33lbs isn’t that heavy for a bike.

Ha ha the 55’s are going nowhere, best fork I have ever used. If I can get under 33lbs I’ll be chuffed, as you say for a DH capable 7 in travel bike its not bad at all!

I’d keep the SLX cranks, there’s not that much weight saving to be had from switching to a set of XT, throw the money saved at the wheels and fork…

Maybe have a browse here: Weighweenies just to give you a few ideas of what weighs what…

TBF ~34lbs isn’t really all that heavy, considering your Enduro is a longish travel bike with gears, chuffing great coil fork and shock, and a dropper, if you won’t give any of those parts up I doubt you’ll get the weight under 32lbs without stupid money being wasted…

You already know you’ll probably save more body mass by simply riding more, and maybe rationalizing what you stuff in that stupid great camelbak… come on you know you “over-pack” we all do it at some point…

Chapaking I live in the French Alps by the way – so the bike has to be pretty sturdy as any almost big ride will involve some serious DH at some point. Not to say that a good 140mm bike with a slack H/A and built sturdy wouldn’t cope quite well in most stuff but on the rougher DH it wouldn’t be as much fun.

What valve caps are you running?

If you actually want to do this then post a detailed spec of your bike then it’ll be very easy to see where to save weight. As everyone has already said, the fork is the easiest place to save weight here, a solo air lyric or 36 could be had for £300 or under second hand, or get a new X-Fusion Slant for £400ish new (they’re just over 2kg) and perform great apparently.

Save weight on the wheels and tyres if you can, you will notice savings there much sooner than you do on other parts, I recently changed from my 1100g and 800g ‘summer’ tyres to a pair of mud ones (about 600g each) and the bike accelerates like mad now.

I managed to get a Yeti 575 down to 26.5 lb at one stage but I used those superlight supersonic Conti 450g tyres – had to swap them for something decent immediately! Final weight for decent sturdy trail riding was 27.5 lb.
I had 140mm Revelations, Answer Carbon flat bars, Easton EA90 stem (lighter than the EC90!), SLX cranks, Hope Hoops with Crests, Thomson seatpost, various alloy bolts, titanium bolts etc.

Go tubeless with something like hans dampfs.

Swapping the fork for something lighter would result in significant weight savings, but also would result in significant downhill performance degradation, so I probably wouldnt do that.

1x 10 would be worthwhile if you’re fit enough/your hills are not that long/steep. I’m not fit enough for this though.

To be honest I wouldnt obsess over it too much, it gets expensive and if you’re the sort of person that buys an enduro , you wont really appreciate the benefits being lighter brings , but you’ll notice the compromises it brings. I speak as a 2005 enduro owner, and a 2010 Ibis Mojo HD owner.

I’ve just put a Marz 55 rc3 ti coil fork on the mojo, awesome fork, who cares its a pound heavier than a fox 36 float. Everything else on the Mojo is a careful balance between being light’ish weight, but not compromising downhill performance significantly.

I found ‘cheap’ ways of saving weight without sacrificing downhill performance are :-

– Tubeless tyres
– light weight pedals
– Carbon handlebars
– lightweight saddle
– decent cassette

Anything else either costs an absolute fortune (and some of the above are not really cheap), or impacts downhill performance

Final scores on the doors:

Weight before 33.6 lbs

Weight now 32.8 lbs

I changed the:

bars – from Rethal Fat bar 780mm to Fatbar Lites 740mm
cranks – from SLX to XT
brakes – from Deore to XT Trail
rotors – From Hope Floating 203 / 180 to Shimano Ice 180 / 180
wheels – From Hope with Flow EX’s to Hope with Arch EX’s
chain device – from E13 LG1 to MRP AMG
pedals – From DMR Vaults to Nukeproof.

I spent approx. 500 quid.

If I had only been doing this to make my bike lighter I would have been a bit miffed, but since it was mainly an exercise in freeing up some parts for a freeride bike build and making my trail bike a bit less like a DH bike while retaining its all-round capability then I am pretty happy with it.

My ibis mojo medium weighs 26lb with a dropper post
dt Swiss exc 150s
dt Swiss shock
Dt Swiss 5.1 s with nobby nics
Trutativ noir cranks and bars
Formula the one brakes
Xtr spds

Yeah just goes to show that all the weight is in the frame and forks and tyres really, tinkering doesn’t change that. Quite a different bike though I think.

Want to get it right?

Here comes the sad advice… make a spreadsheet with all the parts on it and their weights.
swap out things you want to try out on paper and see where you get to.

I was going to do better shimano cranks for the missus but realised it’s a waste of money, keeping an eye out for some cheap run out Carbon Sram ones.##If you want to do it without wasting money research the saveings.

Yes a different bike, but I also have a mojo hd 160 and that weighs 29lbs but starts off with a slightly lighter frame. The hd is probably be a better comparison but I reckon if I swap my bits over it would be close to 26lb and still be more of a comparative bike.
I think I save on the shock, the cranks and the wheels and tyres so it can be done .
What I would say is when I get on the non hd mojo after being on the hd it seems much more sprightly and nimble and willing but not at all flimsy or less tough, and I weigh 15 stone. Every week I think I should sell one but I just can’t do it.
I enjoy the weight of the hd and the lightness of the other one equally as much

I think I’ll stick with what I have now, I think it’s pretty much ideal for the riding I do and I can ride it all day.