A bike that climbs like a mountain goat and descends like a demon?

Too much to ask?

Post pics if you’ve got em

How about a demonic mountain goat that rides like a bike? I’m sure I’ve seen a pic of that.

Like a a sporty offroader.
Generally when you try and strike compromises you end up getting the worst bits of both and get a bike that climbs like a downhill bike and descends like a cross country bike.
Most of the attributes are pretty mutual exclusive.
The best you can hope for is a bike that climbs acceptably and descends competently.

I would say its moon on a stick time yes. At the very least (and assuming you can get your geometry to adjust enough and effectively) then you need light weight for climbing and high strength for descending. That counts for frame wheels tyres and a few other components. You will need to sacrifice either weight or strength to some extent depending on what’s more important to you.

That or spend £4.5k on an S-Works Enduro.

wind the forks down to 150 or so and raise the saddle and it climbs no problems, in fact the only thing that holds it back on climbs is the unfit rider, however its a blast on the bits that go down.

It weighs in at about 29, if it had 819’s rather than 823’s and some lighter cranks it’d probably tick all your boxes.

But you can’t get em new, Orange alias don’t have the Jig anymore 🙁

I’m hoping my Banshee Spitfire matches up to that general description.

You missed “corners like it’s on rails” from the cliche box 😉

Jeeze Nutt; what a rubbish bike. 😐

Nutt floats like an oil tanker, stings like a duckling.

I think you may need a Bionicon.

They have them at Square Wheels.

blue pig, obviously.

Elfin, you still rollin on your bullbarred grifter?

Proper demonic descending is going to require strong wheels, heavy sticky tyres, neither of which will help with the climbing. Compromise is gonna be a reality. On paper at least think the bike which best fits the bill would be a 2011 S-Works Enduro with a strong/light build. In green 🙂

climb like a goat try loseing a few stone first muppet

Cue everyone recommending their latest bike.

Mollski – If I lost a few stone I’d be anorexic. Also, try not being such a tit. I know it’ll be hard given your I.Q and natural affinity for ignorance.

I’ve got a cove stiffee and a turner rfx. I was looking for some middle ground (and an excuse for another bike) FS preferably. I was thinking about a Transition Covert but I think that wouldl just replace the RFX.

I was thinking about this last night. Got two bikes, 04 Mount Vision 100mm travel, 26lb xc bike.
09 Wolf Ridge, 140mm travel, 33lb AM bike.
Been riding the WR for the last ten months and had got used to both the ridiculous amount of fun you can have going downhill and the -quite frankly – slow grind up the other side.
Last night i took the MV out.
Revelation – flew up hill and sprinted across the singletrack etc, easily outpaced my mate on his Orange 5. Got to the downhills and – due to being used to the ease of the WR – scared myself on them.

The WR is planted, solid and reassuring. The MV is lively, nimble and skittish. One is good for playing silly buggers on big hills, one is good for racing and long days in the saddle where climbing is gonna be plentiful.

Could you combine the best of both in a package thats real-world affordable? I’m not sure TBH.

Define real world affordable. Upto 3k or more?

I reckon you could get a decent 140mm frame (carbon if poss), build it with xt kit, have 2 sets of wheels, then use an angleset or offset bushings or similar to tweak it for different rides. Or go for middleweight wheels and tyres and aggressive angles if you dont want the faff.

And yes, this is kind of what I’m in the process of building lol. I do think for serious dh stuff you need a DH bike and for proper xc you need a featherweight flyer though.

DW 5 Spot

Or go 120mm travel and learn to ride properly? 120mm until you have it sorted then reduce the travel…

Says me on the 120mm bike who can’t climb or descend.

I guess it depends how much you want to get the wheels off the ground. I reckon most manufacturers don’t count on riders jumping on their 120mm bikes much! Also, the terrin you ride in surely plays a part.

Ive had a few test rides recently and found it quite easy to reach the limits of what a capable 120mm bike felt happy with. I’m sure I could have backed off and tried a little finesse but I don’t want a bike that makes me back off!