That’s one advantage of Di2, you could run MTB mechs to get the rear mech with the clutch in it (at a price).

belugabob – I think they all look like that, I have seen some bars on the market now have a recess her to help the hose not stick out.

vortexracing – if your buying SPD peddals don’t buy XT, get down to Halfords for some “Boardman MTB Pro”, they are lighter at 285g and really well made, more like XTR, and only £25.

I find that bulged area perfect to be honest. Not really much different to my Campag set-up.

I suppose it depends on how tight you want to bend the hose and cables.

Already got a set of the Boardman pedals, and even cheaper if uou use your BC card.

Update on the V2 – I can’t find any more yokozuna cables easily available (I need new sets as the routing is different/longer, plus, you know, new stuff…) so have opted for Jagwire compressionless – will see how they compare.
Should hopefully be here soon, so can start building the frame up.
However, I’ll still not be able to ride it as it’s 12mm bolt through rear, and the 9mm QR rear dropouts aren’t available till mid december.
Ho hum..

DrP

Gosh, just looked on the Upgrade site. Lotta money, but lovely.
What’s that thing on the drive side chainstay for then? – Oh, it’s where the internally routed cable emerges innit?

I thought it was for a fag end….

DrP

the area where the cables/hoses emerge from the shifters would be “chunky”. Currently building my Kinesis Racelight 4S disc, and only have the shifter cable attached, at the moment, but was concerned that they don’t really hug the bars. Probably going to be chunkier when the brake hoses go in.

On mine (4S disc, RS685 shifters) I’ve got the hoses and cables routed to the back of the bars which means you can take an easier bend in the gear cable whilst keeping them tight to the bars. The rear of those shifters is inherently quite bulky because of the placement of the connector for the brake hose, but I actually quite like the feel of it.

On another bike I’ve got gear cable and hose routed to the front and taped tight to the bars following a very tight bend. I used a short section of brake outer to get it round that first bend without too much friction.

However, I’ll still not be able to ride it as it’s 12mm bolt through rear, and the 9mm QR rear dropouts aren’t available till mid december.

yes, but theride will be so much better now it’s 12mm.

On mine (4S disc, RS685 shifters) I’ve got the hoses and cables routed to the back of the bars which means you can take an easier bend in the gear cable whilst keeping them tight to the bars

Yes, I’ve got them routed to the rear of the bars, too, on the basis that my fingers will be mostly round the front.
Starting on the hoses tomorrow, so it will become clearer at that point.
Thanks for the feedback, folks.

…or worse, seeing as i don’t have 12mm bolt through wheels..!

DrP

Insurance question… As the new V2 frames are much more expensive.. should i up the amount my bike is worth? Replacement value has gone up £500 or so..

Where did you get £500 from?

Tripster V1 is £1350, unless onsale at £1250 – lets be generous and say £1350.

Tripster V2 Frame £1664
(best price so far: https://www.merlincycles.com/kinesis-tripster-atr-ti-v2-disc-frameset-97253.html)
Tripster Flatmount 12mm thru Fork £280
Headset no longer included £50

Tripster v2 frameset price: £1994
Increase: £644

That’s why after months of waiting, well since Feb so what 8-9 months, my bike will not be built around a Tripster V2 frame 😥

£500 was a guesstimate.. I knew they had gone up but to replace my bike it would cost an extra £x (£640 ish)

Where did you get £640 from?

It’s clearly £644! 😆

I don’t think my Tripster is even on the insurance.. 😯

How much has this years GF disc gone up ?

Assume it is a simlair amount.

I think Kinesis must have recruited someone onto their pricing team who used to work at SJS Cycles…

forgotrafe you should have an email re the frame if not can you pop me a quick mail to martinvarey at yahoo.com

ta

Hey all,

Pricing has gone up for so many reasons but the main ones being: Dollar strength against the pound plus lots more work and complex tubing in the new frame construction.

