I run an old skool bulb on my 5 so I don't see any benefit from going to 10mm thru axle. I've already got a 15mm axle downsized to 10mm at the dropout fixed in place with a qr skewer which fully supports the axle along it's length.
A ProII has a 15mm axle that's downsized to 12, 10 or qr but in a different way from the XC/Bulb hubs. The qr and 10mm version have end caps that close over the end of the axle to form the interface betwen axle and dropout. So on these hubs a 10mm axle will be a stiffer fixing because the skewer being 10mm will sit in the dropout not the axle end cap. The Maxle version @ 12mm is even stiffer but that's because it threads into the dropout and fixes the skewer to the frame at both ends.
A maxle light may not be stronger than a 10mm thru axle on Hopes though. I've seen a few snap the axle where they get no internal support from the Maxle light skewer at the driveside hub bearing seat. This is a machined step in the axle which is a stress raiser.
But apart from that, unless you've got a really stiff wheel build, how can you differentiate between axle stiffness and wheel deflection?
"It feels stiffer" isn't a reliable source of data for a test of this percieved extra stiffness.
It's a placebo. They're selling you stiffness that you can't perceive based on the fact nobody would question it for fear of ridicule.
Congratulations! you just bought a load of bollocks!