I’ve managed to break two wooden handled splitting axes and a composite handled maul over the last few years…. yeah, I’m sure it’s technique that’s to blame.

Anyway although I now have a hydraulic splitter for doing the bigger stuff, and any sort of volume, I could still do with a smaller axe for when I can’t be bothered firing up the beast ^.

So I’m think that I could add a Fiskars X21 to my Xmas list. Do you think that’s about the right size? Any other suggestions?

For splitting small stuff, cheapest you can find, preferably bluntish.

I have a 12 tonne hydraulic splitter that cost over £2k, my small splitting axe however was about £2.

I’m eagerly awaiting Santa to bring me an X27. I was weighing it up against the X25, but throught the X21 would be too short. I am 6’3 though.

For splitting small stuff, cheapest you can find, preferably bluntish.

Yeah but it’s a present… I like nice things 🙂

So that’s a no to a Gränsfors Small Splitting Axe as well then 🙁

As arcing suggests the axe size is dependent on a number of things eg your size and the type of wood to be split. see below link

http://www.fiskars.co.uk/new-axes

Axe and trouser advice in the same day.

Awaits beard advice thread.

You need to consult with Beardy McAxerson

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/a-magazine-more-stw-than-stw-itself

Ive got an X-27 and Mrs Diz has an X-21 for when she helps with the splitting job.
Both excellent axes but if I try to us the 21 it feels all wrong.

i’d actually go and have a real feel of the axes, if you’re wondering which to go for..
I ALMOST got tempted by the ‘bigger is better’ x27… but then had a look at the Fiskars website, with the videos on choosing an axe..
Opted for the x25 and it’s great!
It’s about half the weight of the huge maul I WAS using, and about twice as useful.

I can see why you need to ‘size up’ an axe now.

DrP

I like my Gransfors. It may be no better than anything else but I feel like I’ve stepped back in time to living out of a remote Scandinavian cabin every time I use it.

axes don’t break , axe shafts do get a replacement shaft.

It doesn’t need to be big as I have this for splitting 95% of the wood.

I just need something [nice] that I can quickly grab for small stuff/resplitting something that’s too big. I know I could go cheap but where’s the fun in that when someone else is paying 🙂

As I always break axes just below the head I like the idea of a Gransfors as you can get exactly the right replacement handle.
Once a Fiskars is bust, it’s dead.

Both excellent axes but if I try to us the 21 it feels all wrong.

Interesting

Awaits beard advice thread

Nah, I’m in this camp on that subject – although I’m now exclusively using my 1950’s Gillette Super Speed rather than the Merkur now.

sharkbait – Member

For splitting small stuff, cheapest you can find, preferably bluntish.

Yeah but it’s a present… I like nice things

So that’s a no to a Gränsfors Small Splitting Axe as well then

Absolutely do look at the Gränsfors large splitting axe. Absolutely immaculate fit and finish, beautiful to use like all of their axes. Perfect, timeless, awesome.

The small splitting axes are more like large splitting hatchets and are something of a conumdrum to me. Nice to have, but anything small enough could probaly go in the stove or just be split with a hatchet.

People swoon over Fiskars but I gave mine away.

I have 2 Gränsfors axes, one being their smaller splitting hatchet. For me they are THE go to company for proper axes.

Fiskars is a high volume product company and sold in every local garden/type shop here in Sweden. For a Swede there is a clear difference in quality between Gränsfors and Fiskars, the former being much higher quality.

That said, I also have a £2 ish Biltema (aka Halfords of Sweden) that sits out in the rain/snow and I don’t care about it lol. The Gränsfors live in my warm garage tucked up nicely 😀

I have 2 Gränsfors axes, one being their smaller splitting hatchet.

Is that the #439 Bream? If so what size stuff do you use that for?

The shorter fiskars are surprisingly good on easy and moderate splitting stuff. I’ve a x17 for when the 27 isn’t needed on a pile and I can rattle through it quick. Less effort. However, it is more dangerous, ignore the fiskars video and use a short block so miss hits and the axe head hits t ground not your leg. I managed to need 3 stitches in my shin from a miss hit second swing with the x17! Got off light really. I now wear some old knee and shin pads when using it, but the low block is the best safety. It isn’t so much your aim, it’s if the log has a twisted grain or knot so the split can rapidly run to one side and the axe deflected out the side carries on, straight at your shin. That’s what I had.
Anyway, the short and lighter fiskars are surprisingly powerful.

I’m starting to think that a Gransfors Small Forest Axe may be on the list.

A bit cheaper than the splitting axe but lighter and seems very capable.

