Morning folks,
Having spent years listening to everyone telling me "don't do it", "it's not you it's other road users" etc etc I'm fed up of listening and am going to look at sorting a bike out in the next 6 months.
Questions
1) I've heard the direct access is no longer available.. what's the best way to get a licence these days?
2) Not really sure what sort of bike to go for, sports/ sports tourer or something else?
3) I'm 30 live in a nice postcode with a garage that can have a ground anchor point... what's insurance likely to be on different options?
4) Am I best to start small and get a bigger bike later on?.. my view is I'm good at being sensible when I need to be, I've never crashed a car and have owned some 200bhp plus cars from when I was fairly young.
Obviously what I want it for will have a bearing on the above questions... but in all honestly the answer is just I want one because they look fun and I've enjoyed riding scooters on holiday when I've rented them.
I'll probably to ride to work and back a few days a week when its not raining and I know I'm going to be leaving in rush hour (hope to beat some of the queues). I work 10 miles from where I live with Nottingham city slap bang in the middle of the two points.
Occasional rides for the sake of it out to country pubs etc.
Probably use it when I'm in one of my regular states of annoyance with commuting over 6,000,000,000 speed bumps every day.
Any advice on getting started much appreciated.
Paul
Getting started = CBT.
I did DAS, my first bike was a CB500. Honda build quality, and 'just enough' bike to put a big grin on my face without throwing me into a hedge on a whim.
If I were doing it over, I think I'd be looking at something like a CBF600S or an SV. The 600s were out of budget for me at the time, the only ones I could afford were either knackered, ragged or both. BMW GS650 is a nice ride too, handles beautifully.
Direct access is still available as you're old enough. But it is slightly different as they've changed the modules now.
I'd do a CBT and get a small bike first, just to see if you like it.
I've just done mine (again) and am now trying desperately to rebulid an old 125 before the end of summer!
Can I ride a small bike on just a cbt? Do I have to put L plates on if I do?
If you assume that every car driver is trying to kill you, you'll be OK!
I'm loving my Triumph Tiger 800, I would imagine that it would make a good first bike. These 'adventure' style bikes are good for traffic, the upright seating position lets you see better and they tend to be very comfy. Good for pillions, too. Having said that, I got an SV 12 years ago when I got back into biking and loved that. too. Since that I've had 5 Hinckley Triumphs and they've all been good bikes. Speed triples are fun .....
For 10 miles to work, just do your CBT and buy a 125cc scoot now.
Worry about passing your test and/or bigger bikes later.
My Africa Twin use to be pretty handy over speed bumps. Not so good two up over the same bumps though.
Did my CBT 1991 and spent 6 months on a KLE 500 before progressing to a Fireblade. I had a bit of dirt bike background so was fairly confident. Still the first time I opened it up it I was hooked. Now I'm not so sure with super sport bikes. Used to cramp up on the blade for the first 10000 miles or so so rearsets were out of the question. There is stuff I did back then that I wouldn't dream of doing but I suppose that come with getting older.
Currently riding a Dorsoduro 750 would love an 990 Adventure but not the servicing routine. At 6ft 4in and an 106kg ( ex rower) I need a big bike. Let's say a 29er of the motorbike world.
Did mine at 29 for similar reasons. It transformed how I enjoyed the roads - traffic, pootling sunday drivers, etc just aren't a problem.
As said, do a CBT and try it out - but I wouldn't bother buying a small bike. You can hire 125s very cheaply for practice from most schools and not have to worry about insurance, etc. If you're happy with the school, instructors, etc then they can walk you through what you need to do for DAS.
Buy a bike you want. Take a wander around some of the bigger dealers, sit on some, see what takes your fancy. For me it was a Ducati Monster (which I still have nearly 4 years on) but really, if you're not an idiot you'll be fine on almost anything.
thebikeinsurer.co.uk will compare insurers to give you an idea of costs.
Thanks for the info guys,
What's high mileage for a bike? Cars I tend to have a 100k cut off point if i want it to last 3-5 years.
