So this isn’t a Joe Murray Kona? Oh well, it still rides nice. I think it’s a ’98. I plan to put High Rollers on it and SPDs but leave everything else the same.
Although it’s a 98 frame, its shape/geometry is identical to Konas from 94 onwards, and Joe Murray did design the 94 Konas before he left in 93.
They’re quite tough frames, there’s no need to baby it.
Kuco – Member
Splatter paint jobs were on the first Kona’s.
Yep, the frames were welded in Taiwan and then sent to Paul Brodie for the braze-ons and the paint job. Only ’88 and ’89 frames had the Brodie paint and, in fact, if you compare an ’88 Kona with a Brodie frame of the same age there are a lot of similarities, in spite of the “designed by Joe Murray” frame decal……
Dupont Imron too, which is why an ’88 Kona Explosif can still look so good after 24 years,well, mine does anyway.
It still rides very well too, plus I never see anyone out around these parts on an older bike.
Interesting stuff about the paint. At the time I think I thought that Brodie were the Canadian handmade versions of Konas. I didn’t know about the paint.
I had the first year Cinder Cone (from Two Wheels Good in leeds), then Explosifs for the next 4 years (because I worked for a bike shop that sold Konas). A friend has still got the last one I had, which was the very last of the non-suspension corrected frames.
I had a couple of bikes in-between, but they were always absolutely awful compared to the Konas.
Lovely bikes, although I still prefer the hardtails I had afterwards (Bontrager and Independent Fabrication).
might get a rear disc tab welded on next year if it lasts another winter (which it will)…
I’ve got a explosif I want to put disks on and ss.
I thought about all this long and hard and decided it killed the character of the bike as a whole. Ended up getting a skinny Duster frame which feels very similar in terms of geometry, was pretty cheap and already has disk gubbins on it. If you like your old Kona, it’s well worth trying one, haven’t ridden my full suss yet this year.
I decided against putting disc tabs on this a few years ago when it was repaired/modified after the chainstay snapped. I wanted to keep it cheap and a bit sh1t so I could justify replacing it “properly” when it breaks again… which it has stubbornly refused to do… must try harder 😈
Kuco – Member
I gave my Cindercone away about 12 years ago, whish I hadn’t. I never did like the rear U-brake.
No, I was never very keen on the U brake either, I’ve had Magura Racelines on my ’88 Explosif for a few years now. Short of fitting disc brakes (and I wasn’t going to start doing that to the poor old thing), I reckon that it’s the way to go.
Again, highly unlikely I’d muster the time to actually do this but were I to SS the 94 Cindercone, what / where’s the best place to start?
I’ll defo need a new 1″ threaded headset and the V brake cables were zipp tied to the frame due to lack of cable bosses. – Worth considering additional bosses, especially if I had new fixie drop outs fitted?
’93 Fire mountain here. P2’s and canti brakes. Climbs like a rocket, even with me powering it. Perfect backup bike and fun in its own right. Also dead unfashionable which makes it even cooler.
m1kea, I have V-brakes on my ’93 Cindercone. You don’t need new braze ons, what I did was to reuse the existing seat post cable guide. You remove the bolt, turn the guide so that the bolt hole is in line with the top tube. then replace the bolt with a barrel adjuster from an old rear mech. then run the cable thought the barrel adjuster.
Only my opinion, bearing in mind I felt a bit dirty putting a V on the back to be honest, but I wanted to stop at roughly the same time I pulled the lever.
m1kea, I have V-brakes on my ’93 Cindercone. You don’t need new braze ons, what I did was to reuse the existing seat post cable guide. You remove the bolt, turn the guide so that the bolt hole is in line with the top tube. then replace the bolt with a barrel adjuster from an old rear mech. then run the cable thought the barrel adjuster.
Very neat solution. I used some stick on hose guides and zip tied the cable into them, running a full length outer.
They’ve not really evolved much have they?! From the early 2010sies, this bike could also have qualified for the ‘what are you riding most’ thread. 2010 Kona Blink.
Through a combination of good luck and trading this owes me about £500 but it’s dripping with retro bling. The Middleburn cranks, saddle and post are all new but otherwise it’s all mid 90s stuff I would have upgraded to
Magura HS33s
Royce Ti BB
XTR headset
Mavic 618 ceramic rims on Goldtec hubs
NOS Tioga Psychos
8sp XT including cassette
Sachs gripshifts
Immaculate Kona Race Light bars
Ringle H2O bottle cage
Salsa Skewers
X Lite crank bolts
Paint and frame mods (cable guides for Maguras, stem cable hanger removed) all by Argos Cycles
Transfers by Gil at The Cycle Shed to my own spec.
Paint, transfers and mods cost just under £300!
It rides like a dream, light (24lb) flickabe, fast and direct.
I’m absolutely chuffed to bits with it. 🙂
The Cindercone was the only Kona I ever owned and always wanted one of the last steel ones they made before they went to alloy. IMO they were never the same after that. And I also lusted for a Kilauea in Columbus steel.
Everybody tries to tell me something about my bike is wrong, like they are the Retro Police. I’ve been told the seat it wrong several times, that I should have used 5 bolt cranks (I had some 5 bolt Middleburns and sold them. I have a good reason for that choice) that it should have XTR mechs, that the Maguras are wrong… etc etc
But I like it just as it is and I’m very pleased with it and it’d stopping as it is. I built the bike I wanted, basically, and I make no apologies for that. 🙂
In that pic the black post really isn’t right though. It looks a LOT better with a silver one.
I like it just as it is and I’m very pleased with it and it’s stopping as it is. I built the bike I wanted, basically, and I make no apologies for that.
My 1997 Hahanna has been on commuting duty since 2006, with the occasional tyre swap for some offroading. Just fitted new chainset & front mech so very tempted to fit the knobblies again. Rims are pretty tired and braking is awful in the wet/mud but I still love it.
Kuco is this what you meant? Had this Kilauea for about 4 years now but wanted one back in ’97. Used for commuting duties (goes like a rocket) and off road duties with a Z1 bomber. Everyone should have a retro kona, they are just so much fun. Due for a refurb soon.
Any ideas on ‘winterising’ a 20 year old Cinder Cone? I think it’d be wrong not riding it in the mud 😉
Not too often mind as i remember how crap v brakes are in the mud 😆
nice bikes everyone 😀
i always wanted a classic kona steel/ti bike,but never could afford one (although i nearly got a 1991/2 lava dome).
i think i bought my charge duster,partly because it was like an old kona steel frame 🙂
That Explosif I posted in “Bike Shed retro” a little while back is probably going to be up for sale soon. Bloke has ordered a Spesh 29er on the bike to work scheme.
Any one who may be interested can mail me.