6 weeks ago bought a 2010 Stumpjumper FSR Comp after 4 weeks Rear mech stopped moving down gears once it got into the big ring at the back, took it back to shop got the rear mech replaced under warranty, guy in bike shop said it was a common problem, 3 rides later and half way round 'The Beast' at CyB new rear mech starts doing the same!! Very annoyed now, anyone else had these issues, really tempted to fork put on some SLX shifters and Mech but feel I shouldn't have to fork out myself.....
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SRAM X-9 Rear Mech Problems
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Posted 1 year ago #
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never had any problems with SRAM.... using X9 and X0 for years without a hitch. what was the cause of the mech not moving? imo it's most likely to be crap in the gear cables or a poorley routed gear cable (tight bends or snagging inside)
the way to test it is to undo the cable at the mech, put the bike in a workstand so the rear wheel can rotate easy (or rest it upside down on bars and saddle) and then work the rear gear with your hand whilst turning cranks the drive way... if the mech moves the chain up and down the cassette without hitch, then the problem is most likely the gear cables... replace both the inner and outer cables (with a quality set) and you should be sorted.
Posted 1 year ago # -
never had any issues either as it is sprung to rest in the lower gears [ smaller teeth] only a cable seems a likely cause. Is it clear of the cassette when in the biggest rear cog or is it catching and thus presenting it moving? There is a an allen key bolt that screws onto the hanger can you adjust that?
Posted 1 year ago # -
I will have a go at adjusting it later, but it seems to just be that the spring in the rear mech isn't strong enough, apart from the top 2 cogs he gears work fine, soon as mech is fully extended at lowest gears it just locks into position...
Posted 1 year ago # -
Slight highjack
Sometimes my X9 rear shifter will not return on it's own.
Is there any serviceable parts inside?Posted 1 year ago # -
I had the very same problem, SRAM sent me a new mech that was different to the faulty one, I presume a newer model (visually different and cable attach point was different) and it works fine. Get back in touch with SRAM.
Posted 1 year ago # -
There are issues with the 2010 X9 mechs. Mine won't change into the smallest cog easily, despite no end of fettling. I have to change down a cog and then jump two in order to get it to engage.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Had the same issue with mine, had to replace it. Here's the thread: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/rear-mech-has-no-spring-tension
Posted 1 year ago # -
Thanks for all the replies, looks like it's another trip back to the vibe shop to get it replaced under warranty again, I will make sued I verify that im given a newer version mech..... With all these bank holidays will ve over a week before I get my bike back
so much for an Easter riding dry and dusty trails!! Haha
Posted 1 year ago # -
Same story here. Tight linkages meant the mech would stick, especially from full extension. this was on an X9. nothing to do with cables etc as it would do this off the bike in the workshop. iirc tolerance issue with 2009 units?
Posted 1 year ago # -
Oiling the linkages is a partial solution at best.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Had the same issues with an X9 rear although mine was second hand off ebay, Was definitely an issue with the pivots/return spring as still sticky off the bike. Noted that this years X7 which was bought as a replacement looks to be a modified design.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Had the same problem...had a 2009 X9 on a new bike purchase..after about 6 months of moderate use with regular cleaning/oiling the movement became sticky and it wouldn't change down off the large cog. I had to quickly learn a technique of reaching my foot back and giving it a kick get it to change down. It started acting up just after I changed my cassette from 11-32 to 11-34 so I thought the larger ring caused it but the 2010 model warranty replacement is still going fine.
After a google search I found it to be a well documented issue and they replaced it no questions asked. Someone mentioned something about the pivot pins wearing and the pins/holes become oblonged causing sticky movement.
Slightly OT but I'm anal when it comes to smooth shifting and like to keep everything tuned perfectly...once H & L screws are set, cable tension is right and shifter/indexing problems are ruled out I've always found hanger alignment to be the cause of rough shifting. I spent hours on the wife's bike trying to get it just right, all shifts were smooth except 2-3 and/or 7-8 depending on cable adjustments, the hanger looked straight but after getting one of these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-gear-hanger-alignment-tool
I was able to get the hanger perfectly straight and shifting went silky smooth. A few work colleagues bought new bikes recently and I used the alignment tool when they were fresh out of the box...all were bent inwards about 0.5 - 1 inch.Also, as a precaution I always store my bike with the chain on the smallest cog to relax the spring...not sure if it helps but doesn't hurt...hope this helps anyway...
Posted 1 year ago # -
Recently bought a 2010 X9 from Merlin and have the same problem. The pivots seem to have a lot of stiction and even when the cable is totally slack, it still wont change up beyond the middle of the cassette. Phoned them to ask about returning it and they said it was a known issue. They offered to get their workshop to "free it up" if I sent it back. However they dont refund postage which seems a bit if a cheek given that it is clearly faulty.
Posted 1 year ago # -
As above!
Posted 1 year ago # -
I have the same problem. Same has happened to three x-9 mechs, so i'm upgrading to XTR soon.
Posted 1 year ago # -
FieldMarshall, merlin tried to free mine up too, lasted about a month then the same thing happened. Ended up going back for a newer model. Merlin sent it straight to sram.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I had a similar problem this weekend, never had any trouble with Sram before.
After messing with new cables and different length outers on the last bit into mech housing, I found that
the chain was a link or two short. Now this was the same chain length I'd used on previous X9 mech,
so not the answer for everybody but worth checking none the less?
Matt.
Posted 1 year ago # -
For me, it's when i'm in the granny ring, it won't shift down the cassette.
making the bike bob when under the pedals and shifting makes it shift though! Oh, and as for the small ring, i've had to set the limit past the ring so it'll actually go onto the small ring. Not the best way to do it, but it works.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Mine sticks in the biggest ring, I've left it in in degreaser over night then scrubbed hell out of it and then literally soaked it in lube, and it still sticks. If you play with the mech of bike you can feel that the way the mech opens it only pulls a tiny length of spring for that last cog, as it moves in an arch. So the spring tension is falling rate, and it really drops off at the end.
To shift out of that cog I now just hop my back wheel to the right and it knocks it down.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Similar issue here, not moving smoothly across the small cogs. I found lubing the pivot bushes with a thin oil gets it working well for a while.
Posted 1 year ago # -
A good coating of Oil has seemed to if done the trick, fort now anyway I'll have to see how long it lasts!!!
Posted 1 year ago # -
I saw this very problem for the first time recently, Campy groupo on a road bike - rear shifting became like glue when in the big ring. Chain line okay, chain length and tension okay.
Best solution was a ton of time achieved perfecting the most friction free cable run ever. Shame as soon as any grit gets near it again it'll go the same way. The actual cause was never identified for sure.
Posted 1 year ago #
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