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Tell me about going 1x9

23 posts & 12 voices | Started 1 year ago by Xan | Latest reply from Xan

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Xan - Member

Looks like I'm making progress in collecting the parts for me first self build commuter. Have heard a bit about 1x9 and want to know the advantages? Are there any?

Also what do I need to do this? From past posts it looks like I need the following.

- Bash guard to replace the outer ring (Deore crankset getting fitted)
- Standard 9 speed shifter (I have an old SLX one lying about I can use
- Short cage rear mech (can I use a long cage, again have an SLX lying about I could use)
- Chain guide??

As for crank ring and cassette what setup do I go for. Was thinking 11t-34t on the rear and 38t on the front. also do in need anything to replace the granny ring with?

thanks.

Posted 1 year ago #
ski - Member

You might need smaller chain ring bolts or file the old ones down a bit so they bite.

Are you planning any off road stuff Xan, if so, I would drop the front chain ring down from 38t to 32t, apart from that it all sounds good.

As for a chain guide, you might get away without one on a smooth commute, I know some on here do, but for peace of mind its worth fitting one.

Posted 1 year ago #
alexpalacefan - Member

I've no bash ring and no chain guide, there's no need for road riding, and isn't the idea to simplify things.

Either get short chainring bolts, Charlie the Bikemonger or similar, or cut the mounting tabs off an old big ring and use them.

A long cage mech is fine, as is the SLX shifter.

As to the front ring, depends on how hilly it is. For Sheffield I used an 11-32 cassette and a 36t chainring.

Best of luck,

APF

Posted 1 year ago #
Xan - Member

Will be all road miles, maybe a little light off road/tow path but will all be relativley smooth.

Will be mainly used in or about Edinburgh so also fairly flat but there are a few short sharp climbs.

Cutting the old outer ring sounds a good option. My mate is an engineer so no problem making it look professional.

Has anyone got a guide for chain length when running 1x9?

Posted 1 year ago #
davidtaylforth - Member

If its road miles then I'd say you'd want a a bigish front ring like a 38tooth or more.

No need for a chain device on road but get an unramped chainring. As for the rear cassette, you could use a road one for some nice close ratios? You should be able to climb most things on 38/27 on an mtb

Posted 1 year ago #
BigJohn - Member

Chain length: wrap the chain around largest sprocket and chainring (missing out derailleur) bring it together and add 1 whole link. 2 if you're nervous that it will seem tight when you're in the big sprocket because it's not that critical if you're chain's a bit too long (with 1 ring and a long cage mech) but it is if it's too short.

Posted 1 year ago #
DT78 - Member

I did this over winter. I use a 40t middleburn DH ring no bash, and a normal lx mech/shifter & 11/34 cassette, no chain device needed. I do have shorter bolts - you could get away with original bolts with some spacers.

Plenty of range for road riding imo.

Posted 1 year ago #
alexpalacefan - Member

With 1x9 I would always go with a MTB cassette, as there's only one chainring the bigger range is nice.

APF

Posted 1 year ago #
davidtaylforth - Member

With 1x9 I would always go with a MTB cassette, as there's only one chainring the bigger range is nice.

Yeh it makes sense if you live in a hilly area and ride off road. But if your on the tarmac you dont need a 34 tooth rear cog

Posted 1 year ago #
V8_shin_print - Member

I'm in edinburgh and have been using this for years.

It is a DH middleburn 41T ring which only just clears the frame, mainly because I have it in the middle position on the cranks to maintain chainline. These rings don't need shorter bolts and the longer teeth mean the chain only pops off a couple of times a year, normally down steps, or bad landing from jumping off a curb etc.

At the back i have 12 - 25 cassette, cuts out all the lower gears you don't need for commuting and you can still get up from New Town or up the mound without standing.

Let me know if you want to have a quick go on it

Posted 1 year ago #
soobalias - Member

depends how steep the steep bits are.

though really you should go the whole hog:

SS*, 700c, drops, full guards and a pannier rack - proper commuter.

*pick a GI you can nearly get up the hills on and MTFU a bit.

Posted 1 year ago #
V8_shin_print - Member

PS: The main advantage of 1x9 is the drivechain is MUCH easier to clean as you don't have the mess of triple rings at the front to collect all that lovely tar-like crap.

