Nowhere to be seen...
[url= http://www.on-one.co.uk/bikes ]http://www.on-one.co.uk/bikes[/url]
seems odd.
I think they don't sell them 'cos they didn't sell?
Although if you talk to them I'm sure they'd put one together for you at a good price.
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/YBCL148271/on_one_inbred_swap_out_single_speed_18_inch_pearl_necklace
I saw a fixie on there too but they are ex display
A lot of the bikes are swapout - they'll convert with the dropout thingy. Plenty singlespeed frames about too
To clarify, I meant whole bikes.
So buy a geared bike and sell the gears? Or buy a frame and all the bits separately then build it yourself? Or its a custom build?
Still seems odd to me given how central to the companies ethos single speeds were....
Probably why I haven't bought anything from them for a while. Any SS stuff is swamped by the gearie tack so I don't look any further. Bearing in mind most of my purchases have been impulse buys, this is saving me money. 🙂
I agree, I wanted a SS inbred but nowadays they are like £800 min on their site, and now never advertised much on their site.
Silly business sense imo.
Can't say this ever occurred to me. Maybe before my time.ChrisS - Member
how central to the companies ethos single speeds were....
Now I'm just confused about the Planet X / On One split. It seemed that PX was all about road and OO about MTB but it's all over the place 🙂
SS bikes are wanted by people who build their own I imagine as they wasn't a cheap bike. The onone ss bike cost nearly the same as the alfine 8 ones.
I don't speak like that really.....as small phone screen meant the words got jumbled!
I think the market for singlespeed complete bikes isn't what it was five years ago.
We do now have some true dedicated singlespeed frames in stock, but you're quite right... It's important to remember our roots and we will be hopefully putting some SS bikes together.
Good plan.
Yes.
Hmm.
29in SS complete bike by this time next week.
Can't say this ever occurred to me. Maybe before my time.
I always assumed they were called "on-one" as in "on one speed", they only did SS frames for a while?
Don't do ought like the gimp anymore either.
Cool 😆 was looking 'cos I fancy a new ss commuter, not sure exactly what though... 29er, flat or drop bar pompetamine maybe.
Welcome to on-one, the home of our great UK singlespeed bikes and products. We're building a rep for offering everything for the hardcore rider, whatever they want, as long as they only want one gear (though we do sell gear hangers, ahem...)
Taken from [url= http://web.archive.org/web/200012150421/http://www.on-one.co.uk/ ]http://web.archive.org/web/200012150421/ http://www.on-one.co.uk/ [/url]
Way back in Dec 2000.
and this is what gofar-mtb.com (precursor to singletrackworld) had to say about them at the time:
[url= http://web.archive.org/web/200101110737/http://www.gofar-mtb.com/News/170.html ]Free vegetables with every singlespeed![/url]
IA - Member
Can't say this ever occurred to me. Maybe before my time.
I always assumed they were called "on-one" as in "on one speed", they only did SS frames for a while?
Don't do ought like the gimp anymore either.
The "one" in On-One was never about singlespeed. But I can see why you thought that.
Essentially we are on-one. Odd, to Planet-x's even.
brant - Member
I think the market for singlespeed complete bikes isn't what it was five years ago....
The problem being that when you buy one you don't need to buy anything else for 10 years - apart from replacement consumables.
May have to lower your QC Brant 🙂
I can see "drop bar pompetamine" on that page.
only with alfines....
I always associate the "on-one" moniker as part of my misspent, unhealthy, but very happy youth 😳
only with alfines....
I'm afraid the Pompetamine arrived when I was away. Did they used to do a SS version?
Good question. Dunno. I thought they did, but I couldn't be certain.
The trouble with singlespeed frames is they are still compromised. As I see it there are 4 solutions to singlespeeding a bike:
1 vertical dropouts with a tensioner - more weight, ugly, extra kit to go wrong
2 horizontal dropouts - apparently a bit of a nightmare for brake alignment plus they're ugly. Wheel needs to be aligned.
3 sliding dropouts - look fiddly and ugly. Again, wheel needs to be aligned.
4 vertical dropouts with magic ratio - limited life of chain, limited choice of gears
I think there are probably other solutions too (ebb?), but they're expensive or maybe just heavy so go against the whole principle of singlespeeding. Ultimately though my main frustration is lack of choice if I don't want vertical dropouts or a 29er.