I like the look of this, would an 80's bike cost a lot to keep running?
chilled76... that bike is an eysore, it will be way faster than its handling should allow, just buy a bike shaped bike or a chopper, the inbentweeny thing is awful*. (*personal opinion)
Plus 1
I agree. An abomination. How about a 'modern' Enfield as a left field choice? People would certainly hear you coming ....
High mileage on a bike seems to be 5000/year! Ridiculous, I know. Especially because most modern bikes seem fairly bombproof if fed good oil regularly and the valve checks done on time.
Really... I must have inexperienced bike eyes, to me it looks really pretty.
What's high mileage for a bike? Cars I tend to have a 100k cut off point if i want it to last 3-5 years.
20k is considered high mileage. This may well be cock, but it is.
I like the look of this, would an 80's bike cost a lot to keep running?
Yes.
chilled76 - MemberWhat's high mileage for a bike?
Apparently the average mileage is 3000 miles per year and the average lifespan is 6 years! Meaning many bikes get written off or scrapped before the engine is fully run in. Obviously this is all skewed by weekend warriors, garage queens etc. Personally I'd rather buy something that gets ridden, most of the issues I had with mine in the early days were from the 2 years it'd been parked not from the 15000 miles it did in the year before. God knows what it'll be like now after 3 years parked up...
The good news is, this means you can get a great bike with "high" miles for good money. I'm really out of touch with what's good now but there's a reason so many people buy something like an SV650 to start with- proper bikes, inexpensive, durable, cheap to run.
Is this more acceptable?
[url= http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201305086643740/sort/recpriceascdefault/usedbikes/price-from/500/model/xv/make/yamaha/page/1/postcode/ng93fw/radius/60?logcode=p ]Pretty[/url]
Do you want a bike you like, or a bike other people like?
Best way of working that out what you get on with really is to go to a shop and ask nicely if you can throw your leg over a few.
Both, can't have other bikers thinking I look like a nob... be like owning a 29er!
(-:
Better, not my cup of tea, but Cougar is right its got nothing to do with me, its your bike, if your happy riding something gay looking & want to dress it up with horse brasses & leather panniers with studs its none of my business.. 🙂
chilled76 - MemberIs this more acceptable?
The Tart's Handbag
They fill a small market niche, of cruisers for women who've inexplicably been allowed to ride a bike rather than being perched on the back of a fat bloke's harley.
Check the rear downpipe, they have a water trap which means they're almost designed to rust through. Iffy handling, and slightly odd looks, it's too tall and short when you see it in the metal so it's trying for cruiser but ends up not quite managing it. Not a bad engine, considering, and pretty reliable though the finish isn't very good. I would advise that you seek professional help 😉
At least it's not a Sportster.
This was my 125, incidentally:
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It was a bag of shit. But I liked it, and parked beside a 535 it looked more like a proper bike.
The world according to Kevin Ash -
First, you must complete a Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) course before being allowed out on the road. With this, and a provisional licence, you can ride a moped (defined as less than 50cc and restricted to 28mph) with L-plates.
THEN - you can go for the A1 licence. With CBT and theory in the bag, passing the two modules of the practical test now entitles you to ride any bike up to 125cc without L-plates.
THEN - at 19 or older are you allowed to go for the A2 licence category, which covers motorcycles up to a power output of 47bhp. This includes some decent and interesting bikes, many of which have more power as standard but can be restricted to 47bhp (as long as their unrestricted power output is no more than 94bhp).
ALSO - there’s the full A licence, which you can apply for either if you’ve held an A2 licence for two years (in which case you can get one from the age of 21) or, if you’re coming in fresh, you’re at least 24. As with the other licences, the A licence first demands CBT and theory, followed by the two-module practical test,
All a bit of a palaver I know, - however the path to enlightenment is not easy courtesy of the EU and governments who would rather see you in a tin box.
As for bikes, start small up to 500cc. Sages who suggest CBR/GSXR 600'S etc seem to forget that they are faster and more powerful than super-bikes of a previous age, albeit better braked and with superior handling. Get good post test training, even "seasoned" bikers benefit from it.
