Got a set of Raceface cranks and having gone through the Raceface BB which lasted all of 6 months swapped it for a Hope s/st BB. This weekend while fettling the bike, I noticed play in the BB (only been installed a couple of months). As there doesn’t seem to be any way of telling how much preload is applied, with the change to a Hope BB, I have tried to ensure that the centre bolt is tightened to a minimum (is this is making sence!) so as not to load the bearings. Now I’ve increased the bolt torque to take out the play, but not sure if the bearings have gone (as there is still some play). How do I know if I have the correct preload, or should I cut my losses and replace with the equivalent Shimano crank? Has anyone had similar issues? Thanks…

RaceFace cranks don’t have a set torque amount – they just have a ‘dead stop’ when the two halves of the crank meet. Hence you do them up as tight as you can..

Are these x type? Check it isn’t just a loose left hand crank. The crank bolt has to be done up mega tight against the axle splines or the crank works loose. I have some. I wish I had shimano.

Yes they are x-type, but I noticed that when done up “tight” the Hope bb dust cover started to turn with the crank arm; is this normal?

RF setup is relatively straightforwards, but the number of people that dont hard stop their crank retaining bolt then suffer loosening crank arms and worst case scenario mangling the splines is frustrating.

Here’s my process:

Install BB with spacers as per your BB shell width.
regerence the manual for how many preload washers to use…. as ytou’re not using a RF BB, this is trial and error.. but in all honesty, even with an RF BB its only a guide anyway.

Install any washers and install DS crankarm through BB
Install any other washers and locate Non-DS crank arm based on chainline.

Start tightening.
As you get tighter, you will be able to feel for play by holding and rocking DS/nonDS arms.
Once that rocking has gone.. continue tightening as you still need to reach bottom out stop…
However, go steady here as you dont want to over preload the BB by hamfistedly getting to the stop.. if your crank arms begin to feel tight as you rotate by hand.. STOP, remove the non-DS crank arm and DS crank arms and remove 1 preload washer.
[ you may have to change your washer numbers/sizes a few time till you get it right. RF supply a wider preload elastomer also to help fine tune ]
Continuing to tighten with heavily preloaded bearings and you are basically killing them.
Go through the process again.
You want to be able to freely spin the crank arms whilst the bearings are working.. it should still a very small amount of bearing drag.

Basically, you want to achieve zero BB spindle play in the cups without applying too much side preloading to the BB

If you over preload the BB, expect it to last very little time
If you fail to reach the hard stop, expect your cranks to loosen and then you’ll feel spindle play.. or miss that and your left crank arm will fall off.

Once you meet that happy balance of preload, and chainline with a solid bottom out on the crank retaining bolt you are good to go!
Nothing will come loose and your BB will last as long as it possible ever will.. still might only be 6mo though!

when done up “tight” the Hope bb dust cover started to turn with the crank arm; is this normal?

yes.. once you start to preload the BB bearings, the dust cover is pinched between the crank arm and BB inner race.. without contact, no preload and you have an effective gap where dirt/water will get in and your BB will kill itself.
If the dust covers didn’t turn with cranks, then you had zero preload hence your feeling of play.

I think I only had one preload washer; when I swapped the RF for the Hope BB i just put everything back in place as per the original setup. Do I need to buy more washers – how do I “know” how many washers to install?

Sorry BearBack, I’m replying before refreshing the thread! So the Hope dust cover turning with the crank is a good thing! I’ll give this a go and see if I can remove all play, while still being able to spin the crank freely…

RF install instructions

Cranks come with 2 (well 2 + a bag with 1 extra plus the narrower preload elastomer)

Try tightening steadily till you hit the bottom out on the crank retaining bolt.. but monitor how much preload you have as you continue tightening. Too much preload and stop/undo/remove.

RF and Hope BB’s will likely be different widths so preload spacers requirements are likely to be different also.

As a guide for reaching the bottom out.. you probably need an allen key/wrench as long as the crank arms to apply enough torque to reach bottom out.. you will know when you get there though!

Many thanks all; I’ll dis-assemble to see what I have installed before following the above procedure (thanks BB). But I’m with you Buzz-L, wish I had Shimano!

wish I had Shimano!

I don’t, I’ll stick with Race Face…why would I want cranks that need special tools to fit/remove and have to pay crazy prices for replacement rings? Another great thing was that when I changed to 10sp, all I had to do was replace the rings rather than the whole chainset.