Issue 164: Oh Canada! Fabulous Fernie

This is an extended version of the feature published in issue 164

Words: Sanny – Pics: Sanny & Mark

Nestling in the heart of the Elk Valley, Fernie is the only city in Canada that is fully encircled by the Rockies. It is nothing short of spectacular. Step out of your hotel room and the scale of the surrounding landscape is almost overwhelming. From Mount Fernie and the Three Sisters to the north to Fernie Ridge in the east and then to Morrisey Ridge and the Lizard Range in the south, you can almost taste the adventures which await you. I’ve spent a lot of time in the Alps and the Dolomites but the sheer scale of the Rockies truly has to be seen to be believed. A mixture of cedar, spruce, balsam and fir trees along with ancient rainforest and exposed rocky peaks, I was almost giddy with excitement at the prospect of what the riding had to offer.

However, that would have to wait for the following day as we had the first match of the Ice Hockey season to attend. Ever the tourist, despite a hearty pre-match meal, Mark decided he wanted to go full local and ordered a massive hot dog. We watched in awe and then pity as he looked increasingly uncomfortable as he tried to finish it. He had clearly bitten off more than he could chew. Never having been to an ice hockey game before, I was impressed at just how fast and skilful the players were (the home team, the Ghostriders, winning Four – Two, on the night), the fact that it had three halves (Ends? Rounds? Darned if I know!) and the politeness of the crowd. There was plenty of vocal support for both sides but none of the sectarian, sexist and racist bollox that typifies pretty much every football match that I have ever been to.

We could learn a lot from our Canadian cousins on this one. Our accents attracted some friendly chat and set the tone for what we experienced during the entire trip. Canadians, in the Rockies at least, are a very friendly and welcoming bunch. There is no edge to them. What you see is what you get. Imagine Glaswegian friendliness and chatting to anyone without the swearing and you’ll get the idea.

Let’s ride!

Or not. A miscommunication meant that MJ had been supplied with a brand-new Troy Lee helmet which was so small that it made him look like he was a Tefal Egg Head from the eighties TV adverts. Walking into Straight Line Bikes on the main street, ostensibly to buy Bear Spray (you spray it on the bear, not yourself!), he mentioned his predicament to James the Shop Manager, who offered to do a straight swap for one they had in stock. He had just sold the last large and  said that it would save him having to order a replacement. Talk about incredible customer service. Hailing from Aberdeen, James isn’t even Canadian but he has clearly picked up some admirable Canadian traits. What an absolute superstar.

Ready to ride, we took a short spin along to Gearhub Bike Shop (home to some genuinely classic old Rocky Mountain bikes on the walls) to meet our guide, Alina of local guiding company, Ridetheory. With a smile as wide as the Clyde, we all immediately warmed to her; her natural enthusiasm and desire to show us some of the signature trails in Fernie, really shone through. We knew we were in good hands. Introductions and a gift of Tunnocks finest comestibles made (albeit with a warning that eating several in one go is like being punched in the face by a bag of sugar), we were finally riding. A gentle potter past the railroad and down one of Fernie’s more well-heeled streets saw us reach the trailhead. Our plan was simple; over the two days available, we would ride the three trails that make up the Fernie Brewing Company “Trail to Ale” Challenge. Ridden within 24 hours, you can bike, run or walk the route and if you complete the 40 odd km over the best part of 1400m of ascent challenge with selfies taken at the start, finish and three summit signs, you earn yourself a free drink and sticker. It’s the perfect excuse for an adventure and to sample three very distinct trails.

Hyperventilaton aka trying not to blow out your arse

Starting gently through the gradually goldening leaves of silver birch, a classic North American barn to our left, Hyperventilation is a switch backed climb that gently wends its way through the treeline as it rises inexorably upwards from the Montane Blue trailhead. Although generally quite gentle as an ascent, there were a few sections of steep that kept us on our toes as well as some tight switchbacks that required a bit of concentration to get up and round. As we rode ever upwards, Alina waxed lyrical about the riding in Fernie and the community that has built up around the outdoor lifestyle.