As for bikes, my 1999 GSXF 750 (yes I know she is ugly) has 30,000 miles, runs like a watch (she is maintained within an inch of her life), does 55 to the gallon, tours two up, is good for nearly 150 empeeh and costs me £98/yr to insure fully comp. I could change it, but it does what is says on the tin for little more than tyres and an oil change - sorted!
So XJ550 'custom' and then a Virago - you can see that you ain't yet a Biker 🙂
A bit like how non-Bikers think that HD's must be the best bikes... 😳
Its usually age that kills bikes, mainly due to been outside/ridden in bad weather. I've put +50k on them and sold on no probs, but I wouldn't buy one with that mileage.
As said, get a Scooter for work and then go from there - no point looking at big bikes until you can actually ride one.
As for bikes, start small up to 500cc. Sages who suggest CBR/GSXR 600'S etc seem to forget that they are faster and more powerful than super-bikes of a previous age, albeit better braked and with superior handling. Get good post test training, even "seasoned" bikers benefit from it.
I did a track day last month and could not believe how more powerful bikes have become in the last ten years, across the board.
Wont be any track day action on a Virago...
Get your CBT, do your direct access, buy a Honda CBR600F, have an amazing amount of fun - touring, scratching, trackdaying, cruising about etc.
The CBR600F is a legendary bike, and there's a reason why so many people buy them as their first bike. They are comfortable, bombproof, fast, forgiving, pillion friendly, easy to maintain, easy to get parts for, not too heavy..the list goes on. I loved mine.
This was in the Alps in 2009. I since sold it with 36,000 on the clock and it was still going like a train..and still is for the new owner. I upgraded it to a CBR1000RR, which is another great bike but you don't forget your first 😉
Well when I said I'm not really sure what to go for.. sports/ sports tourr or something else... guess I'm leaning towards the something else.
Not interested in tracking it or riding it fast, more just enjoying being on two wheels.
Think I'd like to take a relaxed upright approach for a while, may end up buying a sports bike later on... but for now I think a cbr600 is not my cuppa.
I've seen a CBR600F (not the RR) with 70-odd thousand on the clock. Ran beautifully. Held together with gaffer tape in places, though!
That Virago - eughhh! If you're going to get a cruiser, get a Harley 'Sportster' at least it's the real thing. Those 'small' Triumph cruisers look OK, too (America, Speedmaster). Or a Bonneville? Big Triumph fan, me. Moto Guzzi V7 looks fab and loads of heritage in that engine.
If you're going to go straight for a 'proper' bike rather than pissing about on a 125, I'd go for a suzuki bandit/yamaha fazer. They're pretty standard and can be had fairly cheaply second hand now, and you shouldn't make much of a loss if you hate it and sell it on, (unless you throw it down the road)
Think I'd like to take a relaxed upright approach for a while..
Bear in mind that's a CBR600 *F* not an RR so is relatively upright, the bars are above the yoke, which means you're not down on your wrists. It's a comfortable bike. Each to their own though.
Not interested in riding it fast? You will need to at times. I think the most dangerous bikes on the road aren't the fastest ones....they're the slowest ones. Not having the power to get out of the way at lights/junctions or keep ahead/up with the flow of traffic is dangerous IMHO...but you'll find all this out in due course! 😉
Bandit/Fazer also good choices as mentioned, and may be more your cup o' tea.
Looking at the bikes you're linking to and the 'relaxed upright' vibe you're after I would definitely say look at a Triumph Bonneville.
Hmm, I was actually thinking about starting a similar thread to this myself (but I wasn't going to link to a Virago though!).
My thought was something like a XT600/660 as you can get them for not too much, they have a high centre of gravity, I used to tool around the back roads on a XT500 when I was a lad. And, er, well, it should be easy enough to pick up when I drop it....
any thoughts?
I'd love a Speedmaster though!
Suppose i best look Into getting a licence first though... 🙄
Can you do a condensed course for a direct 'full' licence (i havent been on a motorbike since '87 but I'm definitely old enough to qualify...)
My lad did a weekend course, so yes.
I've had a couple of big singles. They tend to wear out faster than multis, so I'd look at a newish low miler.