That said, I’ll probably not get anything 🙁

Just checked and the smallest I have is the 441. The cheapy sits on top of the wood stack and is smaller, just used for splitting lighter pieces when filling the wood basket.

small forest axe is a chopping axe. it will split but a splitting tool would be better.

neilnevill – Member

However, it is more dangerous, ignore the fiskars video and use a short block so miss hits and the axe head hits t ground not your leg. I managed to need 3 stitches in my shin from a miss hit second swing with the x17! Got off light really. I now wear some old knee and shin pads when using it, but the low block is the best safety. I

In my opinion this is wrong. The shorter the handle, the taller the block should be. In general you want the block to be around knee height, or slightly taller. That way if you over strike or miss the axe is likely to embed in the block.

If the block is too short and you miss the axe can carry through and hit your feet.

sharkbait – Member

I’m starting to think that a Gransfors Small Forest Axe may be on the list.

It will split lighter wood and logs brilliantly but they have a very sharp profile and come shaving sharp. With such a sharp axe you’ll need to be very precise and careful with your splitting.

I have the Gransfors Scandi axe which is a wicked splitter when it comes to stuff that’s too big for the hatchet but not big enough for the splitting axe. It has a longer handle though (27″) so I can use the same block as the splitting axe.

For smaller stuff and kindling I use a Husqvarna traditional pattern hatchet and a large fence post at roughly waist height.

Meant to say that the Scandi axe and Forest axe have slim handles that allow you to choke up and split kindling or even do some whittling/carving but again, razor sharp so do s at your own risk.

I’ve got a Gränsfors large splitting maul, very nice to use, splits just about anything….

In my opinion this is wrong. The shorter the handle, the taller the block should be. In general you want the block to be around knee height, or slightly taller. That way if you over strike or miss the axe is likely to embed in the block.

If the block is too short and you miss the axe can carry through and hit your feet.

But it may not, unless your block is very very wide. Like I said, I hit my shin second swing with an x17, I didn’t miss but the log split out the side and deflected the axe head, sufficient to miss the side of my 2 foot wide and thigh height block th log was set on. Thankfully for me the blow had taken most of the power from the swing o when the axe head deflected past the block it only kissed my shin, but being razor sharp …. I needed 3 stitches. Low block may be less comfy as you need to crotch, or even kneel, but there is no doubt it IS the safest for a short handled axe, you WILL hit the ground not yourself. Check out Ray Mears or any half knowledgeable bushcraft type and they will say the same. Please don’t swallow the fiskars video on chosing an axe and how to use it…it tells you to use the wrong hand at the top of the axe! 😯

I now use a low block and stoop over a bit. But then if I’m using the x17 its ‘cos I’ve some super super easy splitting stuff and i’m rattling through the pile, a low block and stooping can help as I waste no effort lifting logs to a higher block.

I always use a low block for several reasons: Mostly perhaps, I don’t have a tall block to use, but can use a ring cut from the trunk. But also, i can’t lift the big rings high anyway, there’s less lifting in general, larger drop of axe head from full height = greater head speed, less chance of the axe head bouncing off dangerously (and/or missing). Just goes into the ground. Possibly harder work physically as i crouch into the blow especially when putting in full effort (ie drop myself so the axe doesn’t go much past horizontal).

neilnevill – Member

Low block may be less comfy as you need to crotch, or even kneel, but there is no doubt it IS the safest for a short handled axe, you WILL hit the ground not yourself.

If you re-read my post you’ll notice that I wrote the shorter the handle, the taller the block. By crouching or kneeling you are shortening the distance to the stump – a taller block achieves the same result but means you don’t have to crouch or stoop, meaning you can be upright and let the tool do the work.

Check out Ray Mears or any half knowledgeable bushcraft type and they will say the same. Please don’t swallow the fiskars video on chosing an axe and how to use it…it tells you to use the wrong hand at the top of the axe!

I haven’t watched the Fiskars video. Ray Mears kneeling technique applies to splitting kindling or camp fire wood with small bushcraft axe or hatchet. It’s not applicable to splitting larger logs. No doubt kneeling is safest but it’s utterly impractical.

I have a 33″ maul and wedges for busting up big rounds like in sharkbait’s photo where they sit, two 30″ splitting axes for large logs which go on the knee height block, 26″ Scandinavian forest axe which isn’t really for splitting but I do use it on stuff smaller than say a toilet roll, then numerous hatchets for kindling which I split on a waist high post.

Running a 20kw boiler stove and open fire.

I noticed in one of the many trade places I’ve had to visit in the last week that Spear and Jackson do a very similar looking axe to the Fiskars. No idea what the quality is like but the shaft/head interface looks the same design.

I have a 33″ maul and wedges for busting up big rounds like in sharkbait’s photo where they sit, two 30″ splitting axes for large logs which go on the knee height block, 26″ Scandinavian forest axe which isn’t really for splitting but I do use it on stuff smaller than say a toilet roll, then numerous hatchets for kindling which I split on a waist high post.

