Hi
I've got a 29-er which I have set up as SS at the moment, via a FSA one speed front ring, and a surly chain tensioner (bought the kit from Charlie the BikeMonger), however I really don't have the strength for SS on steep climbs, and I used to enjoy at least having the possibility of making it up, although I do love everything else about the simplicity of SS, so I thought I might try a 1.x9/10 setup instead.
This is where the questions come in, I've read quite a lot about it, but seem none-the-wiser the more I read. Firstly is there any big difference between 1.x10 and 1x9 other than marketing hyperbole? I can't see (other than an extra gear) why it would be that much better, but I'm pretty clueless on gearing ratios, so would love to see if it's worth investing in a 10spd cassette/derailleur rather than just using my old 9spd stuff.
Also I've read so many dissenting views on a chain device, the MRP/SuperStar type thing for XC racing (at the top seems to have a lot of differing views from rubbish to excellent - which is it? IAlso why would some people use a jumpstop then?. 've even read some people aren't using a chain device at all (ideal, but seems magical!).
Once I've decided on my hardware, do I just use the corresponding 9/10spd chain? Do I allow two extra links as per a normal setup? Regarding the chainline, should the chain be straight on a certain sprocket on the cassette or doesn't it matter?
Sorry for the opus, but worth it, if even just a few of these queries are answered.
Thanks in advance.
Hi
I use one of the MRP 1.x devices on my 29er for XC riding and racing. It's excellent and the chain has never come off. Remember on a 29er the gears feel harder, so an 11-34 feels lime an 11-32 on a 26" bike. The benefits of 1x10 are that you can get a nice, light, 11-36 cassette. 12-36 9 speed ones do exist but only in SLX ish level so are quite heavy. I run a 36t ring and find this gives a nice spread of gears, even with a 12-34 9 speed cassette. Assuming you're buying all the transmission parts, you may as well go 10 speed as the ratio differences are smaller so you have a better selection of gears.
As for chainline - just fit the single ring to where the middle ring would normally be and you'll be fine. Chain length - yes, chop the chain as you usually would. Remember you won't be able to fit a bigger ring than you have on when ou do this though - for example, I run the chain long enough to fit a 38t ring for flatter courses.
GB
hilly here 1x10 on the 29er 32 chainring not a 10spd ring, matters not(middle ring for any 1x set up), 11-36 cassette, ngear jumpstop and a bashring(cheap), wippermann connex chain. chain quite tight. been fine all winter. 20 spd set up for long days in the big hills.
go 10spd from new. 1x9 from parts till they wear out?
The only point of 1x10 is that you can have a 36t rear sprocket. If you need it, then go 1x10, if you don't go 1x9.
I replaced my 11-32t cassette with 11-34t and stuck with 1x9, rather than fork out all that extra dough.
EDIT: if you already have 9sp parts then I'd use them at least til they are knackered.
I've been running 1x9 all winter with an 11-32 rear cassette and where as it was ok the climbs were a bit of a grind at times and on the really steep stuff i found it difficult getting going again if i had to dab/walk etc.
I've just cahnge to 2x10 (not used the inner ring yet tbh so may well lose it) The difference in having a 36 tooth rear sprocket is amazing on a 29er. If i could have found anywere that had a 9spd 36t sprocket in stock i would have stuck with that but as it's only available if SLX it seems to be out of stock alot.
In short. If you can find a 9spd 36t cassette then I'd run with that. If not then IMO its worth the money to upgrade.
Thanks for all the help, awesome stuff!!!
You can get a 9sp sprocket with a 36T, no need to buy new shifters etc, just use your old stuff, get a long toothed front ring and the right length chain and you won't need an ugly device
Thanks, that's the thing though, how do you know you've got the chain length right, I haven't seen half links for 9/10spd chains, so surely you haven't got much chance of getting it exactly right?
tight enough to still allow the mech to get on the biggest sprocket and not loose enough for it to bounce off the front ring, a long toothed chainring is the key though, can rcommend the renthal ones, it's trial and error really all set ups will be slightly different
pic here is when i had the n-stop on, it's not needed though
[url= http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/5063009870_a20cdc78e1_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rocketdog/5063009870/ ]Pegasus 1 x 9[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rocketdog/ ]rOcKeTdOgUk[/url], on Flickr