[Closed] Utterly Defeated by Tubeless!

More tape like you say and go use a compressor.

Maxxis for me next time I change,they go on the rim easily and seal easily too.My Magic Mary needed to stay on the rim with an inflated tube for a couple of days and then still took a lot of effort to get it to seal.The Minion on the rear went on no probs.

I've been using a Bontrager Flash Charger and it's never failed. Just this time, the tyre was that loose, the air just escapes out of the side.

Funny though when I tried seating it with a tube, the bead was solid on the rim, just in the middle it was too slack.

Missus is on Maxxis and she's really enjoying being right 🙂

Went tubeless for the first time today. Was prepared for the worst but it was ridiculously easy.

Just lucky I haven't got your tyre and rim combo!

For reference Alex Volar rims with maxxis HR2 and a minion.

Sounds like I will bee staying with maxxis!

Sorry to hear of your nightmare mate. 🙁
I got lucky.

I feel your pain OP. I was finding tubeless easy until I tried a Magic Mary. Couldn't get it up even with an air reservoir. A day on the wheel with an inner tube and at 40 psi did the trick though.

Keep adding tape until the bagginess disappears.

They can be a real PITA I`v put most on with a Joe blow track pump, but some are just too narrow between the bead to get them to seat and bead up. Those are the days i take them to work for a quick blast of 7 bar off the air line.
The LBs use an air shot pump, they swear by it. Perhaps you could try local shop and ask if they would seat them for a few quid.
FWIW i find older used tyres go on more easily and WTB are by far the tightest on the bead but i really like the Vigillante so I will put up with it.

Dont forget when yo go tubeless you will need the tubeless repair kit for trailside puncture repair 😀 where you must persevere with the ongoing repair for the rest of ride and never give in and put a tube in (even though your carrying one)

Airshot

https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Specialized/Air-Tool-Blast-Pressurised-Floor-Drive-Track-Pump/EIL9?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=base&co=GBR&cu=GBP&gclid=CNXfsbfE1NICFQpAGwodansEhg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tubeless repair

https://www.merlincycles.com/weldtite-tubeless-tyre-repair-kit-85065.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-GB&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Puncture+Repair&ucpo=23150&gclid=COvxxcrE1NICFSIL0wodj0QH3w

always struggled with the magic mary's, can take quite a few attempts even with a compressor to get them seated. maxxis, specialized and wtb tyres have always gone straight on really easyly.
once the mary needs replacing i'm going to try a shorty instead, meant to be abetter tyre and should mount up easyer

I've had good results with WTB, not so great with Hutchinson, but that was ghetto without proper rims.

Guys, as a noob to tubeless till today.... What is the function of adding more layers of tape in the bottom of the rim?

I imagine it's to aid sealing on a baggy tyre/ rim combo??

Thanks!

haha oh the irony bigfoot! I've just taken my Shorty off to try a Magic Mary.

This is the first time I've ever struggled and given up, the Maxxis and Specialized were easier than fitting tubes.

Not had a puncture in 2 years of being tubeless and I kept meaning to buy one of those repair kits.

I'm going to properly stock up on bits I've been neglecting (gorilla tape, tubeless repair etc).

It's the Super gravity bit that's the issue i think.

I bought a pair of the 27.5 HD too and they didn't go anywhere near fitting either my Hope Enduro or Hope Enduro 35w rims (I refuse to snap a plastic lever or even show the rim a metal one).

I ended up ditching them for regular HD's.

First time I ever went tubeless it was a spesh control on a stans rim. Went up with a foot pump. Piece of piss I thought..

Never come close to that level of success again in following 5 years. Getting it to pop on the rim is just the first hurdle. Some stay up, some dont..no reasoning behind it as all are tubeless ready tyres.

Means I never change tyres and run the same set up in all conditions. Not sure the benefits outweigh the obvious drawbacks

Shwalbe tyres nearly did for me too... Nearly cried one time. Bought new tyres in the end and hey presto!

The Super Gravity went on eventually, wrestling with those sidewalls was horrendous though.

The Magic Mary Snake Skin has really upset me with it's Wizard's Sleeve level of slack!

I feel you on the crying 🙂

to aid sealing on a baggy tyre/ rim combo

Exactly that, i had trouble getting the tyres on my old bike people recommended?more tape and it didn't make sense to me, but i tried it and they went up with a track pump.