Running a 20kw boiler stove and open fire.
So you have experience, so do I. I’ve a stihl pro maul (8lb, 36″ handle) an x27, x17 and a kindling hatchet. I’ve hand split 16 to 17m3 since April and as much before that. Shall we stop the Willy waving? We both know a lot and neither no it all.

I agree kneeling isn’t practical for much at all beyond kindling but a stoop is enough. Fact remains, if you miss a thigh high block, and its very possible and nothing to do with poor aim as I demonstrated, a short axe will hit your shin. With a low block it hits the ground.

diz, a few people do similar designs, husqvarna/gardena, and stihl, ozark trail all have similar. It originates from US forestry regs i believe, tools aren’t allowed to have heads that can fly off, hence the wrap design.

Low block, heavy maul user here. I can’t remember when it last careened off out of control, and I’ve certainly never hit myself with it.

The low block reduces the height you need to lift a heavy bit of wood, and allows the weight of the maul to do the work for you (ok, so you’ve got to lift that but suck it up)

neilnevill – Member

Shall we stop the Willy waving? We both know a lot and neither no it all.

I wasn’t willy waving as you put it. I have no idea how much I’ve split, was just listing the mauls and axes to illustrate I don’t use them all the same way.

Fact remains, if you miss a thigh high block, and its very possible and nothing to do with poor aim as I demonstrated, a short axe will hit your shin. With a low block it hits the ground.

You haven’t demonstrated that it was nothing to do with poor aim, you’re saying that and I’ll take your word for it. Anyway consider splitting a small log ( eg toilet roll sized) with a 13″ hatchet. The log is sat on a low stump and your swing is a full two handed overhead swing. If you miss strike in any way there’s a big chance the hatchet will go into your foot or shin.

Now consider splitting the same log on a waist high block. Your point of aim/impact is half that of the other swing, more accuracy, more control, less work.

I don’t want to sound confrontational, I doubt we’ll agree but to me it sounds like you are afraid of the tool and are modifying your working process accordingly.

If you have a razor sharp axe and a narrow loo roll sized stick, don’t you hold the blade in contact with the wood and give them both a smart whack on the block, making the blade stick in? Then you can lift the two together and whack off with relative impunity

Splitting things the size of a bog roll is hardly an issue to get worked up over. But you’re still much better off putting as many as will fit in a tyre and splitting the lot than doing then one at time balanced on a tall block with the bits flying off randomly (or perhaps the whole log if you mis-hit).

thecaptain – Member

Splitting things the size of a bog roll is hardly an issue to get worked up over.

I was using a very small log and very small axe example to illustrate a point. Not a realistic concern. Anything that size goes in the stove whole.

You haven’t demonstrated that it was nothing to do with poor aim, you’re saying that and I’ll take your word for it. Anyway consider splitting a small log ( eg toilet roll sized) with a 13″ hatchet. The log is sat on a low stump and your swing is a full two handed overhead swing. If you miss strike in any way there’s a big chance the hatchet will go into your foot or shin.

Now consider splitting the same log on a waist high block. Your point of aim/impact is half that of the other swing, more accuracy, more control, less work.

I don’t want to sound confrontational, I doubt we’ll agree but to me it sounds like you are afraid of the tool and are modifying your working process accordingly.

Well without photo evidence of the split and where it was struck and how the grain splintered of the corner then no, I have no evidence.

If you’re doing a full over head swing with a 13″ hatchet you don’t have the right tool for the job and however you use it is risky.

Not taken as confrontational, just that you, like me are trying to help.

No not afraid of the tool. Just using it safely. It’s done a fair bit of work, probably split a couple of cube at least since I got it in mid August. I’f I was scared of it I’d just use the longer handled x27.

Guess we can disagree on this.

neilnevill – Member

If you’re doing a full over head swing with a 13″ hatchet you don’t have the right tool for the job and however you use it is risky.

Again just making an extreme example to illustrate my view point.

Guess we can disagree on this.

Might as well do that.

Forgot to say, there is no chance of even a hatchet hitting your shin if you are low too, so stoop if you need to.

Why not just bung a new handle in? So wasteful discarding the head. Bit of straight grained hard wood and half an hour plus maybe another axe and a pocket knife gives you a perfect handle. Won’t have the designer paint of course.

And the extreme example, is to use the hatchet correctly, and kneeling is perhaps appropriate, it gets you low, its damned impractical, but so is using a hatchet as you suggest.

We aren’t getting anywhere with extreme examples, despite as both using them to be helpful.

neilnevill – Member

We aren’t getting anywhere with extreme examples,

Look I was only talking about axes to make you feel good about yourself. This is how I actually split my wood

https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/husqvarna-5769266-01-sledge-axe.html

One of these sorts out most jobs.