I might be looking at getting some high end light but strong wheels (part of an insurance replacement).
So what do people suggest, and why?
I was thinking of CrossMax's SLR, Cranks Bros Cobalt or ....?
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Light, strong wheels
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Posted 1 year ago #
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SLR are light, but not what I'd call strong. A mate of mine trashed the front in a relatively low-speed tumble first time out.
Posted 1 year ago # -
not idea then, the wheels would be for my GF's bike, and she never breaks anything (touch wood), so they don't have to be too strong.
What do people think of the Roval wheels?
Posted 1 year ago # -
I have two pairs of crank brothers Iodine, and seem pleanty strong enough, and stiff enough, the cobolt wheels should be equally good.
You could also look at i9 wheels on stans crest rims, I have i9s on stans arch rims and they are about 1550 grams, so pleanty light enough.
Posted 1 year ago # -
DT Swiss 1750 doodahs seem to be very strong and light (they do lighter but no idea how strong those are). Only issue could be with the front hub - if you are running a very stiff fork and very large disc then expect the disc-side bearing to need replacing sooner rather than later...I think the larger rotor and stiffer fork is meaning more braking force is stressing the bearing and it's wearing quicker.
This is from an observational level only and has no scientific or engineering background...
If I could afford them I'd have them as they are very good.
Posted 1 year ago # -
The for will be a 15mm Fox, 100 or 120. So not massive
Posted 1 year ago # -
All these factory wheels are going to be heavier and (considerably) more expensive than a decent handbuilt one.
For example-
Crank Bros Cobalt- £700, 1541g/pr
Stans 355 with DT Swiss 240s from Just Riding Along- £550, 1400g/pr
Posted 1 year ago # -
Or Stans 355 on Pro3 £385 - 1,473gr/pr
Posted 1 year ago # -
American Classic - 1500g or so for £400.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Slight thread hijack,
My rear DT Swiss 4.2D rim is pretty battered, ist there a tougher but not much heavier alternative? Mavic 719 perhaps, Stans Flow?
Cheers
Posted 1 year ago # -
my stans 355 rim has taken loads and is still true.
Although a lot of this is to how the wheel was built and how you ride.
Posted 1 year ago # -
As its an insurance replacement, its got to be a factory wheel. Nuts I know.
Posted 1 year ago # -
but you can get ztr rims / hope hoops as a factory wheel?
Posted 1 year ago # -
my stans 355 rim has taken loads and is still true.
True but all my wheel sets are built by merlin on Hope hubs the Mavic 717s seem to be staying straight and ding free, the DT swiss is a bit trashedAlthough a lot of this is to how the wheel was built and how you ride.
Posted 1 year ago # -
American Classic - 1500g or so for £400.
+1
New look this year too, white ones are almost OK looking?
http://www.amclassic.com/en/products/mtbwheels/mtb26disc.php
Posted 1 year ago # -
This
Hope Hoops Stans 355 on Pro3
Posted 1 year ago # -
Another definite endorsement of handbuilt wheels - they'll be more durable (and, should it come to it, more fix-able) than factory wheels.
Hopes and ZTR/355s seem very popular. Don't skimp on spokes - they define the strength and durability of the wheel. I use Sapim Race stainless steel double butted for most of mine, Force for the g'narly stuff and Laser or CX-Ray for specialist stuff. CX-Rays are truly excellent but at £3 a spoke, they flippin' ought to be.
Give me a shout at pete at ratracecycles dot com if you want a quote...
: P
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've got Stans crest rims on AM classic hubs (from JRA). I subscribed to the theory that the big flanges on the hubs means that you get a stringer wheel. Only had them 6 months but they are still true as a true thing on national true day (I've never been a wheel killer though). And they are really light. <1400g, £503.
Posted 1 year ago # -
AM Classics aren't known for longevity, the hub bearings aren't the best in the 225/130 hubs.
If it had to be factory wheels I'd really struggle, very few are particularly light. Roval Control SLs are light, but not the toughest.
Can you not argue that a wheel bought from a shop as a whole (such as the pre-built options from JRA) are 'factory' wheels?
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hope PRO3 XC6 with STANS 355 or crest rims
go for the xc6 rather than xc3 then you're not tied to the 3 bolt rotor
and they come supplied with a 15mm conversion for your fox 15s
Posted 1 year ago # -
how much do the XC6's weigh?
Posted 1 year ago # -
Ultimatly depends on your rotors but I believe if you use Hope floating rotors with Ti bolts they come in at the same weight as the XC3 with the 3bolt rotor on
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've got a set of mavic st's going for £300, 1600g used but in good nick. 15mm front ust wheels
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hope floating rotors aren't the lightest, I'd go for Ashima or sommat, then they'll be lighter, with none of the proprietary rotorness.
Posted 1 year ago # -
guys help me out - where is that site that has a product drop downs including hope and stans so that you can get the total weight of a custom wheel???????
Cannot find the site again.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've been very pleased with the strength/weight of my Roval Traversees, but if you're not going to give them a really hard time the Controlles are also pretty strong - although the carbon hub on the SLs is a bit troublesome I'm told. The EL version is very reliable though (essentially DT240 hubs), and look quite pretty too. Removable axle caps mean you can go with whatever standard you like.
Posted 1 year ago #
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