I’m looking at one now. It looks like it should be a good bike for “all mountain” (as the marketing people would have it)…plenty of travel etc. And Turner have a good reputation.

Anyone got one and care to share any thoughts about it?

My basic criteria is ‘about 5 inches travel’, reasonably slack, doesn’t weigh a ton, good quality

They’re rubbish.

I’ve never ridden the new DW link version but my HL is the best bike I have ever ridden and people seem to think the DW is an improvement. Why not look at this link and see if it whets your appetite?

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/turner-pics-again-come-on-lets-see-some

Very good bikes, do it all.
Mine has lasted 7 years of abuse.
Having said that I havent ridden anything more up to date in 7 yrs so who am I to judge?

Best bike I’ve ever had.

Also the most versatlie bike I’ve ever had – can be built light, mid-weight or burly and it will do it all.

Ride mine year-round each weekend for all-round MTB rides, but built it burly last summer and DH’d it all week in Morzine (it was fantastic at that) and equally have swapped wheels, forks, shock etc over and have done a few XC races on it – in fact I’ll be doing just that next weekend at the Brass Monkey’s 1st round.

The fact it has excellent build quality and the very best warranty in the entire industry are additional benefits!

Great bike. Best I’ve owned and I’ve had a few.
Get the 2011 though, the geo is spot(!) on.

loved mine whilst i had it although they do come up short in the top tube compared to other manufacturers.

easy to services the bushes etc too

Hora to the forum please. Repeat: Hora to the forum please

I believe he has a 2011 for sale. As good as unused 😀

I adore mine. Its 7/8 years old now but there’s nothing out there that really makes me want to change it. In fact why should I change, it still works like it did on day 1.

Build it as light or as burly as you want.

The only problem I’ve ever seen reported is slightly dicky paint occasionally. I had mine back to them after a couple of months because a large flake fell off around the front mech. It was sorted with no questions or hassle.

Depends what sort of Geometry you like but the 2011 is different to the 2010.

It depends how you like to ride etc but the 2010 is more old school geometry. The 2011 is IMO totally different to ride. (Remember the geo on Turners site relates to 2011 not 2010). There is a typo as well (looking at the mtbr forum)- the large 2011 has a shorter reach. In addition the headtubes are the same length (quite long) but the 2011 can use a zero-stack headset which makes a big difference on the front end height. If you run longer forks on the 2010 you are at the risk (due to the headtube length, headset stack) of having a wandery-front/feels too tall etc.

So…I’d be careful about pulling the trigger as I did the same thinking ‘cheap’! and immediately thought ‘oh’ when I’d built it up. WorksComponent headset and bushings still didn’t cure it. Thankfully I had a warranty issue on my 2010 which meant a 2011 came to me as a replacement 🙂

It still has a offset bushing in the bottom of the shock – feels good but not great at 160mm travel (even though the frame is rated to 160).

I like the 2011 but tbh an Enduro is soo neutral that it makes any nervous rider feel better. The 2010 5spot made me even more nervous by comparison.

The good thing about the DW link is I found in certain sections its good to actually sit down as it gives you more traction- whereas on some bikes you have to stay out of the saddle. True or not?? (just wondering!)

Hmm interesting comments.

I’ve found 2010 frames for a good price. Did the head angle change for 2011 or did they just shorten it and ‘slam’ the front end (as the kids would put it)?

I’ve just spotted the 3 yr warrantly…that’s pretty cool!

I love mine – it’s been at various states of build from 26 to 34lbs – and it’s currently fulfilling the role of ‘all-day Alpine bike’ for my wife. Fox 36, CCDB, 819 rims and it’s bombproof. Not as good at DH as a DH bike (duh!) but easily slack enough for all-day descending, and light enough to pedal without a lift.

Oh, and I’ve not managed to break it in 5 years. That’s not something I can say about much else.

Ii have a medium 2010 flux and it has a really short headtube think its 110mm

69 degree head angle (on 2010 frame) seems a bit steep by today’s standards…

Have a read through this sub-forum. Maybe some help on here? http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/trying-decide-between-2010-2011-5-spot-645750.html

From memory its a degree and a half? off the headtube and upto 1/2inch off the BB.

69 degree head angle (on 2010 frame) seems a bit steep by today’s standards…

If you buy the medium- the headtube is short enough so you can fit a 1.5degree works component. So the medium is definitely moddable/etc to make it ‘modern’. Also – its a fairly long toptube so you’d be laughing with a raw one 8) if your circa 510/511 IMO 🙂

If its a large though you can only get a 1degree due to the headtube length and the stack makes the bike too high.

I love mine, haven’t ridden it since spring though due to preference for the roadie and lack of time.

It’s worth mentioning that the 2012 model is coming out soon. Turner has already discounted the 2011’s on the site, so I’d expect them to come down in price over here soon.
One point I must mention is that I was not at all happy with the RP23 on this frame so I put a coil on it and it’s mega now.

Been riding my Large 2011 5Spot for the last few weeks and have to say it’s superb. Went from a TNT Flux to the 5SPot and although the toptube is shorter I don’t feel cramped. I’m running 150mm tapered forks with an inset top race and external Bottom race which slightly slackens the head angle but it still climbs like a scalded cat with no noticeable lift from the front end and point it down hill and it’s soo much fun.

One point I must mention is that I was not at all happy with the RP23 on this frame so I put a coil on it and it’s mega now.

