Got a flue damper to control the draft on my chimney – as if the wind comes from the north my fire has a tendancy to draw like mother fooker- even with new door rope it will draw round the door with a hefty whistle.

Is it as simple as – masking tape – mark the pipe , drill it.

What seals the holes the shaft goes through ? Should i drill them slightly under size and use the shaft to “open” them out make it a tight/pressfit ?

might be worth asking the manufacturer, rather than random experts on the internet.

If you get it wrong it could be an expensive mistake

Manufacturers instructions for fitting stove damper helpfully has three steps. “drill holes diametrically opposing , install damper plate and line up holes before fitting shaft”

A new piece of flue pipes about 30 quid so ill probably just take a chance. Id have bought a premade one but i dont want a joint in the flue pipe in my eye view – currently the lower joints behind the stove and the uppers behind the lintel – none of the premade damper assembles come long enough

Just wondered if anyone on here such as twinw4ll or bedmaker had done it before.

Cuts fine with a thin blade on a grinder i can tell you that 🙂

I would make sure the door is air tight, you should only fit a flue damper if it’s an option from the stove manufacturer.
I never use vitreous pipe on installs as cutting or drilling destroys the integrity of the enamel.
An ill fitting door + damper in my opinion is a dangerous combination.

I was thinking ringing them up rather than RTFM.

I have a flue damper on my boiler by that’s an 11 meter run of flue piping.

My wood burner(clearview) which is a mere 9 meters doesn’t and is fine, and I live on an exposed hillside so its pretty windy

Can you not control the flue draft with the secondary air intake, or does the stove not have one, or is it one of those DEFRA approved ones with a tertiary intake as well?

Mines goes out 2m above the top of a 2 story house on top of an exposed hill id reckon its 9 or 10 m of straight chimney – 9 inch Clay liner , i only have issues in northerlys as i get no shelter from the other houses in my row- the others are higher than me.

I suspect its the vent more than the door thats whistling if im honest – i fitted new rope to the door seal and its tight to close now , the vent how ever is a metal to metal labyrinth seal

Funny enough the new version of my stove – trianco redfyre classic has secondary air control – mines does not.

I agree it would be a dangerous combo if i was trying to limit flow to slumber the fire over night – risk of CO ingress into house but thats not what i want. I want to retain control of my fire when the northerly draw causes it to “run away”

Its not defra its just old. – came with the house. Will be changed out/lined when we stop having diy wood waste to get rid of.