What is the function of adding more layers of tape in the bottom of the rim?

I imagine it's to aid sealing on a baggy tyre/ rim combo??

Yes. To get it to inflate, you need to get air into the tyre faster than it escapes out under the bead, so that the beads are pushed outwards onto the outer parts of the rim where they should seal properly. More tape reduces the size of the gap under the bead.

I have some tyres that are so tight that they form a tight seal just sitting in the rim channel. They'll go up even with slow pumping on a track pump. Others are loose and need the valve core out plus a blast from the converted fire extinguisher to get them up.

It's the stupid "tubeless easy" thing schwalbe started doing which should actually be called "easy to put on but so ****ing loose they won't go up tubeless"

Poopscoop - Member
Went tubeless for the first time today. Was prepared for the worst but it was ridiculously easy.

You're being lulled into a false sense of security. Once you're sold on the whole tubeless thing, the first time you need to fit a tyre where it's slightly time critical, that's when the problems will occur.

Thanks for the info on the extra tape guys, will remember that!

ChrisL

You're being lulled into a false sense of security. Once you're sold on the whole tubeless thing, the first time you need to fit a tyre where it's slightly time critical, that's when the problems will occur.

Yeah, I think your right...
I think I wont be changing tyres as often as I did with tubes. 😯

Hope Tech Enduro rims,

this got the same for a rear - wont air up tubeless and I have compressor, all my other tyres and wheels no problems.

Ditch the crap Hope wheel set, heavy, lifeless.

 

theboyneeds - Member

Shwalbe tyres nearly did for me too... [b]Nearly cried one time.[/b] Bought new tyres in the end and hey presto!

Not in this scenario but I have to say Ive felt similar on some occasions with bikes over the years! Cry/ throw the bl**dy thing in the skip..... been a close call on either a few times in the past.

Glad its not just me! 🙂

Try putting a tube in. Seat the tyre by making it go ping. Then deflate carefully to leave one side still seated and remove the tube. Then remove the core from the tubeless valve and fit the valve.

Fold the baggy tyre in and inflate. Don't add sealant at this stage.

If it works then add the sealant by gently pushing the tyre or put through the core.

An air shot or compressor makes it far easier.

I only ever use schwalbe. I can't imagine using anything else.

Good luck

I've been considering tubeless now that my 29*3.0 tyres arrived from ridewill.it

Just waiting for a good deal on some wide rims.

Anyway, one thing I've learned is that a lot of tyres aren't very supple at first.

This makes them a pita to get on a rim.

Best to get a brew on and then sit with the tyre for half an hour and gently twist it in your hands as though wringing out a wet towel...working your way round the tyre, etc.

Another idea that looks ace, is to cut a strip of foam camping mattress and insert it into the tyre. Apparently the foam strip makes the tyre grip the rim better.

Credit to Ali Clarksons vlog on YouTube for making it look easy:)

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

Valve core out.

Compressor

The air blow gun with a thin nozzle jammed into the valve.

Not failed me yet even on the baggiest of supposedly non tubeless compatible tires

Use the ratchet strap/old tube method around the outside of the tyre to splay out the bead closer to the rim, even more effective if u've seated one side with a tube first. Then add your sealant via the valve.works well with fat tyres which can be notoriously baggy

Ensuring the bead close to the valve is seated on both sides works for road tyres with a track pump. With the larger MTB tyre volume an air shot and making sure both sides around the valve are seated should also work well.

Ironically I was fitting my new Hope Enduro wheels yesterday and hit the same issue.

I've used Schwalbe tyres for years and never had any problems on Mavic UST or Stans rims. Can't get them to work on Hope.

The rim is a crap shape for taping, wide tape can't conform to the deep well in the centre. Narrow tape doesn't cover the mystery random holes near the edges. Both sizes just make a mess. The tyres popped up fine, but couldn't get enough pressure to seat the beads properly due to air pissing out around the spokes.

I too whacked some tubes in after a couple of hours and put tubeless on the 'things to do when I have more time' list.

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

Just like discs on road bikes eh?

damascus - Member

Try putting a tube in. Seat the tyre by making it go ping. Then deflate carefully to leave one side still seated and remove the tube. Then remove the core from the tubeless valve and fit the valve.