The new one is now on the Kinesis UK website http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Models/Adventure/Tripster-ATR-V2

and there’s even a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-l1cETOmlQ&t=5s
but ask any questions you’d like and I’ll reply when I can.

Look forward to seeing more exciting builds soon.. I’ve ordered one myself!

How many years warranty on the frame Bruce?

We have 3 years on the frames whitecitadel but we then offer a favourable crash replacement policy on everything after that where we do a third off the retail price of the item.

Hope that helps!

Has anyone tried the V1 Tripster with 650b wheels?
Just curious as to whether it’s worth getting hold of a cheap set and giving it a go?

I’ve tried Googling it but not managed to find anything.

What sort of tyres would you look to use, something like 1.8″ MTB ones?

Something like that, not really sure what size tyres it would take with 650b wheels.

Just toying with the idea after reading a couple of things about the Open UP and the Mason Bokeh.

I would like also, if possible, to use 650b wheels with my Tripster V1 frame. Would the bottom bracket height allow that? The Kinesis web site says that they have “adjusted” the BB height on the V2, I suppose it’s been increased but how much? Anyone has the old geometry table for comparison?

notmyrealname: I posted this on page 66 (I need to figure out quoting and adding photos again!)

I am also running tubeless 650b Mavic Crossmax XL wheels with Maxis Pace tyres at 1.95 or Panaracer Gravel Kings at 1.75. The hub was 10 speed but I fitted an Edco Monblock on which converts it into 11 speed.

The 650b wheels and tyres are a hoot and just add another dimension to what is a very versatile bike. I commute, tour, do dirt rides and sportives and the bike soaks it up. I now ride it so much that I’m having a clear out of my other bikes.

Now I’ve spent more time on it I’ve gone back to 700c. 1.95 clearance, which is the max I could meake work, doesn’t give too many options on tyres. I’m also looking at the Bokeh to add to th n+1. My wife has a Mason Definition which is fantastic. We cycled to our French home in the Dordogne this summer. Both the ATR and Definition were brilliant and showed how versatile they are: Touring bike and road bike. We also did a few gravel tracks when we were there.

Could the Maxxis IKON 27.5×1.95 fit?

It looks like it will. I fitted Maxxis Pace to mine.

Antonella – don’t have my spreadsheet in front of me but bb drop is 70mm on V1 and 65mm on V2 from memory. Other competing frames are also 65mm I noticed it seems common number at the moment. I was looking at 58cm frame, would assume bb drop same on all though.

frame from sale on bike and bivvy (not mine)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1375318136020037/

I’m not exactly a big poster on the forums, more a silent reader but thought it worthwhile sharing the completed (for now) beast having gained so much useful knowledge from this thread.

The bike is simply stunning. A true do it all, reliable, trusty steed. I spent most of last year bimbling around on a £300 Eastway, treated myself to a fancy carbon road bike earlier this year, didn’t like it, and now have this which does both jobs. Fab.

55.5 Frame (I’m 6’0″)
CX Disc wheels with Tubeless Vittoria Hyper Tyres (35c)
SKS Chromoplastic Guards
Tubeless Airy Ti Rack
Apex/Tiagra Gearing (from the Eastway – refuses to break!!)
SpyreC brakes
Basic Shimano SPD’s (M520s?)
Fabric Saddle
Connext XR Flared Bars
Lizard Skin Tape
Bell 😉
Deda Carbon Seat Post
70mm Stem (£5 CRC sale jobby!)

Cheers, Ben

I badly need to get one of those tubus ti racks. Compliments the frame perfectly.

They are a lovely bit of kit, it’s just a little disconcerting when you have the bend and tweak the stays 😯

Anyone fancy swapping their (V1) frame for mine?

Your 55.5 or 54 for my 57?

London-based, and a Tripster-owner since buying new from Winstanleys in May ’16.

