to the granny when I'm pulling a load up a big hill.
No real world experience but I totally agree. I played with the numbers once and realised that, compared to the 3x9 I run now, my most commonly used gears are around the point where I'd be switching chainrings. Made as it sounds, the 1x option would actually put me in a better gear more often.
I proved it to myself by trying to only use my middle ring. Occasionally missed the extremes but most of the time it was spot on.
Lol! I know exactly what you mean, I have 48/31 and 11-34 at the back. It's an extremely useful range for what I use the bike for (no luggage, not trying to winch up muddy or soft MTB terrain) but I do seem to use the front mech an awful lot!
I guess 46/31 would make more sense, I'd be crossed over just that little bit less
Surely with 1x you’re always crosschaining? So no- I don’t think my 2x GRX means I’m crosschaining more than that 😀
2x is more efficient than 1x by a not insignificant wattage, but my feeling is that I've had most success using a road fd and road chainset - 50/34 or 52/36 and a mix of rear cassettes.
Surely with 1x you’re always crosschaining
Big ring and say 3rd biggest sprocket is probably more crossed than any combo on a 1x?
And it seems to be that area of the cassette where I spend a lot of my time (as does the OP by the sounds of it!).
The perfect setup is probably something bizarre like 47/31 and a 14-36 cassette or something 😂
I’ve got the 46/31 front, 11/32 rear GRX combo
so have I, but mine is Di2 so the SynchroShift is programmed to switch front chainring automatically when it gets near to cross-chaining.
The perfect setup is probably something bizarre like 47/31 and a 14-36 cassette or something 😂
This exactly. Even with a 46 on the road, I never get into the 11 at the back. In fact, I could probably lose 2 of the small cogs happily.
I’d just change the cassette and see how you go – assuming your derailleur will take it.
Short cage mech so no give there (part of a CX race groupset package) and I really want to upgrade to hydro brakes, so new shifters, so may as well do the rest of the groupset.
Think I'm leaning towards 1x, with prob a 40t ring (though I see TA does a 38t which could be useful). Some of the jumps could be annoying, but I deal with it fine on the MTB. And I guess if I went for a 2x GRX left shifter can always leave it unconnected, and there's the option to change as I believe the same cranks take 1x or 2x rings.
Garbaruk do 38t 1x oval rings (possibly round too, I haven't checked) that work with 2x GRX chainsets, that's what I've done on the 'winter gravel' bike i.e. the CX bike 😎
I've also got a 2x 105 shifter, it helps to run a short length of shift cable through the shifter and clamp it against the handlebar with the shifter clamp. If you put a tiny bit of tension on the cable it stops the redundant shifter internals rattling around annoyingly
I’ve also got a 2x 105 shifter, it helps to run a short length of shift cable through the shifter and clamp it against the handlebar with the shifter clamp. If you put a tiny bit of tension on the cable it stops the redundant shifter internals rattling around annoyingly
Top tip!
Shimano need to make some smaller gravel bike chainsets. 46/31 is still a bit big I think, a 44/30 would be plenty and I'd go for 28/42 myself. "Yes, I use small rings and I'm ok with that".
I have an old 10S MTB chainset, 28/40 with an 11-32 or 11-34 rear and it's great - I use the 40 and 7 of the 10 at the rear most of the time and the 30T for steeper climbs on road, a lot of off-road climbs or when loaded. Don't really use the FD that much unless I'm bikepacking or somewhere very up-down and steep. As and when I go 11s I'll stick with the MTB chainset. A 42 is as big as I need with an 11T on the back. I've used a 40 on it and that was fine.
GRX 2x is perfect for me, on my gravel bike and on my audax road bike. Always the right gear for me
OK, plenty on both sides of this one. Inconclusive!
While I'm here though, another question: my current frame (Kinesis Crosslight 5 Disc) has post mount brakes which makes getting new hydros a bit more tricky. Were I to go for a new budget frame set with flat mounts for 65/35 winter road/gravel riding, what would you choose from Kinesis Tripster AT, Sonder Camino AL, or Cotic Escapade?
Really just the same as Jameso here, I've got an old tiagra triple with no outer ring. I run a 28t granny ring and a 42t "big ring". I vary the cassette from 11-36 to 12- 30 depending on whether its winter road riding or summer off road/touring etc.
It works really well, I spend most of my time in the big ring and get an improved chainline as its on the middle of the triple
I use a 2x as a low and high range - so down to the small chainring for any climb and use 5 or 6 gears in the granny ring, big ring for flat and downhill. so very rarely change at the front and never cross chain
I always thought while commuting in London that a 2x1 system would be great. 1 sprocket at the back, 10T difference in a single shift for hills and traffic lights. A bit like dingle speed but less faff changing gear and none of the complexity savings.
