Hi Chaps,

The shifting on my Mojo SL has never been quite right. It feels as if the indexing is out by a very small amount for either up on down – i.e. if you get down shifting indexed perfectly, then upshifting is out.

I’ve replaced all outer cables, and played around with routing, and length of outer to use on each section. There *should* be no additional compression occurring in the outer to throw it out, the outer ends aren’t frayed, the inners have been replaced a few times, and I’ve tried a new hanger.

Everything is matched well – i.e. Sram x0 10sp mech and shifter, the freehub isn’t sitting proud of the hub, the cassette isn’t missing a spacer.

B-screw and limit screws are set up fine too.

The only things I can think of are: bent rear mech (but it looks straight), worn cassette or jockey wheels (chain is about 0.7, jockey wheels look fine), tolerances in the rear stays being slightly out, cable routing being pants and actually causing some line compression.

My only next thought is to try some Alligator I-links, to see if I can remove any compression that’s occuring.

anyone else have any ideas?

Cheers

Ricks

I personally found shifting marginally worse with I-links, not sure that’s much of a solution!

rickon – not that this will help you directly but I’ve got a Mojo with a SRAM XO drivetrain and it all works fine so the frame and gear combo should work. Sorry I can’t offer any improvement suggestions though! 😳

I get ‘some’ ghost shifting on mine as the sus compresses, not really tried to investigate properly though.
(gore cables and XTR shifters- XT mech)

Get it in to an LBS that has a mech alignment tool. And put a new chain on anyway, to save the cassette.

Hmmm….. BR – good idea, maybe I’ll slap on an XT mech and shifter and see how that goes – if the shifting is fine then that narrows down the search to shifter or mech, rather than anything else.

Not going to stick a new chain on, intention is to run everything into the ground this time. After running three chains at a time and switching them every few rides, I really can’t be bothered anymore! Viva la revolution!

Njee – I’ll not use Ilinks then, saved me money 🙂 Thanks.

Titus – the ghost shifting must be the cable routing shifting a catching as the shock compresses – I’ve got mine routed the opposite way to how Ibis recommend now – as the way they recommend fouls on the stem and spacers, and generally looks a bit noddy.

Tough one. Cables long enough? Getting caught in any linkages?

Is it as bad in the stand as when being ridden or better one way?

Cables are long enough, not caught anywhere at all – all lines are pretty clean with minimal bend.

In the workstand they’re very slightly better, and only really catch on two rings in the middle of the block.

I guess the compression on the shock causes more of a bend in the outer, so making it slightly worse to shift.

rickon, hanger also?

Replaced that already 😉

a bit longshot, but maybe try slab on a shimano shifter unit, and a rear mech ?

Drop it in to me at Sunset and i’ll put the hanger alignment tool on it for you. Just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s straight, you wouldn’t believe how many,and how far out some new bikes can be.Just out of interest, what cable outers/inners are you using, i’m pretty sceptical about using cheap ones on convoluted runs.

Have you dremel-ed the cable mounts and fitted non interupted cables.. ? Its a bike built in a dry dusty country not a mud festy clarty one… I dont know why bike manufacturers do this.

Plan B would be a Gore Ride On cable kit.

Mine work absolutely fine after doing this.

HTH