Since starting my commute, it’s become clear the size isn’t ideal

My mail is in my profile!

Thanks, Rick – Ealing

Merlin have the version 2 frame on sale, with an extra 10% off till new year.

Brings the frame/fork combo to about £1700

No stock of v1 frame unfortunately.

Great thread, its like a tripster owners club 😉

V2 frame received, built up, and ridden. Thanks to upgrade and AJ cycles, and some super speedy service from Hunt wheels in Christmas week supplying 12mm wheel adaptor parts. No pictures yet as its a bit of a lash up while I sort out what’s going on it and positions.

The frame is lovely and just makes me want to stoke it constantly, really like the fact I can assemble it with no pressing or hammering required for bearing races. Mighty confusing though for a while that the fork has an integrated lower race and the bearing sits on it directly……..or I have seriously messed up!

Interesting reading they have increased the gauge on the V2 downtube, why is that? As that’s where mine and DrP’s cracked.

Guess its because it has several holes in it now? I will say though I was quite shocked by the frame weight, 1900g for a 67cm. But hopefully that will make it Jack proof, this one is going to be worked very hard.

opps should have said 57cm size

Mighty confusing though for a while that the fork has an integrated lower race and the bearing sits on it directly……..or I have seriously messed up!

I had the same confusion when I built my V1 up.
I called Upgrade and they reassured me that it was an integrated lower race and that I wasn’t going mad after all!

My lovely v1 is looking a bit worse for wear scratch wise. Does anyone have the scotchbrite number to bring it back to factory finish please? TIA

Autosol metal polish works well if you want a bit of shine to it

Can anybody help on sizing of this frame please?
The charts appear a little different to what I’m used to.
At 183cm I usually ride a ETT of 55 or 56cm. According to the kinesis height guide I would be on a 57 or 60cm frame. The HTA on this frame is very laid back though so this might affect things.

Anybody of similar height have any experiences to share with regard to sizing please?

@hugor – bike fit is not a simple case of height, as you have to take leg/torso/arm length into account. (Riding style is a factor, too)
The only real way to tell, is to sit on (and, preferably, test ride) one. Whether this is at a shop (tricky, due to the tripster being frame only) or by borrowing one, depends on where you are.
Alternatively, identify a more common bike with geometry as close as possible to the Tripster, and arrange to ride one of those.

hugor, as per my previous posts in this thread, I would strongly advise you not to rely on the Kinesis height guide (especially on its own and ignoring the other measurements compared with what you usually ride).

In my case, I am 178cm, and the 57cm should fit me perfectly (Kinesis suggest a height range of 174cm-184cm for the 57cm, so I am in the middle of the range). Instead it is far too large, and the 54cm is a much better fit which closely approximates to the ETT of my normal road bikes, despite my supposedly being too tall for the 54cm (Kinesis suggest a range of 166cm to 176cm). Kinesis do advise to size down when you are uncertain about choosing between two sizes, but I still think they have got the suggested heights wrong.

In your case, I suspect the 60cm would likewise be far too big. Whether the 57cm or 55.5cm would be best for you will probably depend on your own riding style/normal position and preferences. So if you prefer the bars higher for a more upright (touring) position you might prefer the 57cm, whereas if you prefer to have a lot of drop from saddle to bars and prefer to replicate the more aero position you might have on a road race style bike, then you may prefer the 55.5cm. Although the 54cm has a 55cm ETT, I suspect it would be too small unless you are very flexible and have an extremely aero position. Obviously each size is adaptable by varying the height of headset spacers and length of stem, but I think you would find that the geometry would mean that using a long stem, e.g. 120mm, to compensate for too short an ETT would noticeably slow the steering (especially noticeably off road), and to some extent vice versa. One thing I did notice with the greater saddle to bars drop of the 54cm compared with the 57cm, is that it meant I had better weight distribution (more weight on the front, which improved the control/feel when riding off road on the hoods). Hope this helps.