Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • please tell me what i need for my new rim to be tubeless
  • rotary
    Free Member

    i have a new stans ztr flow rim with no tape or anything on. im putting a maxxis minion on which indicates on the casing that it is tubeless ready.

    should i buy option 1 which is quite expensive
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stans-no-tubes-flow-tubeless-kit-2015/rp-prod116721

    or can i get away with option 2 which is cheaper
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-tubeless-kit-for-hoops-on-stans-ztr/rp-prod49111

    stevied
    Free Member

    Option 2 will be fine. That’s what I used. Superstar do the same type of stuff cheaper too

    rotary
    Free Member

    cheers stevied

    robware
    Free Member

    Bottle of sealant, valves, and Tesa 4289 strapping tape. The Tesa tape is basically the same stuff as the tubeless tape.

    riklegge
    Full Member

    You could even go for option 3; get some gorilla tape from somewhere like b&q and some tubeless valves and sealant. There will be enough tape to do several wheels if you need to, and I have found it to be easier to apply and more reliable than the stans tape. It also has the bonus of being a bit cheaper.

    euain
    Full Member

    I bought the superstar tape and it was much thinner than the Stan’s; horrible to put on and didn’t seem to stick so well. I binned it after one wheel and bought some Stan’s.

    Option 2 is the correct/better kit for your setup (actually, no reason not to buy the tape, valves and sealant separately if you want).

    Option 1 is actually not the recommended for your setup – you should use the yellow tape and a valve with Stan’s rims. The other kit is for rims which aren’t easy to seal with the yellow tape or don’t hold the bead in a way that’s so airtight.. It’s a posh version of the ghetto tubeless option where you’d cut open a 20″ innertube.

    rotary
    Free Member

    thanks for all the info, really helpful. looks like superstar are out of stock of the 25mm tape anyway (believe its 25mm i need for the flow rim)

    PJM1974
    Free Member

    All you really need is a roll of electrical tape (99p at my local Co-Op), plus valves. Specialized sell their presta valves for four quid each, so you can be up and running for the price of a couple of pints.

    I’ve always used electrical tape, I’ve never had an issue provided that you build up a couple of layers and ensure that no air can leak into the inside of the rim.

    endurokid
    Free Member

    I’m using option 2 with the same rims and it has been fine, no leaks whatsoever.

    Easy to do and I found it good value too.

    sillyoldman
    Full Member

    Gorilla Tape Handy Rolls are 25mm wide and cost under £3.00. Same stuff that Enve supply with their rims to make tubeless.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    The WTB rim tape is the same as Stans, is available in 25mm and you get more for your money.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    euain – Member

    I bought the superstar tape and it was much thinner than the Stan’s; horrible to put on and didn’t seem to stick so well.

    Other than the colour I can’t really tell the 2 apart tbh.

    core
    Full Member

    I’ve used both now – the Stans rubber strips on a set of Mavic 521’s – they do work well, I’ve never had any issues with them, but they’re expensive for what they are and you shouldn’t need them on your rims anyway.

    Also used Gorilla tape and tubeless valves, on some sunringle rims that aren’t supposed to work tubeless. I really like the Gorilla tape, it doesn’t really stretch, moulds nicely into the well of the rim, and has a bit of thickness to it, so can tighten up the seat if you need it to with multiple layers. The thickness also helps it sit/seal nicely over the spoke holes, it just feels like it seals well, and is sticky as hell. It’s dirt cheap too.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Roval/spesh are good. I like the WTB/Superstar alu valves, they come in purty colours, they weigh nowt but also the big round “plug” is really unfussy about valve holes, tape cutting etc. (quite a lot of tubeless chat is about how to cut the tape at the valve hole, and that’s entirely because stans valves are actually pretty bad imo. )

    Gorilla tape is great when you apply it but the downside is it makes a bloody awful mess when you take it off. Don’t think I’ll use it again but it’s very effective.

    I’ve never seen this mentioned anywhere else but with wider rims, I think narrower tape is better. This is sort of hard to explain, but… If the tape goes all the way to the edge, it’s fine. But if it doesn’t, then when you unmount a tyre it can push the tape over with it (since it’s sitting on the edge of the tape, or not on the tape at all and gets pushed into it as the tyre comes off) But if you go narrower then with a wide rim, the tape’s entirely in the rim bed and safe from the tyre.

    So frinstance I use roval blue tape on my lighbicycle 33mm rims. It means the tyre rests on teh carbon instead of tape, which work fine, and there’s no danger of the tape getting pushed off with a tyre.

    Tracey
    Full Member

    Used 12mm on our SS Carbons as the wider stuff wouldn’t work. Abigales new Rovals have come with loads of plastic bungs for each spoke hole instead of tape, not got round to doing them yet as she’s still unsure on the Slaughter on the back it

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