Posted 1 year ago #
Xan - Member

Thanks all. I think I'll stick to the MTB cassette so that I have the option to offroad it. Might find a nice local detour to take home. I'll leave the guide at the moment and see how I get on. They seem a bit exspensive (c.£50 on flee bay) for what they are IMO.

Also sounds like the 38t and 11t-34t setup I was thinking about should work nicely.

Posted 1 year ago #
yossarian - Member

drill out your cable stops and run a full length outer plus cable oilers too.

as for a chain guide just get on to the classifieds and get a cheap front mech.

hubjub do short chainring bolts also

Posted 1 year ago #
V8_shin_print - Member

SOOBalias: If i needed to commute further I would go the 700c route too, but the number and size of the potholes in Edinburgh would make it a real liability. By sticking to 26" I can plough through the occasional one without having to throw myself under a bus trying to miss them!
Similar reasoning for the disc brakes, even a bus can brake quicker than v-brakes in the wet and that's not fair odds!

Posted 1 year ago #
Hallsy - Member

I run 38T (Goldtech unramped chainring) with 11-32T iirc.

I ride it on the road (short commute) and off road, and never have a problem with not being able to get a low enough gear. I think 2nd is the lowest I've ever shifted to up quite a steep hill. On the road, if anything, I think I could benfit from a 40T.

For offroad, again, I find it ideal, maybe a 36T might be a little better, but I have no issues with the 38T.

For chainlength, I either tend to use the +1 link as mentioned above, but generally with 1x9, as long as when you are in the largest combination there should still be some slack left in the rear mech, not a lot, but enough

Posted 1 year ago #
DT78 - Member

I have used mine offroad I found the ratio (40 11/34) absolutely fine for new forest/south downs, but then again there aren't many real hills down here.

Slicks in sand was interesting....

Posted 1 year ago #
Xan - Member

Cheers V8 shin print, I might take you up on that offer. Where do you commute from/to. I'll only use this when I stay at the other halves in Edinburgh. I normally drive to and from work cause I live in Airdrie, but might consider splitting the run and driving to Bathgate/Livingstone and cycling from there. I think cycling the A89 between Airdrie and Livi would be a bit of a suicide mission. Think there is canal path from Motorola that will give me c.15 miles each way. My Edinburgh commute will be from Meadowbank to The Gyle and back. c.8 miles each way depending on the run I take. Going to find a way to avoid the dual carriage way past fountain park that takes you to Murrayfield. that road seems a bit dodgy. Any ideas? I don't know the town too well I am afraid.

Posted 1 year ago #
V8_shin_print - Member

Hi Xan, send me an email when you are in Edinburgh if you want to have a go, email in profile.
I have a very short commute, only Polwarth to Queen Street. I'm now completely over-biked but it has happened that way over many years so I don't feel too bad!
There are plenty of bike only paths around Edinburgh, the only difficulty is finding a map of them! I think Spokes or Sustrans maybe publish a map but they used to be available for download. If I am picking up parcels from South Gyle I would head out along the canal. It might not be the quickest but keeps you out of the traffic. If you don't know where it is, the canal starts round the back of a pub called Cargo, where William Street meets Founatinbridge. It pretty much runs through the Gyle so might be worth a try.

Posted 1 year ago #
takisawa2 - Member

I am very much liking that matt-black stealth commuter above.
Very much. Very nice.

Posted 1 year ago #
rootes1 - Member

Has anyone got a guide for chain length when running 1x9?

i found the usual wrap round biggest sprocket plus add two links does not work for 1x9 when you have the middle of a triple as the biggest rather than the larger outer.

with the plus two method, chain no long enough to do 32t f and 34t rear when run round dérailleur

so i added 4 - works fine

Posted 1 year ago #
V8_shin_print - Member

thanks taki!
In an idea world the wheels would match, the pedals would still have bearings and the frame wouldn't have any holes or dents. Can't complain though, over 6-7 years it has evolved in to a very tough and reliable bike.The Project 2 on front makes it a bit porky but I see it as a built in bus catcher

Posted 1 year ago #
Xan - Member

Thanks V8.

I am in Edinburgh most weekends so I'll drop you an email when im free. I'f I am going to use the tow path I might try the speed kings I have in the garage. Think they should be ok on and off road.

Posted 1 year ago #

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