i found a 2008 doc. that states 18nm which seems high. the 2012 doc. for quad link states 8nm. ive tried 14nm but i now have a bad creak.

nip em up then add a nadge more for luck….that’ll do.
Torque settings is fur sutherners.

i find correct torque setting usually save me money and less time with my bikes on the workstand .

Whit wiz that?

Creak may be from the replaceable dropouts on the back of the swing arm, take them off, grease the mating surface and then do up the weird (very expensive) allen bolt and collar things using some thread lock.

@ming
that is very helpful thanks.this could be the problem as i removed the drop outs for a clean at the same time as i serviced the linkage, but did’nt think to grease the mating surface.

Are you sure it’s a 2009 and not a 2008 Click on the link.

Oh and do them up “Harrier” tight as well.

The allen key bolts are just common or garden chainring bolts, so replacement is dead easy.

Threadlock is your friend. Despite regularly checking mine, they invariably loosen and the resulting creak drives me potty until I remember to retighten mid ride.

On the PJM scale, it’s a case of doing them up b*st*rd tight. You’re tightening against sturdy blocks of 1/2″ thick aluminium so over torquing shouldn’t be an issue unless you plan to use ally chainring bolts in an ill advised attempt to pimp the dropouts.

The PJM torque scale is as follows:

Race Face cranks = #@*% tight
Marin droputs = B*st*rd tight
Chainring bolts, Shimano crank arms = Damn tight
FSR Pivot bolts, Truvativ ally crank bolts = Pretty tight
Stem bolts, lock on grips = Tight
Brake levers, shifters, headset tensioner etc = not quite as tight
Shimano Hollowtech O/s axle tension, pedal threads = just nipped up nicely.