@jameso, I've got BNIB XT double chainset, 38/28. Sounds like it might be right up your alley, sir?
I bought a 40 28 for my gravel bike. When I changed the rings i went 38 26. I never miss the top end and generally ride in the big ring. 11 36 at the back
FYI I’m quite heavy and slow
If you're riding on the road
A)get a road bike
B) get a road double 50-34 minimum
C) ride your gravel bike off road, its way more fun than plodding away on tarmac and the gearing makes more sense
B) get a road double 59-34 minimum
Would love to see the front mech that would cover that range.. it would resemble a banana.!!! 😀
Sounds like you need a triple to me 🤣
48/31 and 11-34. I’m almost always in the big ring and the lower 7 sprockets of the cassette, but the 31 and the upper sprockets are there when my legs or knees are shot at the end of a long or hilly ride.
Also useful when hauling luggage up steep stuff or when riding into town and meeting folk and not wanting to arrive sweaty.
I use my front mech an awfully lot on my road bike, it can be annoying on a big ride where I regularly change the front ring then change the rear by one gear to avoid cross chaining. It's this reason that a guy I know went back to a triple. Small ring for climbing, big ring for descending and the middle ring for everything else.
Maybe Shimano will go back to this in ten years time and sell it to us as a new idea 😅
I’m on 48-31, 11-34 and it’s perfect foot what I do, which includes fully loaded bikepacking tours in hilly areas. I spend more time on the big ring without the bags. Perfect combo for me.
@jameso, I’ve got BNIB XT double chainset, 38/28. Sounds like it might be right up your alley, sir?
/Superhero voice "Even a 38 is not too small for me!"
PM details? Might go for it. Cheers.
I always thought while commuting in London that a 2×1 system would be great. 1 sprocket at the back, 10T difference in a single shift for hills and traffic lights. A bit like dingle speed but less faff changing gear and none of the complexity savings.
One of my long term projects that hasn't happened yet is to build up an old lugged road bike with sloping dropouts like this for superlight touring and audax. DT (or ST) shifter and some sort of sprung roller tensioner off the BB. An Alpine singlespeed. One gear for climbing at 8% and one for descending-spinning or riding on the flat at ~17mph.
If you’re riding on the road
A)get a road bike
B) get a road double 50-34 minimum
C) ride your gravel bike off road, its way more fun than plodding away on tarmac and the gearing makes more sense
So tempted to start the usual 'what's a gravel bike for?/ XC 29er is better offroad' sidespin off this RD..
I’ve got an old tiagra triple with no outer ring. I run a 28t granny ring and a 42t “big ring”.
Popular audax option, ideal ring sizes.
Arguably if you're not in a road race or TT once past 42/11 spinning speed on road it's not that energy-efficient to pedal to go any faster, air resistance at speed etc. Fast is fun oc but it seems best overall to tuck rather than pedal on DHs on long rides if you're thinking about pace:energy. It's a bit like learning how to carry speed by riding a singlespeed.
Ive a 1x 12sp 38 11/44 setup. It's ideal for where I live and the sort of 'gravel' riding I do - it won't be ideal for somewhere flatter or with nice smooth gravel fire roads. Good gearing is dependant on the terrain & rider nothing else.
To answer OP: 48/32 and 11-34 here. Ride a mixture of pure road and mucky British "gravel" on it. Usually, I am in the right ring:
- in big ring the majority of the time on tarmac, small ring for climbing, of course; I am heavy and appreciate lower gearing. Watching other riders in the group, I shift chainring much later. Cross chaining rarely an issue - if I end up in big/big I should be in small chainring; little/little just never happens.
- in the small ring most of the time off road, apart from long flattish paths. I usually just shift chainring automatically in the transition from tarmac to dirt, and things work out. It's an off-road switch for me!
48/32 is what the bike came with. I'd be happy with either 46/30 or 47/31 really - there are about two roads I get into 48:11 on round here, and many, many hills where I'm spinning in the bottom.
I'd probably have been 1x if I didn't also want to ride road on it (IE: lived closer to trails, had more bikes). But stepping down from 50-34 worked out nicely for me anyway - that's the upper bound of what I'd personally enjoy on road chainset.
48/31 and 11/34. Works fine for me. I went for the double to cover a bit of everything including some bikepacking. I normally change the rear mech at the same time as dropping the front mech, but then i do this on the road bike too. It all shifts fine so no issue. Di2 would be ace with 2x
I would keep the cranks and get a bigger cassette/derailleur instead. Wouldn't personally want to go any smaller than 46/11 for a max gear on the road.
I run a 1x setup with 44T chainring and 10/36 cassette and this a perfect for me but I don't live in the Peaks. Does Sunday roadie club rides just fine too.
