Looking at 42 and 40 tooth cogs and wondering why people are buying the T-Rex 40 over the One-up, etc 42. Is it more about availability and price or is there any other advantage for 40t?

Needing all the advantage I can get, I’m planning on going 42t but interested in any reasons why not.

40t is short cage compatible.

You don’t have to run an extra large b tension screw.
Basically your not pushing your mechs capacity too maximum.

Read it in the news

Mostly people are buying Hope because it’s had such a big launch and you can buy them in the shops, and they have a Hope logo on, I think.

42t on my heavier fs and 40t on my lighter ht. Have to admit my wolf tooth 42t looks a better quality piece of machining compared to the hope.

Maybe the 40tooths for folk who much have the latest fashion item but are not unfit enough to need at 42 ?

40t is enduro, 42t is only for free ride/all mountain.

Read it in the news

That’s interesting, linking cog size directly with cassette range. Just need a matrix of gnarr factor Vs radness now.

Mostly people are buying Hope because it’s had such a big launch and you can buy them in the shops, and they have a Hope logo on, I think.

😆

Haven’t some people reported problems with the shifting from 36t to 42t?

It’s interesting. Hope and One Up Components state that you can convert an 11-36 with the 40t cog but e13 specify you have to use an 11-34 cassette to avoid shifting problems with the 40t. Who has tried 11-36 with a hope 40t-rex? Does it shift without problems? I’m thinking of running a 40t-rex with a SRAM 1080 cassette and a Zee short cage RD for an alpine plaything.

I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.

Makes sense Tim.

I’m thinking of doing the same.

Or just buy a smaller chainring?

I’d not want a 42t, 40 or even 38 might just be the extra I’d want. Judt for the really draggy horrible climbs.

Makes sense Tim.

It doesn’t! Just stick a smaller chainring on. 11-36 is a wider gear spread than 13-40.

I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.

I think that is missing the point. The range of 13-40 and 11-36 are about the same, you should have just got a smaller chainring instead.

I’m running a Hope 40T cog on an XT 11-36 cassette with a Zee mech and having no problems at all. I ditched the 17T cog, but also removed the 15T and replaced it with a 16 to smooth out the ratios.

This is the problem with the SRAM 1080 cassette (which I already have). You have to remove the 15t (I think) which leaves you with a large jump. The bonus is you end up with a super light cassette compared to using an XT or a 1070.

Removing the 11t makes no sense to me either. Its the range I want to get as close as I can to my XX1 setup on my other bike.

depends on the cassette you’re running- if it tops out at a 34t, then going to 42t will be a huge jump. 40t will be smoother in this case.

Just set up 11-36 with a hope 40t, looks and shifts fine.
As for why no 42t I’ve heard a few things about it taking everything to the limits and the jump from 36 to 42 seems big.

It’s a step between normal 10sp and xx1 for me.

I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.

Oh sweet jesus. You’ve just reduce the range of your cassette rather than increasing it

Makes sense Tim.

Sarcasm I hope?

I’m thinking of doing the same.

Then you’re an idiot.

Just for the hard of comprehension:
-If you want easier gears; get a smaller chainring.
-If you want to extend your range of gears; slap a 40t or 42 cog on your cassette. If you want extra low gears; run a small chainring (30t); if you want extra high gears run a larger one (36t).

Don’t do as suggested above and end up with more cost, harder gear changes, more weight and a smaller range of gears 🙄

The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring. The Hope 40 Trex did exactly what was needed. Find me a 28t ring that fits a 104bcd and I’ll recommend that.

I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.

The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring. The Hope 40 Trex did exactly what was needed. Find me a 28t ring that fits a 104bcd and I’ll recommend that.

Makes a bit more sense there, I’d probably still have retained the extra range though as a bonus.

That jump from 15 to 19 is quite noticeable though. Try it yourself and see what I mean.

highest gear 30-13…?!?
And lives in Linconshire…. 😯

I have, it’s not that much of an issue, personally running out at the top end is.

Personally, I quite like having two chain rings and a front mech. Gives me a smashing usable range of gears and keeps my chain in check too 🙂

THink I’m going to swap the 15T ring for a 16 and see how that feels, shame they’re not easier to find though, looks like I’ll be ordering from germany

If it makes any odds the Hope 40t seems to work with any shimano cassette (Deore, SLX, XT certainly) and 32,34 or 36t in my quick ‘try it for size’ tests anyway.

anyone got a confirmed.. “works perfect with a zee mech” story?

The wider range zee ‘FR’ mech obviously.

I’m assuming you mean in the remove the 11t conversion Tim, do the lower end shimano stuff not have a fixed block in the lower ranges?

Oakesy2001uk – yes, it works perfectly for me with a Zee mech. I tried a long cage mech, too, and there was no difference in shifting.

The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring.

while trying not to sound condescending (and no doubt failing) that sounds like someone who should be keeping a front shifter and granny ring.

THink I’m going to swap the 15T ring for a 16 and see how that feels, shame they’re not easier to find though, looks like I’ll be ordering from germany

Just grind a tooth off a 17T ring – sorted. Worked for me in the same situation. Also means you can go to 39T at the top for better shifting.

The 15-19 shift is a bit crappy. It’s too big a gap for the pickup ramps to help with the upshift. You can see why it’s lazy when the bike is on the stand.

It’s not as bad on the 36-40, I assume because the Hope ring has the pickups machined lower to help with the shift.

36-42 would be a big jump!

36-42 would be a big jump!

Works perfectly on mine, clicks in place with the same ease as all of the other gears.

XX1 has a 36-42 step……

Agree with Northwind about the jump from 15 to 19 though, I’ve got a 16 so I’ll give that a go in place of the 15 to see if it makes any difference.

More seriously, I run 33 x 11/36 on one of my bikes and, to be honest, where I live it’s mostly fine. Low enough to get up most things, slightly under-geared on road descents, but I can live with that, so I guess I could fit a 40 on the back and then increase the size of the chainring which would give me a similarly lowest gear, but a higher top.

Or I could stick with the 33 chain-ring and have a lower bottom gear, which I probably don’t need. But in either case I end up with a biggish jump somewhere in the middle of the cassette.

I don’t think I need a lower gear anyway – maybe if I lived somewhere hillier than the Peak – and I’m quite a normal, regular kind of rider and if I did live somewhere with really steep climbs, I’d probably just have a triple or double anyway.

I guess the bottom line for me is that:

1. I’m not sure why you’d need either a lower gear or a wider spread of gears, off road at least.

2. It’s not like like having a single front ring is so astonishingly brilliant that I wouldn’t just put up with a few hundred grammes of extra weight and simply fit a front mech, shifter and another chain ring or two.

I’m amused that people seem furious over the whole wheel size thing, but SRAM’s extortionately priced 1×11 system and the aftermarket’s attempts to replicate the range with a 10-speed cassette, also at highish prices – add in those wide/narrow rings too, seems to fly completely under the radar.

Why’s SRAM’s stuff in the area so expensive? A cynic might think that if it were affordable, it would mean selling fewer cranks, chainrings and shifters, so the price is artificially inflated to keep things nicely profitable.

I should get out more…

Why’s SRAM’s stuff in the area so expensive? A cynic might think that if it were affordable, it would mean selling fewer cranks, chainrings and shifters, so the price is artificially inflated to keep things nicely profitable.

Because it’s their top of the range, all singing, all dancing groupset maybe?

They arn’t going to be selling their (perceived) higher than XTR groupset for pocket change are they…