• This topic has 31 replies, 17 voices, and was last updated 15 years ago by gamo.
Viewing 32 posts - 1 through 32 (of 32 total)
  • Stans no tubes or No Flats Joe’s?
  • hora
    Free Member

    Which one is ‘best’ or is there really nothing between them?

    sootyandjim
    Free Member

    Are you still doing that ‘buying stuff will make me better’ thing Hora?

    hora
    Free Member

    ‘buying stuff will make me better’

    If that was the case I’d own a 2009 Intense Spyder and drive a Audi RS4.

    Instead of riding on 5yr old Chris Kings and driving an older Subaru 😉

    sootyandjim
    Free Member

    So not considering the pikey option of ghetto tubeless then?

    hora
    Free Member

    I’m listening. I asked the question as Stans is now £71 and Joes is £40 on CRC. Hence I am open to saving money…….

    nickegg
    Free Member

    Go Ghetto!

    Just did a Maxxis Minion 2.35 on a DT E540 rim with no trouble whatsoever. One local test ride, a loop of Brechfa and 4 hours this afternoon and no problems yet.

    2 tubes and wheel milk from Just Riding Along for £12. Didn’t need a compressor to seat the beads, track pump was fine.

    Why bother with any “normal” tubeless kit?

    thomthumb
    Free Member

    no experience of stans but joes seemed pants. but i’m notoriously rubbish with tubeless.

    loris
    Free Member

    AS nickegg go ghetto:
    Sad man’s blog on ghetto tubeless
    Remarkably easy to do, and works very well….so far.

    hora
    Free Member

    Looking through the blog, one thing strikes me. The innertube sits outside of the tyre wall bead? (trimming the innertube excess down after the tyre is seated)… So the tyre bead sits onto the remnants of the inner tube first BEFORE the rim nurl itself? That says to me the tyre beeding isnt going to be stable at low pressures and you’ll end up ‘burping’air out of the sidewalls?

    Does that make sense? How does it work/stop that? 😐

    avalanche
    Free Member

    Fill the hollow in the rim with draft excluder- 39p per m from local glazier. Buy 4m for 2 rims.
    Seal rim bed with overlapping insulation tape- £1
    Push the valves from two old tubes through the tape and tighten the little knurled wheel.
    60cc Stans milk per tyre- £10 per 500mil bottle LBS
    Hey Presto.
    Been running panaracer fire xc pro on mavic crossride for 18 months with no issues other than a topup of juice after a particularly big puncture.

    nickegg
    Free Member

    I have no intention of running pressure that low. I did it to stop thorn punctures and to stop using so many tubes and patches.

    Currently running mine at 30psi. Seems perfect for me. Depends on where you ride i suppose.

    hora
    Free Member

    30psi is what I’d aim for (hardtail tho if ok still?). That was my only concern. The blog looks very clear and straight forward. One thing, is it advisable to use new tyres or are c30% usage/wear ones ok?

    gamo
    Free Member

    joe’s and stans rimstrips are almost identical(have both), through use
    i would say i prefer stans sealant as the joes stuff seems to dry quicker
    and makes more of a mess of the inside of the tyres.

    ChristoGinger
    Free Member

    would add that the ghetto method is less likely to burp as the tube overlap seals against the tyre. This means if the tyre comes away from the rim the overlapping tube goes with it. no burps for me in a year.

    nickegg
    Free Member

    I was running Kenda Nevegals but due to the amount of punctures they had recieved i went with Maxxis. Used tyres may require longer to get that initial seal thats all.

    Just Riding Along highly recommend Maxxis for tubeless conversions. In my experience, so far, they seem great. They took seconds to seal.

    Ghetto conversion could not have been simpler to do.

    nickc
    Full Member

    This on your chameleon? I run same tyres as you on the same bike with inner tubes, at 30 psi. They’re fine.

    hora
    Free Member

    Nickc, its pinching at 40psi. How much do you weigh?!!!

    nickc
    Full Member

    Less than you, clearly

    hora
    Free Member

    95kg of pure lard 8)

    fatblokeattheback
    Free Member

    95kg of pure lard

    And then some!

    hora
    Free Member

    fatblokeattheback, you run about 0.5psi in your tyres and your forks…..surely you must run tubeless in both your tyres and your forks? 😆 🙄

    fatblokeattheback
    Free Member

    Put it down to the skill of the rider then as to why I don’t get punctures! :mrgreen:

    hora
    Free Member

    Quick question- just rang LBs to check stock of items and he mentioned ‘this for a own tubeless’? Yep- he reckoned a thinner bmx tube would be ‘better’. Still better to go with the Schwalbe one and have the overhang to trim when tyre is seated??

    P20
    Full Member

    I’ve got the Stans system on 2 bikes, great bit of kit, it just works. The Joes system was a pain to set up and wouldn’t keep its pressure. Haven’t tried the ghetto system though.

    gingerflash
    Full Member

    “as Stans is now £71”

    Not sure where you’re looking but Stans is £51 at JustRidingAlong and Biketreks has a kit reduced to about £40.

    Frankers
    Free Member

    I’ve tried Joe’s and got fed up with it so sent it back to CRC for credit, no problems with Stans or Split 20″ innnertubes method either.

    Stans sits under the lip of the rim and is a tight fit, whereas the Joes strip sat above the lip and was very slack on the rim.

    As in burping i’ve had no problems with Stans/20″ split tubes, but did have problems with DT Swiss kits when using lower pressure

    loris
    Free Member

    No burping here yet, but only ran them for a couple of weeks, don’t run particularly low pressure tho’.

    singletrackmind
    Full Member

    Do you have to have UST rims for ‘Ghetto’ tubeless?
    Also , sorry for the remspac question , Do you also have to use UST tyres?
    Thinking that UST tyres must carry extra protection , as they weigh 100gms + more. Don’t think that my NNics would last , very light sidewalls. So does it pay to buy better heavier built non UST tyres like Maxxis or Hutchinson , then Ghetto these. I have a set of UST Crosslands and love the acceleration with a std tube’d Speedking , compared to a Slimed Conti Gravity

    Stans every time, it just works properly.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Art latex has worked for me but does dry out.

    MidLifeCyclist
    Free Member

    Do you have to have UST rims for ‘Ghetto’ tubeless?
    Also , sorry for the remspac question , Do you also have to use UST tyres?

    No – standard rims and standard tyres (but not all) I use Racing Ralphs on DT swiss 4.2 rims. 20 inch Schwalbe innner tube (presta with removable core) and 60 ml of latex does the rest.

    I’ve run them for over 3 months and finally came to grief when I hit glass and sliced through the tyre – too big a hole for the latex to fix. I was doing an event and in haste whipped out the schwalbe tube and inserted a normal tube. BUT…

    the replacement tube went flat withing a mile – I had assumed that it had prolapsed through the tyre and finally worn through. It was only when I got home to fix the tyre and re ghetto it that I discovered 6 thorns poking through!! These had been in the tyre for some time and I just didn’t think of checking when I had the flat – after all I’d hit glass…

    Ghetto is about £12 for 2 tyres – so a lot cheaper as well

    gamo
    Free Member

    As i said above the joes and stans rimstrips i have are almost identical,
    both fit tightly up under the bead on my dt 5.1 ‘s, stans sealant does
    seem better(less messy).Going to try the ghetto way on my brothers bike
    at weekend.

Viewing 32 posts - 1 through 32 (of 32 total)

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