Although built on the back of coal extraction, something that is still a major employer in the area with some 90 percent of the coal destined for China for the production of high grade steel, the area is famed for the quality of the powder skiing on offer and the variety and sheer number of mountain bike and hiking trails. With a population just a little over a half the size of that of Peebles but with some 400km of trails on the doorstep, it positively dwarfs the entire network of Seven Stanes Trails. The same can be said for the bike parks and Forestry trails in the whole of Wales. It is truly astonishing that such a small town can pack such a massive punch. Even locals who live here year-round struggle to ride all the trails in a season. As she chatted, I concentrated on keeping my heart rate down and my answers short while Mark and Nutty opted to take a more relaxed approach to the ascent, lest they live up to the trail’s moniker.

Big sky scenery

Cresting a rise, the entire valley opened up in front of us. Alina took great delight in pointing out the ski area to our left and over towards the rainforest trails on Mount Fernie that we would be riding the next day. Rather conveniently, the trail builders had installed a seat meaning that we had the perfect excuse to rest and catch our breath in the warm mountain air. It might have been late September, but the weather was positively summer like. Sweat was pouring off us and I for one felt like some kind of human salt shower. With much of the climbing done, we pressed on for the final rise to the summit proper. Overlooking Castle Mountain and Coal Creek, our talk soon turned from awestruck amazement at our surroundings to all manner of things such as Yoda and the jokes of Jimmy Carr. Fair to say that we were a happy bunch as we soaked in the scenery. I could spend whole paragraphs waxing lyrical about our vista; I’m sure magnificent, spectacular and jaw dropping would all feature but this isn’t Red Sock Monthly. You want to know about the descent – and what a descent. Entirely man made, it snakes through the trails and out into a section of slightly exposed open clearing before darting back through the trees as it zigs and zags its way down the mountainside. Although classed as a Black Diamond trail, nothing on it felt steep or difficult. Flow was very much the order of the day. Mindful of the potential for an encounter with the local wildlife, we made a point of whooping and hollering as we rode. I say it was for the bears but to be honest, I reckon we would have done that anyway. At one point, I was conscious that something big was in the trees above me but not keen for a close encounter, I kept on trucking with a “Hey bear” in my wake.

Hitting a recently clear-felled section, Alina felt the need to apologize for the trail as if there was something inferior about it. Quite to the contrary, the open aspect made for a great contrast to the tree lined stuff and was equally as enjoyable. No complaints from me, that’s for sure and we were all grinning from ear to ear as we made our way back into town along the curiously named “Easy Beaver”. Perhaps the etymology is best left to others to fathom? Bidding farewell to Alina, we retired to the Brickhouse for lunch with Christine from Tourism Fernie for what can only be described as a belly burster. Funny how mountain air can really turbocharge your appetite. It was great to learn about the history of Fernie, how the outdoor lifestyle was at the heart of the community and the key role it has to play in making Fernie what it is. With it only mid-afternoon, we met up with Rick Weiss of the Coal Creek Heritage Society. Created in 2020 to manage and maintain the 50km of privately owned trails in the Montane and Ridgemont area of Fernie that we rode that morning, the Society is a brilliant example of how to build relationships with landowners in order to build and maintain biking and walking trails. Volunteer led, we listened intently as Rick told us how he and his group of Senior volunteers meet up weekly in order to keep the trail network up and running. Even in the depths of winter, their work doesn’t stop as they groom trails for fat bikes, something I was delighted to learn. Having retired from Calgary, his enthusiasm and drive to give back to the community was remarkable. What he and his team do is no easy task. Frankly, it must at times feel like a job with no financial reward. Unsanctioned trail building is a constant headache as is the difficulty of getting younger riders involved in maintaining the trails but these felt like challenges which he takes in his stride.

