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Converting my 2011 Pitch to 1x10 from 2x9 with a 32T narrow/wide chainring but the rear mech is a non-clutch type. I was just going to get a Superstar Plasma or similar, but then realised that the cost of one would be greater than selling the rear mech and buying a Type 2 X9 instead.
So, is that the better option, or should I stick with the standard rear mech and get a chain guide? Or do I really need both?
I run a clutch mech and narrow wide on 2 bikes one xtr and one xt.
I often forget to turn my clutch on and have never had the chain come off even on very long rooty rocky descents. I think the narrow wide does more for chain retention than the clutch mech but the clutch mech keeps things quiet.
I would run both given the choice.
Andy
Depends on how hard you ride. Easy way to find out is don't buy anything and see if the chain drops off or not, mine hasn't.
I switched from a NW to a standard ring and top guide.
Still use a clutch mech.
Things started off great but then started losing the chain. Mech, chain and ring were all new together but things started to go downhill!
Shifting seems quieter & slicker with a standard ring too.
Still running one of Works' first batch of N/Ws, with a Zee mech, without issue.
I'm using a NW ring with a worn 9sp chain & non clutch XT mech & no dropped chain for about 6 months Inc winter, racing & trails. I'd say you don't need a guide at all
I'm clutch and works narrow-wide, no chain device, on 2 bikes. Close to perfect and far, far better than chain device and no narrow-wide.
The chainring is the important bit, then the mech. And then[i] maybe[/i] a chain device.
I'd start off by simply trying 1x9 with the N/W ring and see how you go for a couple of weeks, just make sure the chain is as short as it can be....
I did that on my HT for six weeks or so and only dropped the chain twice in that whole time, I've since done a budget job and fitted a Deore Clutch mech/11-36 cassette/zee shifter and had no droppage since.
But for wanting that 36t sprocket I'd have probably stuck with 1x9...
If its really not working, then you can decide on a top guide or a clutch mech... I'd recommend the clutch mech/wider cassette option but YMMV...
The major benefit of a N/W ring is not having to use a guide, the fewer items mounted in that area the less mud and crap the bike accrues and the less filthy the chain gets meaning the drivetrain is generally a bit cleaner and happier IME.. It also makes drivetrain cleaning a doddle (just whip the chain off no front mech or guide cages to fiddle with)... and as an extra bonus I tend to just derail the chain if I do have to leave the bike anywhere, just to impede any would be thieves that little more...
What Northwind said. In 7 months I've not dropped the chain once using a RF N/W ring and SLX clutch mech despite hammering down some stuff thinking to myself that theres no way the chain is still going to be on still after this. It always is...
In 7 months I've not dropped the chain once using a RF N/W ring and SLX clutch mech despite hammering down some stuff thinking to myself that theres no way the chain is still going to be on still after this. It always is...
I dropped mine chain for the first time since fitting the other day. flat out super fast rocky descent on dartmoor. took 10s to put the chain back on as no guide to tangle things up in.
I went back the next day to see if I could drop it again, did it even faster and stayed on no problem.
Just converted mine to 1x10. Happy with the way the Superstar N/W ring is working. I have just added a Superstar Top guide for the Alps trip next week just for a little peace of mind though. But I can't imagine it staying on there once I'm back in the UK
But I can't imagine it staying on there once I'm back in the UK
Having seen the quality of the superstar guides, I can't imagine it staying there in the alps either..
I've just taken off my chain-guide (Blackspire Einfacx (Top only)), and haven't dropped the chain yet. Using a SRAM X0 Type 2 mech, Hope N/W ring. I'm hoping I don't need to run the top guide again but will go back on if I lose the chain, ride rocky / rooty stuff in the Lakes, so rough enough to cause a chain to bounce. Soon see 🙂
i use a blackspire stinger up front with a normal ring and a clutch mech at the back...seems to work for me.
I often forget to turn my clutch on and have never had the chain come off even on very long rooty rocky descents. I think the narrow wide does more for chain retention than the clutch mech but the clutch mech keeps things quiet.
My experience is the complete opposite. When my clutch was broken I could barely descent a few hundred metres of roots, jumps and rock without having to put the chain back on a few times.
With a working clutch I've lost the chain maybe twice.
IME, standard ring + (decent) guide is about the same performance as a narrow wide. I have one of each setup, both with clutch mechs. NW are great because they allow to get rid of the front mech/guide and thus save some weight but for me the performance isn't miles better. That is to say, I very rarely lose the chain on my NW setup, and very rarely lose it with the standard ring + top guide. I would imagine that NW + guide is even more bombproof but I agree it's not necessary.
Some caveats:
My NW appears to be dropping the chain slightly more frequently now it's > 1 yr old.
If I rode a lot in claggy mud, I might consider a top guide - this seems to be when NW aren't perfect and I've lost a chain.
If I backpedal in extremes of gears then I can lose the chain from the top guide / standard ring setup (whereas the NW ring helps for both pedalling forward AND backward chain retention).
I have no experience of either without a clutch mech although as above I've left the clutch off and not had any real problems.
I run slx clutch only. No droppage