I did DAS and have had a bmw f650 single ever since. Upright, handles ok, fun at sensible speeds and for a £900 1994 bike its reliable too. It aint fast though. Or pretty.
Doing my DAS this year as I did my CBT/theory last year. Had dreams of a Monster but I think a Honda NC700 is more likely being that the tank is actually storage and it does over 70mpg! Boring but practical... hmm maybe I should just fek it and get the Monster!
[img]
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Droooooooool....... 😛
How much is a DAS?
(ps thanks for the answers above!)
If you only need a 3 day course about £600 (well that's what the place I am going to charges)it includes Mod1 and 2 test fees etc.
Similar to the OP here, for motorized commuting (when I don't cycle) it could make some sense to get a MC...
But I've always been warned about the near certainty of my death if I got a MC, the arguments would be too much bother so I've never bothered with a licence... I'm sure my Missus could be talked round eventually, and I am technically a grown up now...
Recently I've just thougt it makes sense to get a sensible bike to ride to work rather than drive a family estate with just little old me in it. 😳
I've got work mates who are far more into biking, all got sports bikes for getting about, couple of track bikes and some into their offroading too... not sure that would be my bag, but useful people to know...
So whats the best route to go for getting on the road? CBT buy a cheap 125 or 250, then get some lessons booked?
Anyone recommend a school/instructor in Reading / West berks?
Thanks maxray (I just googled and phoned to get the answer myself, should've done that first, duh!)
Guess I need to get a theory test sorted out first of all though.
Oh, I know it dangerous, there's a reason why I haven't been on a bike since '87... 😳
CBT limits you to a 125 and no more than 14.6hp (assuming you're over 17), no motorway riding and L-plates.
I've gone this route as I'm too skint for a DAS, and am handy enough with the spanners to be able to run (when the brakes are sorted) an old 2-stroke 125, which may may slightly* more than 14.6hp.
*double.
Yeah, I did the theory before I booked my CBT, it was the main bit worrying me as I didn't have a theory test as such when I got my car licence.
The CBT guys encourages us to think DAS rather than spending too long on L plates, I am sure there is commercial advantage there but also you don't build up bad habits over time that might be hard to shake and drivers tend to give a motorcycle without L plates a little more respect (in their experience).
Given the price range of the bikes you linked to OP. How about something like this:
CBT limits you to a 125 and no more than 14.6hp (assuming you're over 17), no motorway riding and L-plates.I've gone this route as I'm too skint for a DAS, and am handy enough with the spanners to be able to run (when the brakes are sorted) an old 2-stroke 125, which may may slightly* more than 14.6hp.
Yeah, just went off and googled a bit more, think I'd look for a 125 and maybe spend a while on it before going DAS, can't see much point in the A1, A2 stepping stones approach....
Useful thread, food for thought, I might not mention it to the missus just yet...
out of interest, those who did a CBT first, how long did you spend on L plates?
Max: must admit the thought of the theory test is a bit worrying (well more the embarrassment of failing it more like!).
Is it just the 'car' test or it's it different for bikes? What do you need to do for revision purposes?
The 125 and see-how-you-like-it plan isn't a bad one, it'd give you some experience and over a 10 mile commute it's a pretty perfect size for a bike.
If you do decide to go for something bigger I'd forget about a 500, there really aren't that many available these days (something some of the [s]older[/s] more experienced riders don't seem to have noticed). A nice SH Bandit, Fazer, GSR or similar is plenty fast enough, and still manageable. Don't forget to budget for clothing - that'll easily add another 500 on.
If you can get some post test training do so!
Cookaa thers a training school that do lessons at rivermead and in oxford. Lightening i think they are called. I would go straight to doing the full license as you get more training. I did my cbt as a taster then booked the rest. When you pass your test after a few months get yourself out with thames valley advanced motorcyclists. They improved my riding no end.
Anybody point me to a decent online motorcycle clothing retailer to let me see what's out there?
Also any (sensible) recommendations on helmets?
Caberg do some cheapish decent helmets.