That's been it for me with troublesome ones, one side beaded and the other then off for removing the tube.... I'm yet to fail with this method.

I've had plenty of problems with Schwalbe Racing Ralphs, same issue, just too loose to go up. They are easy to get on, then the pain starts. I had to remove the tyre once to repair a hole and I could not get it back on. I used a homebrew airshot, more tape (after 4 layers I think it was getting a bit excessive). Stuck a bontrager tyre on and it went up first time with a track pump.
Although, I haven't had a problem with Rocket Rons.

Then I had the opposite on the road tubeless, Schwalbe One Pro's. Almost impossible to get on, then I got a puncture the sealant didn't seal, and it took me 20 minutes swearing at the roadside to get the damn thing off. I've not switched to Hutchinson Sectors and they just went on easily, and pumped up with a track pump.

6079smithw - Member

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

@damascus - I tried all that as a last ditch attempt. Seating one side of the bead with a tube, had ratchet straps and all sorts over the tyre 🙂

I might invest in some new rims eventually anyway and have someone build them onto my existing hubs. I know what you mean about the deep well being a pain to tape.

When I first did it, it took a full roll of Stan's tape to get right and that's supposed to be good for 4 wheels!

I'll admit to being a massive tart as the only reason I changed is because I thought they looked good 😳

I'll run with tubes until I get a puncture or new rims for now. Pinch flats were the reason I went tubeless and I've not had a flat for 2 years.

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

Your probably right, I've been tubeless for 4 years and not had a single puncture in that time.

What a waste of time. 😆

Solving my issue with getting pinch flats and punctures from small thrones.

[img] [/img]

Pointy...

The rim is a crap shape for taping, wide tape can't conform to the deep well in the centre. Narrow tape doesn't cover the mystery random holes near the edges. Both sizes just make a mess. The tyres popped up fine, but couldn't get enough pressure to seat the beads properly due to air pissing out around the spokes.

Maybe try the veloplugs? Might need a bit of sealant (mastic or latex) to help seal. 5g per wheel so on par with 7g of stans tape.

washing up liquid bubbles... really helps with seating.
I use 2 shots in from my airshot to really get Schwalbes seated correctly.

I use rim strips and have noticed that the section of strip containing the valve often sits a bit higher that the rest of the strip this can create a big air gap just past the valve which makes it really hard to inflate as the air does not get round the tire. I used sellotape to lift the rim strip up and then cut it away by the valve hole to ensure the strip was sitting at a constant height.
The only major problem I have is that I always manage to fit the tire the wrong way round!!

Welcome to the wonderful world of Schwalbe tubeless! They are either slack or horrendously tight. Seemingly no middle ground on their tyres. We occasionally let people supply their own tyres if they really want to, except Schwalbe. Not worth the grief in the workshop!

Im going to plug my own product here... sorry - but there's a reason it exists and thats mainly due to the high quantity of hope hoops we used to sell. We do a 25mm tape that we get manufactured for us to use in the workshop - same 'type of tape as stans (polyamide strapping tape), but its 1/2 the thickness. http://www.bird.bike/product/bird-tubeless-tape/ This makes it much better at deforming to the contours of the hope rim and as you build the layers up it forms a kind of false bed for the tyre in the middle. You need to use 2 or 3 wraps round normally to get a good strong taping as it needs to laminate together for strength. However on your slack tyre I would probably double that up to take up some of the slack in the tyre. You can of course just add another layer of stans tape or two to start, but thats an expensive game and their rolls are quite short.

I would also recommend spraying the sidewalls (and inside edge of the rim), with some water before inflating the slack one, as it really helps get the tyre moving. I use a regular plant spray type thing to prevent it from soaking everything. Some people as above use soapy water, but tbh I find plain water works just as well and is less messy.

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

I resorted to a buying a Joe Blow Booster after failing to get a tyre up on my rim

It was a spesh something, butcher or purgatory. It's been fitted to the rim before tubeless, but this time around it just didn't want to go. Air was just coming out from between the rim and the bead

It was the first time I'd had a problem, they'd always gone up with a track pump before then. And it was a tube and rim that had worked in that way in the past

Very strange, and quite annoying!

Make sure the tape is on properly. I've gone through dozens of failed attempts to realise. i hurried the tape and there are just enough small bubbles to allow air to seep through to the spoke holes.