Camino with GRX 2x 48/31 with 11-34 cassette here. I decided to go this route rather than 1x as I use the bike for all sorts, from off-road bikepacking to road riding. It’s the road side that favours 2x as it gives me the range required plus smaller gaps. I also like the ability to do a block change as I crest a hill or hit a climb rather than press, press, press…. If I was mostly off-road then I’d probably go 1x as all my MTBs are.
As others with the same setup have said, it works great. Mostly big ring on road except for steep climbs or when knackered. Cross chaining is no issue with no rub, although I ideally avoid it to reduce wear. It just works. It gives me a high gear the same as a compact setup on a road bike and a low gear that is lower than the 1:1 ratio that is common on off the shelf 1x.
As for the frames you mentioned all would build into a great bike. The Camino is fab. Very adaptable and nice to ride. Mine is a v3 so the newer ones are a bit slacker but have a good rep too.
I'm on a 48/32 FSA gravel crank with an 11-34 cassette and find it's excellent on 700 wheels. I'd want a lower gears if I was loaded, off road touring but been great for loaded road touring and more general, under biked, gravel fun.
I guess it'll really depend what gravel riding is to you - it must vary so much over the country. I tent to average around 22kph on the gravel bike over a mixture of terrain and don't have any issues with cross chaining. Mostly riding on fast cycle paths to escape the city and then hilly gravel tracks with some MTB terrain thrown in.
Shimano need to make some smaller gravel bike chainsets. 46/31 is still a bit big I think, a 44/30 would be plenty and I'd go for 28/42 myself. "Yes, I use small rings and I'm ok with that".
Massive thread resurrection!
I see TA Specialities now do a GRX 2x compatible 44 tooth chainring. I like this as it would stop me going quite so far up the block when on the big ring/ allow me to shift into big ring marginally sooner.
Has anyone tried one? My worry is that I can't slide the front mech far enough down (braze on) to accommodate the smaller diameter of the chainring, I'm at the bottom of the slot already with a 46 tooth ring...
Is a 4mm difference I believe. Are you absolutely bottomed out on the slot? Is there enough room to file the slot a bit lower?
I mostly use the big ring, low gears to set off and higher gears once actually moving, so cross chaining is minimal. Hitting a hill I go down through the cassette to about 3rd and then drop to granny - it is a bit jarring though since the gap is very large, and probably results in me going slower. However I'm normally carrying a load of some sort so if anything bottom gear is not quite low enough.
48/31 and 11-34 here on my slow road bike, works fine for me, if I drop to the small chain ring I usually drop a couple of rings at the back
I'm running a TA GRX 2 28T inner chainring on my GRX600 chain set. It's meant to run with a 44T outer but it shifts fine with the original 46T (although technically this is 2 teeth more than the mech is meant to be able to handle).
I took a couple of links out to prevent slop in small/small (and it'll still shifts into big/big) but this probably isn't necessary & might allow for a slightly bigger cassette too.
11:32 at the back and 28-38 xtr chain set upfront.
Almost always use the 38 unloaded. When loaded the 28 comes into play.
I'm in the right ring more often than I could ever find the right rear cog on a wide range cassette.
11:32 at the back and 28-38 xtr chain set upfront.
Almost always use the 38 unloaded. When loaded the 28 comes into play.
I'm in the right ring more often than I could ever find the right rear cog on a wide range cassette.
^ that.
Except 11-34 and 26-38 (I think!)
My egravel has GRX400 30/46 rings and 11-34 cassette. Given my excessive weight and pathetically weak legs these days, the 30 ring is getting far more use in combination with the motor assist on tarmac,
Massive thread resurrection!
But very timely - I'm looking at a new gravel bike and weighing up the pros and cons of 2x vs 1x. Current gravel bike has 2x (48/34) and I do like it.
I love the 1x on the MTB, just not quite convinced by it on gravel. Sadly it's also quite difficult to find off the shelf gravel bikes with 2x. Canyon do a couple of models.
11:32 at the back and 28-38 xtr chain set upfront.
Not a bad call at all!
But very timely - I'm looking at a new gravel bike and weighing up the pros and cons of 2x vs 1x. Current gravel bike has 2x (48/34) and I do like it.
I'm still window shopping and had settled on 2x (Giant, Canyon and I think Cube all do quite high spec 2x GRX models) but recent rides have had me doubting myself, the rougher and hillier it gets the more I find myself flapping about constantly between little and big rings and ironically seem to be cross chaining an awful lot, one of my original objections to 1x!
A 44/30 chainset would help this whilst allowing me to run a relatively compact rear mech and cassette, rather than going 1x with a dinner plate cassette and robot arm rear mech 🙄
Sadly it's also quite difficult to find off the shelf gravel bikes with 2x. Canyon do a couple of models.
The Sonder Camino comes in 2 x and 1 x GRX flavours. I specced 2 x and get on well with it.