Later we met with Ben Martin and Mel Wrigglesworth of the Fernie Trail Alliance, a registered charity which works with landowners, member clubs and recreation groups in order to maintain and enhance the trail network in the valley. A mix of volunteers and two staff members, they are responsible for some 370km of trail. In 2023, they spent nearly 5000 hours on trail work. Funded through grants and the voluntary trail pass system (a bloody bargain at only $60 a year), the results of their dedication and commitment are there for every user to see and enjoy. If you find yourself in Fernie, make sure you use the QR codes on the Trail Map to donate to the CCHS and purchase a Trail Pass from the FTA as every penny they receive makes a difference.

It can be hungry work pressing the flesh and after a lot of time spent lazing by the river in the late afternoon sunshine and a most welcome pizza with former pro rider Katy Winton, who regaled us with tales of some of the hairier parts of her recent Trans BC ride, we hit the hay, eager to see what the next day would bring.

More, more, more!

After a brief trip to the local Farmer’s Market to purchase grain free gin (Hint! More than two shots will have you feeling somewhat disconnected from your bike) after a hearty breakfast bagel, we met Alina for a gentle spin along the valley floor towards Mount Fernie. Trail 2 was to be Project 9. We had been warned by a couple of locals that the climb was a stone-cold pain in the petunias. Four pillars of pain was one comment. However, ever the optimist I tried not to let it bother me as we spun our way along broad fire road; the sunlight creating a glorious, dappled effect through the trees, the leaves on the turn for autumn’s chill embrace. Starting with Lazy Lizard, Rick’s favourite trail in the area, it was an easy start to the ascent. A small kid on a balance bike and his dad came down the trail. Clearly, they start them young here. Reaching a clearing with electricity pylons looming above, we passed what looked like a fresh bear poo. Checking my bear spray, I endeavoured to ride casually as if there was nothing to worry about. Alina was reassuring in noting that it had been a bumper summer for berries thus most bears were pretty ready for winter but having ridden the Banff river trail many years ago when a runner was mauled to death not long after, I prefered to err on the side of caution.

Upward we went, the much-anticipated sections of “steep death” being despatched relatively easily. To be honest, they weren’t anywhere near as tough nor as long as I had anticipated but the top was still a welcome sight. Breaking briefly for a snack and to observe the steep chute option which none of us took, we were soon heading down the trail at a fair old lick. If you have seen pictures of North Shore riding with massive tree stumps and exposed roots, you have a fair idea of what to expect, albeit with none of the terrifying wooden features. We were constantly in motion as we made our way through the twists and turns of the trail, the odd jump or kicker there for a little added spice. The further we got down, the rockier it became while by the end, we were on smooth flow trails. It had come and gone in what felt like a flash but boy, was it good fun. Not content to finish on fireroad, Alina took us down the wonderfully named Purple Monkey Dishwasher. If this was at home, it would by my favourite trail – bags of easy flow with only a short spin to get back to the top.

Pork themed goodness

With one trail left on the challenge, we retraced our pedal strokes along the valley before following the Elk River to the foot of Mount Proctor, the highlight being riding on the covered bridge you tend to see in Hallmark films on Netflix at Christmas time – not that I would know, of course (coughs). Arguably the easiest of the three climbs, Swine Climb is a classic switchback climb that closely mimics the likes of the trails at Glentress. The only noticeably steep section comes at the very end of the climb where the trail pops you out at a magnificent viewpoint, a red painted steel pig sculpture for company which denotes the start of the descent.

Chatting with some locals, one of them said they met when he made a lowball offer for their house. A curious way to start a friendship, for sure. As a way to finish the challenge, Swine Flu was a gem – a mix of berms, small drops, high bankings and roots mixed up in a package that positively begs you to go just that little bit faster. As an introduction to Fernie riding, it rounded off our adventure perfectly while the free drink at the Fernie Brewing Company felt like the icing on the cake. It’s definitely somewhere you could happily spend an hour or two post ride relaxing over a libation or three. As a way to start a Canadian road trip, Fernie had set a very high bar.

Want to know more?

The Fernie Unused Gallery

One big collection of the images we didn’t use.

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