Aldi do some good deals on motorcycle clothes and helmets from time to time. Depends on how much you want to spend.
metalheart - i'll sell you my VFR1200F when you pass yer test - here it is in the Alps last year 🙂
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/62031621@N06/8011699761/ ]IMAG0450[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/62031621@N06/ ]the_lecht_rocks[/url], on Flickr
and here's billy connoly trying it out for size 🙂
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7921530134_644a15fbe4.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7921530134_644a15fbe4.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/62031621@N06/7921530134/ ]IMAG0390[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/62031621@N06/ ]the_lecht_rocks[/url], on Flickr
Did Billy let you try out his bicycle?
difficult in kevlar laden leathers 👿
TLR: no chance! If I go for it I'll be looking for a bike with a) a high centre of gravity (that reduces the chances of me sticking into [i]another[/i] stone dyke) and b) cheap enough that I won't cry when I drop it... cause let's face it, with my history, that is a foregone conclusion.
JEALOUS 😥
Did mine about 20yrs ago and had to sell the bike 10yrs ago when the nipper came along.
Just dont waste an more time if you have he opportunity.
Personally I would go for something with a fairing like a cbr600 as wind buffeting is pretty harsh from 60mph onwards overwise.
Just thinking about going out for a ride gets u grinning from ear to ear -be warned the 10 mile commute can end up being a 30 mile commute, just popping to the office a little earlier today love!
Enjoy
Go for it fella, you won't regret it.
I did CBT first to see how I got on then did a 3 day DAS. Whilst doing the DAS I bought my first bike off ebay 🙂
And what a bike it was. Twins are very forgiving and I loved it. Only sold it as I did not use it as much as I would have liked. So don't pussy around and listen to others saying 'that's too much for a first bike' buy what you want. At the end of the day the bike is only as fast as you want it to be!
I'm glad someone has just said that... as I've just noticed these
[url= http://www4.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201301245035119/sort/recpriceascdefault/usedbikes/model/bt/make/yamaha/radius/1500/page/1/quicksearch/true/postcode/ng93fw?logcode=p ]Bigger bike[/url]
i did my cbt and ran around for about 6 weeks on my suzuki RG125 back in 98.
then went and did my test and got a ZZR1100 kawasaki.
i ran wide on a corner the day after my test, hit the kerb and fell off.
it wasnt speed related, i was doing about 45mph at the time, i just wasnt paying attention.
it was the only incident i had in 3 years of not having a car, only the bike.
i loved it, would do it again, if i was just starting out i would go for a saleable 125, then something like a 600cc bandit/fazer/hornet type bike.
or perhaps a suzuki sv650, decent examples of which can be had for less than £1500 these days.
DO IT!
IME The thing with m/c's is that they're a bit like MTB's, best thing is to start on a HT and learn how to ride - and the last thing I'd recommend is V-Twin sports bike, unless all you intend to do is summer Sunday miles...
Although smaller bikes just aren't available like they use to be, still better to start with something manageable and then move up as you get more experienced. You WILL be a better/safer/faster rider this way.
My history? Mopeds then 250's thru a number of 350LC's and then onto 4-strokes, latterly a pair of 1050's plus a bit of racing. Last accident over 30 years ago (touch wood), which includes many years of all-year commuting (20k in 2011 for example).
FWIW, I reckon there's lots of fun from properly ragging a bike and that's easier/safer with a wee one. You'll learn more about throttle/clutch control too. There are enough smaller bikes around to give you a good feeling of what it's like before stepping up to something a bit bigger.
i did my cbt and ran around for about 6 weeks on my suzuki RG125 back in 98.
then went and did my test and got a ZZR1100 kawasaki.
i ran wide on a corner the day after my test, hit the kerb and fell off.
You're in good company. Tom Sykes did exactly the same thing with a big kwaka last weekend.
Do it! I eventually went for it 5 years ago and have loved every minute. Sure, bikes attract idiots that ride too fast for the conditions/visibility/etc but that doesn't mean you have to be one. It's a cliche but just assume others on the road probably haven't seen you and if they have, are actively trying to kill you. Of course there's a risk but with common sense you can reduce it at least. I also found the training on the CBT was really basic, there's a lot more safety advice given when you do the full DAS course/test (at least when I did it, 5yr ago) which is worth the price alone. As others have said, additional training after the test wouldn't hurt too.