I’ve seen/heard this a few times now. I must admit the RP23 does feel ‘stilted’ (if thats the right word)?

RP23 takes a while to bed in more than a couple of weeks 😉

😆

So – note to anyone considering a 5spot.

If you want a large -WAIT until the 2011 come up reduced. It’ll be worth it. Honest.

If your a medium- get the 2010- its easier to mod and the headtube isn’t a ridiculous length.

Just to provide a counter-argument to the points on geometry above:

I’ve run my 2010 (and 2009 before it) DW Spots with the ‘older’ head angle and found them perfect.

Set up with 140mm or 150mm forks they are fast-reacting, flickable, singletrack flyers that give you everything you’d want from a rip-it-up trail bike.

My 2010 Spot set up with 160mm coil Lyriks, which is how I use it now as as singeltrack/trail bike, knocks the head angle back by the same amount as the 2012 bikes. It moves your weight slightly rearwards too – and feels BRILLIANT like that. SO much so, that it’s stayed in that config for the past 6 months and will do so.

No reason not to run 160mm forks on a 2009 or 2010 DW Spot therefore…

My 2010 Spot set up with 160mm coil Lyriks, which is how I use it now as as singeltrack/trail bike, knocks the head angle back by the same amount as the 2012 bikes

No- the 2011/2012 keeps it slack and the whole front lower. Putting 160’s on a 2010 merely puts the bars higher and therefore the BB also higher.

It makes the bike taller. Something that isn’t good IMO.

I’ve had a 2008 for about 2 years.

Been a bit of a love/hate relationship, maybe because I was expecting to be blown away by a frame with such a reputation.

The RP23 that came on it was dogshit so I swapped out for pushed Van R which transformed the ride no end. Also, HA was a bit steep, even when I stuck the Lyriks on so I’ve put a Works headset on to slacken it a bit.

Overall, decent bike but certainly no better than the Meta it replaced, albeit bombproof by comparison.

Not sure its worth the premium over non-boutique brands tbh. I’m selling mine in the new year and getting a Zesty.

I’ve jumped on a couple of Zesty’s and they do feel sat-in straight away compared to the sat ontop 2010 5spot.

Longterm users- how do the journal bearings hold up? They’re quite expensive to change aren’t they!

+1 Digger, a 2009 5 Spot with 36s geometry is pretty sorted.

No- the 2011/2012 keeps it slack and the whole front lower. Putting 160’s on a 2010 merely puts the bars higher and therefore the BB also higher.

It makes the bike taller. Something that isn’t good IMO.

It’s not true that it merely puts the bars and BB higher Hora. It also shifts the rider’s weight slightly rearwards, alters the steering geometry to be identical to 2012 DW Spot head angle, making the steering feel very different, makes the front end plusher etc and yes, it also raises the BB height very marginally, but not in a detrimental manner at all.

Plenty of owners have done it and plenty like it is all I’m saying. No reason to not go for a 2009/2010 Spot.

Does anyone else on here prefer a slightly steeper head angle and prefer the whippier steering feeling that comes along with it?

+1 Zesty 🙂

No reason to not go for a 2009/2010 Spot.

I agree but putting your weight back unloads the front i.e. easier to wash out? Plus putting the bars and BB higher makes it abit unstable at higher speeds?

I agree but putting your weight back unloads the front i.e. easier to wash out?

When I’m riding a mountain bike I sometimes shift my weight forwards or backwards depending on what I’m going over. Do you think this might be of use in that situation?

I thought it was better to have neutal balance – i.e. positioned over centre with slight shifts front and aft. If you are already back on the bike then you aren’t balanced.

Plus – good to avoid pedal strikes but I always thought low and long = stabled at speed. From reading around (when looking at slackening my 2010 5spot) I found that the 2010 would be better with 140 or 150. Even my 2011 is probably at its optimum at 150. Just because a frame is rated upto a certain travel (I.e. it can take it) doesn’t mean its designed FOR 160mm. Does it?

For instance (ok its a totally different frame- my old Blur4x could take a fork upto 160 but it was brilliant/perfect at 140).

This is of course all IMO.

So on the 2010 the had angle is 68.6 or 69?
My Heckler is 69 and feels spot on, i have already hit the button on CRC then called to cancel the order, now im thinking abut buying one again.

2010 is 69. Theres NOTHING wrong with your Heckler- less pivots to change and worry about (especially over winter).

There is more to bike geometery than simple HA. Wheel base for example length will influence stability and manouverability. I think its more a combination of the whole. Try before you buy?

2010 is 69. Theres NOTHING wrong with your Heckler- less pivots to change and worry about (especially over winter)

I know this, i love my Heckler, The blurb on the net says the Heckler and 5 spot have very similar front geometry makng it more appealing to me. I just fancy a 5 spot and at that price i can afford one.

Store the Heckler, buy the 5spot and in a few months etc sell the ‘loser’.

Or you could sell the Heckler to me. I want a winter frame and the gritstone creates havoc on pivots etc round here

£650 and it’s yours. Where are you based?

I had a 2004 HL spot up until this summer. Ridden year round at least twice a week, and sometimes commuted on. Bombproof. Wonderful bike. Changed the bushings twice in that time.

It was replaced by a 2010 DW. This bike took me over 3 months to “click with”. Now the “click” has taken place it is just brilliant.

Does anyone else on here prefer a slightly steeper head angle and prefer the whippier steering feeling that comes along with it?

Me!