Tape off, then a single layer, very carefully applied does the job. Along with a bounty flash charger, clean rim and bead and sometimes washing up liquid.

Multiple layers don't always help.

Also, support the wheel either on the bike or a wheel jig so the tyre isn't resting on the ground. Allows it to deform evenly as it seats.

Tubeless. Solving a problem that was never there.

Never ridden in a desert or anywhere with hawthorns that get cropped and spread yearly.

I spent a good few hours trying to get tubeless working on a set of Stans Arch Ex's last Sunday with no success

Tried three different tubeless valves (the final one seemed to be OK, but then the bead would no longer seat)

Two different tyres (High Roller Lust and High Roller Exo (TR))

I used a charger style track pump getting up to 200psi with no luck

The rim tape I'm using is gorilla tape

I also run two sets of Mavic Crossmax SX's (sealed rim) and these seem to go up without issue using the charger pump, sometimes using a normal track pump

The front one was definitely suffering from lack of tape. I think I'll try some of your tape Ben, totally forgot about it!

Just need to summon the courage to try again now 🙂

Not looking forward to that rear one though....

Im going to plug my own product here...

I like the look of that.

Currently using Tesa tape that is supposed to be the same as Stans but I am not 100 convinced. Never had fresh Stans tape but the stuff I just took off an Arch EX Hope Hoop feels a bit different. Could just be old.

When I tape up rims I use my heat gun set to 160 degC and use a microfibre cloth to try and protect my thumb. Do a single cold wrap putting a lot of tension on the tape and pushing it into the well. Then go around with the heat gun and cloth working the tape down from the well outwards and pushing air either torwards the spoke holes or the edges.

First time I did I ended up with blistered thumbs from the friction and air heat. I find the Tesa stuff a bit too thick so this Bird stuff looks much better.

Also tried blue composite bagging tape, it was crap.

Bought some Bird tape, got to support our local STWers

I love tubeless - 1 genuine innovation in a world of pointless changes for the sake of it. That said I would never try to seat a tyre without an inflation device. Why bother with the uncertainty and hassle. Will this tyre/rim combo seat? maybe yes?, maybe no? maybe after 2 hours of frantic pumping or messing about with multiple layers of tape and temporary inner tubes.

Sod that! Make yourself a lemonade bottle inflator - or even better a fire extinguisher inflator for those real stubborn tyres 🙂
One layer of stans tape
pop the tyre on
remove the valve core
Inflate your fire extinguisher to the required pressure for the tyre.... Maxxis about 50PSI, Magic Mary about 80PSI, Ghetto 4in Fatbike Tyre about 160PSI....dont do that one with a pop bottle!!!
Then just press go and watch the magic happen

All you have to worry about now is what to do with all the spare time you now have when you used to be faffing with tyres!

I've just done my front Rocket Ron, the 29er version went on fine, so thought i'd try the 650b version. They're not techincally tubeless, but the 29er version are holding fine up to now.

Just done my wife's wheels (WTB i25 rims with a High Roller 2 / Shorty combo.

Took 3 minutes to do both wheels...

I feel abused by Schwalbe 🙁

Just swapped a pair of Schwalbe G One Speed from one set of Ksyriums (with worn bearings) to another set. Aside from them being unbelievably hard to remove and mount, and not seating the valves properly, leading to immediate leaks, the job was straightforward. Needs very thin tyre levers to get under the bead to lift it off, so will be problematic out on the road.

Superb tyres though, really very good indeed. I've just ordered an Airshot and the fastest tyres in the world, for my first TT of 2017 on Saturday.

Ohh, good luck in the TT TiRed. Giving the tyres a test on Sunday in the PMBA at Gisburn (hartail cat).

Fingers crossed that it's puncture free (for you and me!).

What's the general consensus on using tape with true UST rims and tyres?

I'm getting the impression that people tend to use it anyway.

I fitted a UST Trail King to a UST (fulcrum) rim without tape and despite the fact that it was the loosest tyre ever (this is no exaggeration) it went up okay with a ghetto compressor.

It did take a couple of weeks for the stans to fully seal it but after a couple of re-pumps it held air and has continued to be faultless since.

I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Fingers crossed that it's puncture free (for you and me!).