A 125 might be ok for commuting but I think you'd get bored pretty quickly and be missing out on so many of the advantages of a bigger bike - especially being able to overtake on county roads. Riding with friends who have bigger bikes probably won't happen often if you have a 125 either, for that reason...
If you're sensible, in my opinion there's nothing wrong with a 600cc bike, even a sportsbike... I had one for my first bike and loved it. Generally with a 4 cylinder 600 the power is at high revs so you have to make a conscious choice to use it and can grow into it. I'd be cautious of anything much bigger to start with personally, or anything with lots of low down grunt. Insurance is likely to be high on a sportsbike at first, although it came down quickly for me, and only you know if you'd be able to resist the temptation to ride beyond your limits (though it's nice to know the bike will be able to do far, far more than you will ever ask of it) so something in the traditional first big bike category might make more sense. Everyone loves an sv650 🙂
Finally, get something you like the look of... Don't settle for anything less, when you first get a bike you want to be getting home on a dark rainy day and going into the garage just to admire it. Everyone has different tastes in bikes so spend some time looking and figure out what you like (plus fit, comfort, etc but bear in mind that something might seem uncomfortable at first just because it's different...)
All just my opinion of course. 🙂
I must admit, I did a cbt and got a 125 as I had a 3l Alfa (this is about 13 years ago, and the Alfa wasn't new then!) and the mpg of 22-23 was killing men.
I hated my CBT. Some old guy shouting at me as if I was a **** on a moped, despite my 30 odd years. Anyway, I got a 125, thinking that was all I needed. First few rides even on that were a bit scary. Anyway, after about 3m it seems both slow, dangerously so, and a bit pointless, being blown all over the road in the wind, with traffic bunching up behind me on the road. It just "made sense" to get a bigger bike licence, despite not really liking bikes.
And once you get a bigger bike, you can stick where you want. I don't want a super fast sports bike. I started off with a 500, (Kawazaki GPZ) which was entertaining enough, as it was good for 125, and with a 4v head had a bit of a powerband at about 8k which meant it still accelerated like that bit of Star Trek where the Horizon just zaps towards you. took at least 6m for that to become "slow and manageable".
Since then I got to a 650 twin engined SV650, which is a slightly nicer handling slightly faster bike, and its one I can rag a bit whilst remaining within my confidence/ability zone. I dont need any more. Its cheap to buy, insure and tax, light, lowish, and returns 55mpg whist being faster than anything sub Porsche/Ferrari territory on the roads.
Dont feel you HAVE to DAS after CBT, but inside 3m of "acclimatising", you'll porbably want to.
If you can afford it go the DAS route and don't mess about with a 125.
You will enjoy it more and bigger bikes have better brakes, tyres handling etc.
As for a first bike my advice would be just don't get something too heavy. Mate bought an older VFR800 after passing his test. Did a fair old few miles on it including a 3000mile Alps tour with me. Recently I sold him my 09 Street Triple R. He is like a new rider he really is.
I love it not interested in commuting, trackdays and Touring are my thing. But I love it and I don't know many people (if they can stop thinking about the dangers) who don't love it 🙂
PErsonally i'd go for something like a Yamaha XT660(X Y or Z)
This is great, thanks for all the advice so far folks.
Just spent an hour in stop start traffic with empty bus lanes next to me this morning and it has really sealed the idea.
Been getting some insurance qoutes and I can't believe how cheap they are to insure tpft.
Might have to see if anyone is up for swapping a motorbike for one of my mountain bikes.. High spec 2012 banshee spitfire in medium anyone?
How would this be for a first bike? I'm really liking the "naked" look bikes.
[url= http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201306117234916/sort/recpriceascdefault/usedbikes/body-type/naked/cc-from/200cc/postcode/ng93fw/radius/20/page/1?logcode=p ]Suzuki[/url]
The one thing I'd say with naked bikes is that they're hard work at motorway speeds due to wind blast. My CB was a vastly better ride when I had a tank bag on, as it deflected the headwind.
