Been up on the flat roof to bodge a repair. What has become apparent is that the lead flashings between the house and the extension are crap.

3m length, how much would it cost to get a decent job done? What would be involved?

Can anyone suggest someone in Cheltenham or area who could do a decent job.

Probably twice the amount now that you’re have clarted everything in grey sticky stuff.

What is the issue with the flashing?

not joined together or overlapped, gaps between sections, coming away from wall, very shallow inset into wall.

Wall penetration has been done with an angle grinder and only into the render by the looks of it, then applied a silicone type mastic, but the angle grinder line is discontinuous across the roof so the lead goes up the wall by different amounts, one reason for the gaps.

Pic would be better.

I know, but its dark. will try and get some tomorrow. Todays job was make sure the roof was watertight before tonights rain. In doing so i have successfully hidden the problem quite well.

If it’s just a flat roofed extension, Type E cavity tray?

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Any pics? I’ve got similar issues which are compounded by glassing bars standing up into the flashing. Think its going to have to be the standard skirt into the wall and down wall over the roof butting up with a small fabricated piece soldered onto it. F….ing complicated and good lead workers rare as hens teeth.

Just had one chimney done £1000 inc scaffold. Gulp.

@wingnuts, can’t get pics until new years day, no daylight when i get home. But i suspect the temp repair will hide the problem quite well.

As for the comment about lead working, i can bodge it, i don’t really want to pay someone to bodge it!
From bruneeps link, thanks, it looks like the following needs to be done, chase a single grove across the wall to 25mm, rather than the multiple lines at 10mm, then apply 3? lengths of lead flashing, across the length. The only area i am not so sure about is how the flashings are terminated.

My flat roof is bordered by two different flat roofs on one side, grp and a bit higher than mine, it also overhangs my roof by a few inches. The other side is felt, the gap between the two has a brick wall with some poor lead underneath held in place with copping stones over the top.

Ideal solution is to strip the felt, check out the state of the deck, then add a slight pitch, kingspan/celotex/etc and put a membrane over the lot. and get all the beadwork done properly, Costs money though.

Done steel flashings and the like in a previous job, so have some idea of how to work with metal, also know i don’t have the kit.

Chase wants to be about 25mm deep & 6mm wide minimum, use a temporarily fixed batten to maintain a straight edge. Code 4 lead, maximum lengths of 1500mm, laps between sections 100mm minimum. Pre-form flashing lengths by laying on a stout timber/support/scaffold board allowing 25mm to overhang the edge, place a timber such as piece of 4 X 2 on top of the lead whilst bending the tuck with an improvised lead dresser, a piece of smooth 4 X 2 will do. Offer the now pre-bent flashing into the chase and secure with lead wedges. These are formed from 25-50mm wide off-cuts of lead which have been rolled 2 or three times, they should slide into the chase above the flashing, use a blunted chisel and club hammer to squash the wedges tightly into the chase. Wedge at 450mm max centers and use lead sheet sealant to point. If you need any more info mail me at the address in my profile and I’ll try and help; photos would be good.

Splitlip – thats a kind offer and I’ll take advantage please.

😆
Some of the above..