Appologies for yet another roadie thread but..

I’d never heard of the ‘you shouldn’t be able to see the front hub’ on your roadie until a thread on here recently, and I appreciate it’s a rough guide but is this when your on the hoods (which I’ve assumed it is) or on the tops?

it was suggested as something when I was looking at a used one, mostly as a quick check to do, remember you can move the seat and change the stem to compensate. Can’t remember if it was hoods or top.

Its only a guide so it doesn’t matter.

Coincidentally, I was thinking about this the other day. As I noticed I can see my hub.

Probably not the most interesting observation I have ever made.

When on the hoods.
It is only a rough guide, but it’s one of a few fairly solid starting point when it comes to fitting.

I **** love my road bike. FACT.

I **** love my road bike. FACT.

Oh…kay.

Oh and its a road bike, you are a roadie.

is this when your on the hoods (which I’ve assumed it is) or on the tops?

Neither – it’s when you are on the drops.

tis only a guide though.

The main reason for asking is I’m planning on buying a new bike and test road a Giant Defy (which I’d almost decided on) last weekend and it felt far to cramped & upright. Not only could I see the hub but a good chunk of the break pads as well. The 100mm stem and 35mm of spacers probably didn’t help!

But I can also see the hub on my Boardman which I think is considered a pretty racey position, even with 130mm stem.

To be honest I’m really struggling to come to a resonable decision and local shops aren’t much help!

Edit: That was on the reccomended size for my height. I’d apparently need to be 2″ taller for the next size up.

When on the hoods.

Neither – it’s when you are on the drops.

Sorted.

Jamie – Member
Sorted.

Clear as mud then 🙂

great pic from mikewsmith – not just the correct riding position which i’ll practise later but the spectator who is doing a vertical take off – where’s he going?

I had a bike fit by a chap a couple of years ago, Nick Dinsdale (much respected in these parts as a cycling physio guru), and i’m fairly sure he set me up as on the drops you can see the hub, hoods you can’t, bar you can see it again (sorry Nick if I’ve remembered this wrong but would seem to make sense).
Whatever he did it stopped my tendonitis 🙂

but the spectator who is doing a vertical take off

Took me a while to notice him…

Jamie, i think he meant the guy on the left.

Time to edit, I’ll delete this for £5

I regret nothing.

Jamie, you sir are a genius with far too much time on your hands 😀

It might be arbitrary but seems to work on any bike I’ve had. The other ‘rule’, that your fingers should touch the handlebar with your elbow against the saddle nose, has never worked, not even close… ❓

I can see it, however my bike is comfy all day, even on the drops. It is only just big enough though – a larger frame and I might not.

Jamie, i think he meant the guy on the left

nah – Jamie has shopped the hoverer as ever good work

Far too much talented time on his hands. Took me a while to get that!

My rule for being on the drops is that when I’m down and holding the bars, the front hub tends to fall in line with my thumbs. It’s only a rough guide, like all the others.

From the hoods is what I was told.
There’s in the drops 😈 and in the drops 🙂 and in the drops 😐

But is this before or after getting your knee above the pedal spindle? : )

Hub-sight test worked out on my old road bike set up, but on my more comfy, better fitting, equal average-speed overall road bike it doesn’t.

Another way a lot of roadies over here check if the frame/bars/stem is the right size is by putting their elbow on the front of the saddle and the hand on the stem. The fingers should be touching the middle of the steerer. Details here

Not one of those guides on that Aus site works on my road bike, which fits me fine.

Pile of crock. what a good joke 😀

Article date: April 1st 2010

“Before you read on I should warn you to take a close look at the date before you take this too seriously.”

Don’t let them fool you…

Lie horizontally (think planking) across the bike with your dangleberries resting on your stem cap. Your sternum notch should fit into the tip of your saddle and your nipple should be over the pedal spindle (nops). If your saddle/bar drop is correct, a 2p coin will roll slowly down your back and get wedged in your crack.

I think we need a youtube video demonstration of the “Shand guide to dandyhorse fitment”

I’m not looking forward to getting fitted in your workshop Steven. I’ll send you my old jeans, can you do it off that? )

If you ride with Conti GP4s’s then your nose should not rub on the front tyre whilst on the drops, the front of the drops not the rear of them, nope it has to be the front. If riding with schwalbe’s then your nose must rub on the rear tyre whilst on the hoods.

Fact.

You know the best way to get a bike fit you? ride it.

Lie horizontally (think planking) across the bike with your dangleberries resting on your stem cap. Your sternum notch should fit into the tip of your saddle and your nipple should be over the pedal spindle (nops). If your saddle/bar drop is correct, a 2p coin will roll slowly down your back and get wedged in your crack.

didn’t some scottish guy get nicked and banged up for doing that, when he was caught in the act by a cleaner?

Jamie you have far too much time and far too much talent for on here…brilliant.

what a crock the elbow on the saddle nose is!
depends on saddle length and presumes that everyone has legs/arms/torso which are proportional.

There’s so many old fashioned rules of thumb floating about on forums and the internet.

Now that’s funny! Bravo Jimbo

@Jamie