I'm firmly of the opinion that a bikini faring is the way to go. Fully fared is a bad idea on a first bike; first time you drop it - and you will - it'll cost you a grand.
Compare:
That little windscreen makes a massive difference. In hindsight it's the one thing I regret about my old CB500.
Don't plan on using it on motorways much anyway, few B roads etc but I'm not going to be going anywhere at 90mph in a straight line for hours on end.
I just successfully talked myself out of doing the bike test, and now this thread appears.
Plenty of good advice here. Especially the point about buying something like the CB500 over something fully aired or expensive. A guy at work just passed his test at 50 and went straight out and bought a brand new Triumph Street Triple........we're counting the days before he's complaining about the price of Triumph replacement parts.
Just had a look and they are lovely looking bikes... but cost about 6k from what I can see.
Budget is more like 2k really for just the bike as I need kit and licence etc
Entry level for a Street is circa 4K I would have thought. That said they do hold strong money an cost of ownership is the depreciation over the ownership period.
metalheart, there are a few free online mock tests you can do which will get you up to speed for your theory. Was a bit of a shock when my actual theory test had none of those questions but hey ho!
The hazard perception part is fine once you get your head around how you need to click. There is generally just one hazard in each clip, something that will cause you to take action such as brake or swerve. You might find at first you click too much as if you already drive you will spot loads of things just by instinct, most of them are not things you would need to react to though... if that makes sense.
The only thing I am nervous about now is the emergency stop and swerve parts of the Mod1, I am sure after a day on the big bike it will be fine though 🙂
Swerve and emergency stops etc are easier on the big bike. Its actually quite hard to get the 125 up to speed in a confined area. Likely to have abs on the bigger bike to just grab a load of brakes, simples. Just remember to not brake and swerve at the same time.
Abs shouldn't be on learner bikes, it just teaches people to grab rather than correct technique.
Estop and avoidance manoeuvres are simple enough if you build up to them and any decent instructor will do that. The last thing I do with a student is the above manoeuvres and expect the speeds to be met first time. Slow and steady builds confidence.
I'm a DAS instructor, feel free to pick my brains.
Abs shouldn't be on learner bikes, it just teaches people to grab rather than correct technique.
Was only on the test bike I used but the point stands the bigger bikes are easier to ride in almost all respects, better clutch, brakes, gearbox, it makes not doing DAS a bit daft if you can do it
[i]Abs shouldn't be on learner bikes, it just teaches people to grab rather than correct technique. [/i]
Absolutely, lets get them back on to drums while we are at it, and cross-ply tyres along with UJM with hinges in the frame - that'll show 'em... 🙄
Stop talking bo11ocks. My last two bikes have had ABS and after an 'incident' with a U-turning black cab and a dark wet winters night that because of ABS meant I stayed upright and stopped, I'd not have a bike without.
Although maybe if I KNEW how to ride I wouldn't have needed it...
Bit cheeky to add to this thread but I've just put a wanted swap in the classifieds.
Swap my Banshee Sptifire for your Motorbike?
As above, WHY?
Banshee Spitfire Medium 2012 Kashima rp23. (I'm 5ft10 and it fits like a glove).
Fox 32 RLC 150mm 15mm bolt through(2 rides old) (Tapered)
Stans flow on pro11's (2 rides rims and front hub and spokes. Rear hub is older but 100%) (I build wheels).
Running tubeless hans dampf front and nobby nic rear (again 2 rides old)
x9 drivetrain (3 x9) (Cassette and chain 2 rides old).
Avid Juicy 7's (2 rides old).
Reverb (1 ride old)
SDG Bel air saddle
Thomson x4 stem
Cane creek headset.
Complete new upgraded slippery bushing and axle kit in packet to be included in sale.
Pics to be added shortly.
Ideally looking for a 600cc bike worth around the 2k mark as the Banshee is Mint and half the kit is near on brand new bar 2 rides.
Paul