Vittoria Corsa Speed G+ Tubeless in 23c on Giant pSLR aero wheels if I can mount them! Lots of Stans fluid to help with punctures. It's a 25 with 25 miles of hills there and back to warm up and cool down.

I've ordered some of the Bird tape too.

I'll have another crack once my thumbs have recovered from excessive tyre fitting.

I was really struggling to get Magic Mary onto Hope Tech Enduro wheels. Tried all sorts but I built one of these last night;

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/how-to-make-a-tubeless-inflator-44290/

2 wraps of stans, core out the valve, 80psi into the bottle. First time on both wheels!

After years of relatively easy tubeless tyre usage across MTB, road and CX bikes I am completely stumped by what should be an easy one - Hutchison Toro tubeless ready CX tyres on an Easton Haven UST wheel. Soapy water, Airshot, valve core out, tube in, toestrap to splay the tyre round the valve. Nothing working. Had to give up yesterday and have just had to move them out of my eye line in the workshop to avoid losing more hours of my (working) life.

Might have another go at them tonight, but will be trying more ale with them... Maybe even some gin if things get really sticky.

Wynne, let this be a thread to share frustrations about failed tubeless attempts!

I'm going to order some Bird tape and some more sealant and have another go next week.

For some bizarre reason, in my head, it feels like a massive handicap having tubes back in! Totally irrational, but I can't help it.

...on using tape with true UST rims and tyres?

I'm getting the impression that people tend to use it anyway.

I never did; there was no need with UST rims, so why would you?

these are all tips I have picked up on forums and from mates.

tight new tyres, turn them inside out at least overnight before fitting them, it seems to stretch the bead.

Once on the rim, run a tyre lever around the inside to lift the bead and seat it.

with new tape I put a tyre on with a tube in and high pressure to seat the tape. Be careful with damaging the tape when levering tight tyres onto the rim.

My main issue has been leaks from spoke holes and I use a dab of clear silicone to seal them.

Wynne - you sure there isn't a sneaky hole / gap in the rim tape?

There is no tape - it's a completely sealed UST rim bed. Other tyres have gone up first time on them with just a track pump and stayed up without sealant.

As I say, more gin should sort it.

Well, my plan went well, then badly...

Tape arrived VERY quickly from Bird... all fitted.... I then looked and realised i've used up all my tubeless valves hahahahaha.

What's the general consensus on using tape with true UST rims and tyres?

I'm getting the impression that people tend to use it anyway.

No need, why would you? I certainly don't.

So I just built a ghetto tubeless inflator- thanks for posting the link aldo56!

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/how-to-make-a-tubeless-inflator-44290/

It might not be the easiest way to go tubeless but certainly one of the cheapest!! £3.41 for the plastic tubing (I had some Stan's super goo and yellow tape already). Very happy!

Tips if you are struggling:

1. More layers of tape if tyre is baggy- electrical or gaffer tape will do if you already have at least one layer of Stan's yellow tape on.

2. A good slosh all the way round the rim with washing liquid mixed with (not much!) water. This is also useful for seeing if their any bubbles coming through the sidewall after it's inflated.

3. Take the valve core out to get the bead seated

i had mixed resulst on 2 sets of wheels for my old bike.
first set were a pair of dt swiss rims using stans tape. all went perfectly well.
second set of rims were wider atomlab dhr rims so i used gorilla tape but with no success...air seems to leak out near the valve hole so thinking i had cut the hole for the valve too big i started again
second attempt worked and the tyres inflated but went down overnight and wouldnt inflate again..so again i started again
LBS suggested i sue a proper kit and sold me a caffelatex kit that came with the strips with the valve attached. so i tried that and it worked but the tryes went down overnight so i re inflated them and after about 2 minutes of adding about 40psi to seat the bead the rear tyre blew off...it ripped the bead open and left me covered in sealant....the shocking bit was that the sealant congealed overnight so its hadnt done it job...hence why it leaked air in the first place...i scraped the mess out of what was left of the tyre and it looked like a flipping omelette!!
tried again with more gorilla tape but this time i added more layers to try and reduce the gap but again no such luck!!
ive even tried using 20" tubes but again no joy so i eventually admitted defeat and stuck tubes back in them

new bike came with tubeless wheels already set up but i still have the old bike which i'm going to rebuild onto a small hardtail for gonzy jr...i'll stick the dt swiss wheels back on and i may have another crack at the atomlab wheels again at some point

Aside from them being unbelievably hard to remove and mount, and not seating the valves properly, leading to immediate leaks, the job was straightforward.

