slack chain - singlespeed « Singletrack Forum

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slack chain - singlespeed

19 posts & 13 voices | Started 1 year ago by aw | Latest reply from Tyredocter

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aw - Member

I have a converted 97 kona cindercone to a singlespeed set up. I have trouble with the chain tensioner in that it ..well ...does not actually tension the chain. In whatever configuration I fit it (up or down pressure) it only slightly deflects the chain. I could try taking a link out?

Or is it better to try and get a magic chain length to get the right tension by removing one or more links?

As the bike frame was a original geared set up there's no sliding drop out or anything to tension the chain.

Or I could give up and sell/re-convert back to gears

Posted 1 year ago #
clubber - Member

Sounds like the chain's too long - make sure it's as tight as pos before fitting the tensioner. If it's still not working, check that the tensioner is properly sprung (eg it pivots freely). Pic?

Magic ratios are a bodge and only work until the chain stretches.

Posted 1 year ago #
davidtaylforth - Member

get a half link for the chain, job done

Posted 1 year ago #
aw - Member

I got a 'quick link' but I am not sure if that is the same as a half link?

I agree about the magic ratio as this is where I started before getting the tensioner fitted.

Posted 1 year ago #
BoardinBob - Member

What tensioner is it?

Posted 1 year ago #
aw - Member

DMR I think?

Posted 1 year ago #
davidtaylforth - Member

You need a half link, not a quick link. Charliethebikemonger sells them. You will need to use it with a 3/32" (7/8speed) though

It will solve your problems

Posted 1 year ago #
BoardinBob - Member

Ah. If it was the on one doofer I've got a bodge for that

Posted 1 year ago #
bone_idle - Member

I bought a proper single speed frame in the end, got fed up with tensioners they are all crap, a magic gear starts good then the chain stretches so thats a waist of time. What ever you do you will always wish you had sliding drop outs, Just buy a second hand IO you can pick them up for £80 its cheaper in the long run and it has the adjuster srews so you dont need tug nuts even with QR wheels.

Posted 1 year ago #
Tyredocter - Member

SJS do a special single speed narrow chain In the old days anything more than 5mm of play was considered loose Failing that check to see if there's daylight showing on the bottom links of the chain on the chainset plus pull the bottom part to see if slides up and down, if so your chain is slack

Posted 1 year ago #
aw - Member

here it is...

Posted 1 year ago #
HeathenWoods - Member

That is well slack, what's going on with the tensioner?

I bought a proper single speed frame in the end, got fed up with tensioners they are all crap, a magic gear starts good then the chain stretches so thats a waist of time. What ever you do you will always wish you had sliding drop outs,

Although the best SS I had was built around a SS frame and I only used a tensioner once (Pastey Howler) I totally disagree with the rest of the above. With any vertical dropout you've got about 1/2 inch of 'drop-in'. Start off with the wheel as close to the mouth of the drop-out as possible with whatever works for the frame (ie with the chain as taut as can be pedalled), use a half link if necessary. As chain stretch happens simply drop the wheel in to re-tension

Posted 1 year ago #
SprocketJockey - Member

I reckon you need to take at least one link out.... oh and position the tensioner so it's actually ON the chain..

Seriously, like someone else said, you need to take up as much slack as you can by removing links before fitting the tensioner.

Posted 1 year ago #
trail_rat - Member

"

SJS do a special single speed narrow chain In the old days anything more than 5mm of play was considered loose Failing that check to see if there's daylight showing on the bottom links of the chain on the chainset plus pull the bottom part to see if slides up and down, if so your chain is slack !"

i want one of what hes smoking !

Posted 1 year ago #
HTTP404 - Member

the chain looks ok for a vertical drop-out.
the tensioner looks positioned ok for tension.

and having experienced half-links and magic ratios - I can honestly say it's not a perfect solution. the tension will never be perfect.

Posted 1 year ago #
Andy R - Member

SprocketJockey -
I reckon you need to take at least one link out.... oh and position the tensioner so it's actually ON the chain

You won't get anything like a full link (2 pitches/1") out of that - you might get away with a half link but you'll still need the tensioner.
Or go to a sprocket one tooth larger (plus the tensioner) and see what difference that makes.

Posted 1 year ago #
Dancake - Member

Just bought an SJS half-link (2.99 but postage is a bit harsh so buy something else to make yourself feel better)

On my 456, I got perfect tension with 36-18 but now on the 29er with 36-20 you have to put an extra link in and it is just a bit crap with the superstar tensioner. I put a rear mech in for now. looks vile, but works well enough

Posted 1 year ago #
_tom_ - Member

In my limited experience rear mech as a tensioner works the best. The DMR one was rubbish but it may just have been because I had a terrible chain line.

Posted 1 year ago #
Tyredocter - Member

Find using an old derailler does the trick All you do is fit a long screw into the 'h' high gear hole A little plumbing around the threads helps Even an old v-brake screw might do Set the chain up as normal, 45 degrees for the jockey wheels, then screw in till the tinkling stops The derailler 'thinks' it's in gear

Posted 1 year ago #