I think the whole "off the back" thing has been overhyped, more than one rider I know automatically assumes that you need to be behind the saddle on a descent, when that's rarely the case. the idea of moving behind the saddle is to keep your centre of gravity over the bike's centre of gravity. if you need to be behind the saddle to achieve that, you;re riding some seriously steep stuff
Bike Forum
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New Blue Pig (pics)
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Posted 2 years ago #
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As it happens....... the worst tumble I had was due to my being too far over the back. I hit a deep trough at about 40mph on a long steep descent and wasn't able to push my weight foreward enough in time to counter the effects of the up on the exit to the trough. The front end flew up and I ditched onto my back. My 'auto unthought ride control system' must have picked up on that because it hasn't happened since!
Posted 2 years ago # -
40mph
Posted 2 years ago # -
billyboy - Member
This dial up connection won't get me into that video inside of a large part of an hour so I shall try a clicky clicky on that link in my grub break at work tomorrow and prepare to be ..........converted.Not that I will benefit. I'm 50 and when I try to relearn riding techniques I keep on crashing until I erase all new thoughts from my head and return to the 'unthought auto ride setting' that has kept me out of hospital.....................so far. (If in doubt/bottle out)
That`s not old...got a few yrs to catch me up.Here is mine, a real budget build!!
I bought the frame.
Stripped and used all the bits I could from my Kona and Bontrager. Bought some 3rd hand forks, some new cables, scrounged a 70mm stem, ex Ridgeback and built it up. Width of bars = nae idea, just as they came out of the box(East Monkey)
Some people just over anylize stuff. Stop thinking and just ride!!!
I do find I have to stop myslef shoving my bum over the back of the seat. Old dogs can learn new tricks billyboy
Having gone over the bars lots when I started I got into the habit of overcompensating(or just bailing
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The Pig feels just like my Kona Dawg in some ways and can do all it does.
But then again I tend to just ride without thinking too much.Posted 2 years ago # -
I know its not an entirely relevant comparison, but look at the way Sam Hill et. al. ride; right over the front. with your body weight over the front tyre you have way more control in corners as you're loading force into your tyres allowing them better grip. a big bike like the pig has enough suspension up front to handle your body weight being up there... try running your forks a bit stiffer if not!
Posted 2 years ago # -
Next time I descend the Walna Scar Road to Coniston I'm going to make a conscious effort to try and remember what I do actualy do on the way down.
I did it with a girlfriend once....pause for applause....no, the Walna Scar Road.... She had made a deliberate decision to buy a bike that was a size too large for her because of comfort issues with correct sized bikes. Her descending of the more serious steep slopes was scarry to watch because she couldn't equalise her centre of gravity.
Whatever the right answer is, I think Brant's take on frame building is spot on. The 456s I've got are the most accomplished hardtails I've ridden for Lakeland etc type use. My Pace303 feels marginally better on steep descents but for everything else I prefer the 456 and since I bought my first steel one two years ago, the 303 has lived in the shed.
Posted 2 years ago # -
The other thing about having a slack head angle is that your fork will compress more in the horizontal plane than if you had a steep head angle if you get what I mean - not very well described I know. A bit like the way full-sus bikes sometimes claim to have a 'rearward axle path' to deal with 'square-edge hits'.
This might seem like a small difference, but will make it less likely that you go over the bars if you hit something.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Even though I ride a bike with a steep head angle and rigid forks, it's very rare that I have to hand right off the back of the bike. I do tend to keep the weight off the front wheel on descents, but that's to make it easier to lift it over stuff.
Never have your arms straight is the key to staying in control.
Posted 2 years ago # -
get rid of it...you won't be the first.All you are going to hear on this forum is people defending their product or current ride.Have a decent test ride next time.
Offer him a refund Brant, or a lesson Ed...Posted 2 years ago # -
crackhead - Member
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Posted 2 years ago # -
" do tend to keep the weight off the front wheel on descents, but that's to make it easier to lift it over stuff"
Yeah that is the way to keep you eyeballs in when it get rocky - happy days! I think it helps to have a big plush fork with lots of sag to be that aggressive.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Sorry Brant,the comment was for sohara.Lost the thread of the thread!
Posted 2 years ago # -
This is my beast, i've put a link to it as i have no clue of how to put pics on here?????
Posted 2 years ago # -
50mm stem, 762mm wide-2" rise bars on a 20" 'Pig
Making Brrrrapppp brrraaaaappp Bultaco noises when I ride it seems to help.Posted 2 years ago # -
Domjons beast
Posted 2 years ago # -
Im having the same problem using the blue hope seatclamp, does not hold the seatpost correctly at all, just ordered a Ragley one. The FSA seatpost are $hite as well, two rides and its already pretty silver in parts!! Apart from that, loving the pig so far.
Posted 2 years ago # -
yay, ragley cheeky saddles arrived...getting rid of the Da Bomb one, bl00dy uncomfy...also the cap ends of the ragley grips keep coming off!! Any ideas how to fix? Tightened them as much as possible, but still easy to pull off.
Posted 2 years ago # -
not had a problem with my grips and they have had a few bashes, which grips? Mine are the skinny ones, i have some half waffle ones too but haven't used them yet though.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Could it be your bars? I've had bars be too thin for lockons to get a grip (one pair of eastons i had). Solution was a bit of leccy tape under the end of the grip round the bar, enough thickness to make it work.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Here's my Pig to add into the mix.
As others have said, it does need to be ridden a bit differently. On the first few rides I did think / worry I was more over the bars than usual and not moving back, but then realised that it was because I didn't need to move so far back. I also find it very easy to pop the front up despite being a bit more 'over the bars'.
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not had a problem with my grips and they have had a few bashes, which grips?
They are the half waffle ones...
Could it be your bars? I've had bars be too thin for lockons to get a grip (one pair of eastons i had). Solution was a bit of leccy tape under the end of the grip round the bar, enough thickness to make it work.Cool I will give this a go, I am running a pair of Kore Torsion bars...
Posted 2 years ago # -
"I also find it very easy to pop the front up despite being a bit more 'over the bars'. "
I actually find it a bit harder to pop the front than my previous Chameleon even with dropping down 20mm to a 50mm stem.I think its a bike you need to man up to a bit and show it who's boss, get over the front moto style and wring its neck sorta thing knowing the slack head angles working in your favour.
Posted 2 years ago # -
tjr666 the ragley seat-clamps are really good, and just work
Posted 2 years ago #
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