It's reading things like this that puts me off - people who run tubeless seem to have a different frame of reference for what words like "straightfoward" and "easy" mean. I think I'll stick to tubes thanks!

gonzy - Member
i had mixed resulst on 2 sets of wheels for my old bike.
first set were a pair of dt swiss rims using stans tape. all went perfectly well.
second set of rims were wider atomlab dhr rims so i used gorilla tape but with no success...air seems to leak out near the valve hole so thinking i had cut the hole for the valve too big i started again
second attempt worked and the tyres inflated but went down overnight and wouldnt inflate again..so again i started again
LBS suggested i sue a proper kit and sold me a caffelatex kit that came with the strips with the valve attached. so i tried that and it worked but the tryes went down overnight so i re inflated them and after about 2 minutes of adding about 40psi to seat the bead the rear tyre blew off...it ripped the bead open and left me covered in sealant....

Have you tried sealing the tyre/rim and then adding sealant after?

Have you tried sealing the tyre/rim and then adding sealant after?

thats how i did them...once the tyre bead has popped into the rim i add the sealant through he valve core...but for some reason the atomlab rims dont like going tubeless...the tyres now refuse to pop onto the rim...to be fair the rim is quite deep so i'm going to have to add a few more layers of tape to the rim to build the height up s the tyre doesnt drop into the rim

Might be TT'ing on my tubulars! My mistake seems to be not tightening the valves enough. Front one wouldn't seal at all with the contents of the airshot gushing out everywhere through the carbon fairings. Have removed tyre with NEW Topeak tyre lever, and tightened valve. It did seal a non tubeless GP 4 Seasons, which I put back on to test the valve - it being easier to take off again!!!

Then called away for a few hrs with the corsa speed back on and valve core out. Oh the anticipation ;-).

I've found Schwalbe OK, particularly on proper Mavic UST rims, but on other rims I have added appropriate layers of tape.

The hope tech enduro rim looks like it has a deep well in the middle, which isn't ideal for getting tubeless to seal as if the beads drop in there it's not going up easily... Obviously remove the valve core if you're having difficulties.

With all tyres , but particularly ones that are loose fitting it makes life much easier if you lift the bead out of the well and onto the edge of the rim . You can do this with your hands if you wish or use a tyre lever to lift the bead .

Positive: Front tyre is mounted
Negative: Valve on my Joe Blow must be of, because the Airshot blew out the internal valve well before 160 PSI 🙁

Mounted, filled with Stans and appears to be holding air. Of course I used a CO2 for the final fill, so have probably frozen the latex solid.

Time for another Silca (lost my original in a move)

Ramsey, that was the last thing I tried before giving in to tubes 🙂

Just need more tape is all (I hope!).

[b]Just had the easiest tubeless fitting ever. Specialized Slaughter Grid 26x2.3 onto Easton EA70 UST rims. Prepared rim and bead with soapy cloth, removed valve core, and pumped up by hand with a track pump. Didn't even have to pump like a crazed maniac, in comparison with past efforts, I barely put any effort into it.[/b]

A previous tubeless attempt to fit an already used Kenda Nevegal Pro on same rims, was nightmare. Tried that "trick" of lifting the bead onto the rim as shown in video above... Absolutely useless, it just doesn't work. Un-seating one side after seating tyre with inner tube has always worked for me using with a track pump.

Just remembered one bright idea I had once to cut an inner tube opposite to the valve and seal each end air tight (using zip ties 😳 ). Then the rim could be seated using this [i]special[/i] inner tube and to remove it, just open up a small gap between rim and bead. 😳

Absolutely useless, it just doesn't work

It so does .

gonzy - Member
Have you tried sealing the tyre/rim and then adding sealant after?
thats how i did them...once the tyre bead has popped into the rim i add the sealant through he valve core...but for some reason the atomlab rims dont like going tubeless...the tyres now refuse to pop onto the rim...to be fair the rim is quite deep so i'm going to have to add a few more layers of tape to the rim to build the height up s the tyre doesnt drop into the rim

Another option is to remove the valve and use a rim-strip to pack it out. Adding more and more weight though :(.

Ramsay Neil's post is good info.