What we need here is something really innovative to combat the above and provide the ultimate singlespeeding frame solution. The frame would also need to be gearable with the same ease as vertical dropouts so that all frames could adopt the standard leaving is singlespeeders with the full range of choice. It could be like one of those engineering challenges like the $10 million (or whatever the exact amount) prize for launching a private rocket in to space. In this case we could be more modest, maybe just a tin of biscuits...?
The art of the possible, or maybe I'm just talking rubbish...?
or maybe I'm just talking rubbish...?
yep 😉
How about variable size wheels, rather than geerz?
i think Salsa have the drop out thing sorted
gingerss you missed out "5 track ends" which are provided on Brant's excellent singlespeed pressed dropouts with slotted gear mounts. On-one called it "Slot dropout" for a while. They work superbly with a chaintug on the driveside, and wheel alignment is easily achieved by eye looking at the tyre between the chainstays 🙂
Salsa's system looks nice - does it creak like sliding dropouts? They pinched that idea from someone didn't they?
Sort of - Black Cat Bikes make a similar system but the Salsa parts are much less 'shed' looking.
GB
Not seen those 5 track end thingies - will do some googling...
In the meantime, maybe a belt drive that uses a special kind of belt made from material similar to the d3o stuff or cornflower. I.e. you can stretch it by applying a gentle force, but as soon as you apply a large amount of force, e.g. pedalling, then all the stretchyness instantaneously disappears and you get 100% power transfer like with a chain.
You'd be able to stretch it over your choice of cogs and it would naturally contract to form a good tension. With it stretching you couldn't use a toothed belt, but maybe a multi-v type belt as used in cars could work...?
How it would cope with mud and grit is questionable.
For my next challenge I will be attempting to acquire a moon on a stick...
I'm surprised the IBIS Tranny approach of changing the chainstay length to adjust tension isn't more widely used. Cost, I guess.
Having said that, an EBB has been the best method I've used for chain tension adjustment, particularly when it comes to trailside puncture repairs.
[i]you can stretch it by applying a gentle force, but as soon as you apply a large amount of force, e.g. pedalling, then all the stretchyness instantaneously disappears[/i]
silly putty chains anyone?
That salsa solution does look good, can I get it on a 26" frame?
Mmm black cats.
On-one track end:
[img] 
[/img]
In the meantime, maybe a belt drive that uses a special kind of belt made from material similar to the d3o stuff or cornflower. I.e. you can stretch it by applying a gentle force, but as soon as you apply a large amount of force, e.g. pedalling, then all the stretchyness instantaneously disappears and you get 100% power transfer like with a chain.
A [url= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-Newtonian_fluid ]Non-Newtonian fluid[/url]?
In a non-Newtonian fluid, the relation between the shear stress and the shear rate is different, and can even be time-dependent. Therefore a constant coefficient of viscosity cannot be defined. Obviously.
[img] 
[/img]
on-one track ends/slotted drop outs work great
"That salsa solution does look good, can I get it on a 26" frame?"
Salsa Ala Carte 
gingerss - Member
The trouble with singlespeed frames is they are still compromised. As I see it there are 4 solutions to singlespeeding a bike:...
The EBB isn't a compromise if it is done properly. I reckon it's the best method and it's not heavy.
what about a WI ENO HUB?
What we need here is something really innovative to combat the above and provide the ultimate singlespeeding frame solution.
You're absolutely right. The problem with many singlespeed-specific frames is that they are far too simple. What we need is a really advanced technological solution - perhaps reciprocal eccentric rear hub and bottom bracket controlled by electric motors and governed by an electronic brain that automatically adjusts chainline etc to suit different gearing combinations.
The other, more straightforward solution, that perhaps is more appealing, would be to create a standardised frame with a fixed distance between chainring and cog based on specified diameters for both. Then, rather than change cog size, market a range of chainrings and cogs with different tooth numbers but a standard diameter. That way, the chain length will always be consistent, but you can change gearing simply by swapping rings and cogs.
Another advantage of this for the cash strapped is that you could always grind off a couple of teeth on chainring or cog to raise or lower the gearing. Say you're running 32:18 and want a higher gear, simply grind a couple of teeth off the cog to give a 32:16 ratio or if you want a lower gear, do the same at the chainring, say 31:16 or 30:16.
