I've just got some 07 revs. Very happy with them too. However, they seem to 'plunge' a bit on techy drops. What should I adjust?
Can someone give me a quick overview of the functions to clarify for me?
cheers, pook the dumbass.
Compression -
Rebound -
Negative air -
Positive air -
nobody know then? 
set positive and negative air at similar pressures, so you get the right amount of sag ~25% (do positive first or you will loose travel). Then set rebound so its as fast as you like it. then you can set how much compression damping you want. i usually leave mine all the way open for descents, then have it turned up to maximum, with the floodgate open quite a long way for climbs/flats.
I believe if the rate they are going through travel etc, the taking a but of negative air out will make them dive less, bit they will also be less plush...
Yeah, I'd agree with Lyons...reduce the -ve if diving but at the cost of losing some small bump sensitivity.
Noticed the same with my 08 revs (same fork as 07) but preferred running the -ve high to keep the plushness...just about finding the right compromise between diving and plushness.
So what doe they all do....
Compression -
Rebound -
Negative air -
Positive air -
google them lazy-ass!
PS I'd say more +ve air or compression damping.
Compression = dampens the rate at which the forks compress, more dampening helps prevent you blowing through all the travel easily, less dampening makes the fork feel plusher but you will dive more under braking and when you point downhill as you pointed out above.
Rebound = slows the rate which they extend, too fast and they feel like a pogo stick ready to spring you off, too slow and the forks will get shorter and compress down with quick sucsession bumps as they have no time to recover.
Positive air = basically just your spring strength, heavyer rider = more air. inflate to a pressure that gives the correct sag.
Negative air = this helps combat sticktion in the initial travel of the fork by effectivly changing the spring rate through the first inch or so of travel. The more negative air, the easyer the fork will compress at the begining of the stroke, less air and the force required to initiate travel will be slightly higher giving a stiffer fork. The trade off to having plusher forks with slightly more -ve pressure is that you will go through the first part of the forks travel easyer and dive more than if you have less negative air.
If you have a non poplock compression adjuster you can add a little compression dampening to slow the dive without locking the fork out. However, if your stuck with lockout on or off with a pushlock/poplock, you can lockout the fork and fettle the blowoff pressure to get a similar effect.
Pook I just purchased some ebay rev's and didn't have a clue either so thanks for asking these questions!
Make sure you set the positive air pressure up first, then the negative. I find equal pressures in each is about the best compromise
thanks guys - just what i needed.
Chris - if its any help I put 115 psi in both my chambers, so maybe a little less for you 110?
If it's diving a bit much then add a touch more compression damping... That should help prop the fork up under braking etc. But don't add too much otherwise you'll make the fork spike.
Reducing the pressure in the negative chamber compared to the positive really isn't going to make that much difference to the fork diving too much, the Negative chamber is so small in comparison to the positive, that as soon as the fork moves a little bit, the chamber increases massively and the pressure drops massively accordingly. All this means the negative chamber really is only making any difference on about the first 10mm of fork travel or so, thereafter nothing at all!
Try what TF Tuned recommended to me. Put about 5 to 10psi more in the -ve chamber and turn your motion control knob to fully on i.e. firmest setting. That way the fork is still active over small bumps cos of the higher -ve pressure, but dives less cos of the max motion control. You'll lose a wee bit of travel as the higher pressure in the -ve will suck it up a bit, but well worth trying. Worked well on my '06 Pikes.
I've got some 2010 Revs and have set up them as described by Rickos (although I have my compression set 2 clicks away from lockout) - works great.
Rickos ...surely when the Mc knob (ie compression) is on firmest setting then the fork is pretty much locked out and therefore pretty inactive ...no ?
Presumabley he means with the floodgate set to fully open.
Pointless setting imvho. 
might as well completely remove the compression damper if you're doing that
I think he means just have lots of low speed compression damping, not lock it out.
kaiser - Member
Rickos ...surely when the Mc knob (ie compression) is on firmest setting then the fork is pretty much locked out and therefore pretty inactive ...no ?
I mean turn the little knurled gold knob to full on, not the outer lever. Leave the outer floodgate lever fully open.
the floodgate gold knurled knob is inactive if the compression dial is open tho rickos - therefore that does nothing as it is a blow off valve for the lockout
mr_mills knows what I mean. Ask him.
the floodgate gold knurled knob is inactive if the compression dial is open tho rickos - therefore that does nothing as it is a blow off valve for the lockout
no it isn't, the manual says so but it is wrong. It applies at any LSC setting.
My personal setup is about 55% closed LSC, gate set to about 8 clicks from open. That way you get nice firm LSC with no brake dive, but the fork is fully active over bumps.
If you do the same thing with the floodgate closed, the fork will spike on any big hits as it can't let enough oil through the LSC orifice.
Heh! He said orifice.
Heh! He said orifice.
I also got a couple of laughs in the bike shop at the weekend asking for grips without a flange
With this in mind - my positive air needed topping up. Guides recommend 115psi for me. It was at 60psi.
would that explain the plunging?
I mean turn the little knurled gold knob to full on, not the outer lever. Leave the outer floodgate lever fully open.
The gold knob is the floodgate adjuster
The outer knob is the compression (damping) adjuster
The floodgate adjuster sets the "blow-off" level i.e. how hard a hit get's the fork moving again when the compression damping is on full (locked out).
This topic has been closed to new replies.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