Makes a lot of sense to me. It would also reduce the price of SS-specific frames by deleting complex details like sliding drop-outs and track ends.
And if your chain has worn enough to skip, doh, simply fit a new chain. It means it's worn out anyway.
Lots of interesting solutions...
Say you're running 32:18 and want a higher gear, simply grind a couple of teeth off the cog to give a 32:16 ratio
Hmmm, I'm thinking it might not be quite so simple.
I guess there might be some merit in standardising the chainstay length, or possibly a little simpler would be for manufacturers to measure and publish the magic ratio's for their frames. With this I'm sure I wouldn't mind replacing the chain a little earlier each time. I don't expect this from specialized etc, but maybe on-one and the other more grass roots builders could consider it...?
Anyway, I think for now I have a reliable and tidy solution (456 SS SS with chain guide as tensioner) so am not too concerned.
like fenred, i was under the impression on-one was a ref to brants youth, him being of the rave/madchester generation.
EBB FTW
Another advantage of this for the cash strapped is that you could always grind off a couple of teeth on chainring or cog to raise or lower the gearing. Say you're running 32:18 and want a higher gear, simply grind a couple of teeth off the cog to give a 32:16 ratio or if you want a lower gear, do the same at the chainring, say 31:16 or 30:16.
And you could carry a few spare teeth and a tube of araldite out on rides in case there are any really big hills. I like this idea 🙂
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth.
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth.
But there're fewer teeth!
[i]But there're fewer teeth![/i]
🙂
Damn, I'm even getting basic grammar wrong now, that is how cross I am!
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth.
If that's the case, why are singlespeed ratios always quoted in teeth rather than ring diameter then? I think you maybe need to think a bit harder before posting 🙄
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth
If that's the case, why are singlespeed ratios always quoted in teeth rather than ring diameter then? I think you maybe need to think a bit harder before posting
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring
[i]Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring [/i]
Look up! Something went over your head 🙂
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring
Exactly, which is why it makes a lot more sense to have the same diameter rings as standard, but with a different number of teeth. No need for different size rings at all and that has to reduce manufacturing costs, no?
Yes, Ison in the UK still have some 26" steel Ala Carte frames with the Alternator dropouts. Salsa have stopped making 26" bikes do if you want one get in quick! I have one of the 26" ones and they are really well put together steel frames. The dropouts are the same across all Alternator bikes so no worries about spares etc.
GB
Do you ever get the impression that half the people in a thread are taking the mick and the other half taking it seriously?
If you wanted to be really 'hard' you could get a big plate cog, like a 36 tooth or something, and grind off all but 2 opposing teeth. You could tell your mates that you run 32/2. The downsides are that you would need to pedal really carefully and your new ring wouldn't be very durable.
Is it 2002 again? 😕
[i]misses the lil red 'bred[/i]
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ringLook up! Something went over your head
Doh!
I have a hangover
That's my excuse and Im sticking to it 😀
Fork Travel: 80 - 100 mm
Can't find reference to the head angle but my preference is toward long travel slack angles.
That said I wouldn't be so averse to dipping my toe in to the short-travel XC style hardtail waters at some point in the future. It would be good to see this kind of solution appear on more bikes, that is of course providing that it actually works in practice.
Anyway Salsa's solution has proven that my original 'request' was not so 'moon on a stick' as I had first presumed.
I heard they are changing their name to on-twenty seven. 😉
The drop-outs on the Pace RC129 look quite tidy and certainly work well in practice. Once set up I pretty much forget about them.
[img] 
[/img]
Sliding dropouts on my voodoo bokor 29 work well and are tidy:
[img] 
[/img]
Shows them reasonably well. Just noticed that's an older one with vee mounts, but mine's the same less the vee mounts.
I wonder what the next must have niche will be ?
All the nicheists round by me went 26SS>69SS> 29SS> Phat.
Whats next, 650b ?
Right - 29er SS won't be appearing, as a quick sum suggests that frame, carbon fork, disc brakes, nice wheels, Middleburn cranks, decent bar/stem comes in at around £999 RRP as a complete.
Buying all the bits on our site is £1090 apparently.
Can't see us selling many of those.
Why not a cheap 29er ss? I know when i was buying whilst there were good deals at OO for inbred 29ers, they were better kit than I wanted. I wanted a steel fork, cheap cranks etc. to dip a toe in the 29er waters.
Having said that, I'm liking the big wheels now so might go balls deep. As it were.
Hi Brant
Why does it need to be nice wheels & middleburn cranks, why not own cheap wheels and deore cranks. giving those who want to try something new and chance to test it out for not much outlay, and upgrade if they enjoy it?
I think this is where on-one had a dilemma.
'most' singlespeed riders who'll spend more than £500 are probably experienced and will buy somthing above 'base model'.
When they coudl sell cheap v-braked bikes for £400 complete people took a punt on them as SS thinkign they could add gears later if they wanted to, but at £700 or £800 people will think twice?
Like this? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67795
It has Middleburns and nice wheels as that's what we have in stock.
Hmmm, maybe I'd be better off with a roadrat then for commuting.... £575 at the moment with v-brakes and steel forks, £650 with discs, £750 with discs and a carbon fork.
you probably know more about how that sold @ CRC than we do brant but that's the sort of package that on-one used to put together fairly regularly?
I think, at that price and as someone who's 29er curious I would be tempted buy somethign with on-one geometry and slightly more 'off road' tyres.
tbh, if the Vitus had a slightly more off-road bent I'd be looking at what I could do to get it.
scruff - MemberI wonder what the next must have niche will be ?
All the nicheists round by me went 26SS>69SS> 29SS> Phat.
Whats next, 650b ?
only for fence-sitters 😉
oh,and anyone whos even slightly nichetastic knows that 36ers are the only way forward....
oh,and anyone whos even slightly nichetastic knows that 36ers are the only way forward....
Fairly niche but surely for full nicheness you need to go recumbent, or maybe even trike.
A "29er converter" bundle ( http://www.on-one.co.uk/c/q/frameset_bundles) might make sense? 29er frame, fork, wheels, tyres and tubes; everything that someone with a bike already needs to convert in one bundle that they can sell on if they hate.
back to the drop-out question:
While I appreciate the Salsa solution: what's - in practice - wrong with this style of drop-outs?
[img] 
[/img] Lynskey
[img] 
[/img] Canfield Nimble9
they look sleek and non-fussy, you can run SS or geared...
Do they creak, come lose? is the brake-alignement an issue?
.
.
wwaswas - Member
EBB has been the best method I've used for chain tension adjustment, particularly when it comes to trailside puncture repairs.
Why do you need to adjust the chain tension after fixing a puncture? Isn't it just wheel out, wheel in without any changes to chain tension/wheel position/brake alignment? I wouldn't want to fiddle with my BB trailside anyway, would I? 😕
.
.
niche:
[img] http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT1jllCuEm5NSMabsjTUZzpWFi1gaaVap04EvsHbs_zU2EiVhx2exJtjWQaOA [/img]
should lend itself to drifting (not much else though, I suppose)
Hock - I meant physically removing the back wheel from a dropout is easier with one that allows the wheel to be removed without releasing chain tension by dropping it off the sprocket/chainring first.
got it! 😉
Are the people moaning about SS dropouts on this thread for real?
Are you sure you're not looking for a solution to a problem which doesn't exist..
Surly 1x1 with track ends + tuggnut. NEVER slipped. No bother. Job done
Surly 1x1 with track ends + tuggnut. NEVER slipped. No bother. Job done
running with disc brakes?
I had disc brake misalignment in horizontal track ends despite tugnut (one sided though).
I'm still curious what's the issue (if there is one) with those sliding vertical dropouts like Nimble9 above.
They and arguably the Salsa solution should be perfect as long as they don't slide'n'creak, no?!
the sliding drop outs like pictured above are the perfect solution to me and one I'd fit to any frame I was designing for geared or SS. Well except for an eccentric BB of course.
I hate frames with oval brake disc holes that mean you have to adjust the brake position when tensioning the chain.
On one slot drop outs, no fuss work fine bothe singlepeed and with gears. How often do you need to tension a chain, once a month? Most times the brake will be fine anyway.
Should be standard on all bikes.
(Brant: please can I have a new Scandal just like the old one but with bigger wheels?)
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
How about a floating chainring? That's what is sometimes done on tandem timing chains, some long recumbent chains and the like. You bung a chainring in the middle, held only by the tensdion of the upper and lower chains. Pick the right size, and move it fore or aft a bit, and you can compensate for any tension you need to take up.
It'd probably only work with an elevated chainstay, but they're due a comback by now anyway...