Got a rear pro II hub on my bike and I think there’s something wrong with the freehub. When you pedal backwards, the hub doesn’t move, so the chain just ends up loose at the top and drags the rear mech towards the chain rings. Then if you force the cassette to move backwards it doesn’t feel smooth at all.

Was fine the last time I rode it, which I admit was quite a few weeks ago. It was cleaned, and then just stored normally. What needs to be done?

bearings dragging because its cold? frozen freehub? strip and clean ime will sort it

It had been stored inside a warm dry room, so I don’t think its the temperature that’s done it.

Jockey wheels are my next guess then

Take wheel out and spin the freehub backwards and turn the axle to see if the drag is present then. If not check the jockey wheels, SRAM especially have a habit of seizing. If it it the hub, pop the freehub off (watch the pawls don’t fly out) and then check for water/dirt. Turn each bearing with your finger, one may have seized or degraded. How old is the hub? Hopes tend to have a fair drag when new and the cold weather may be exaggerating it.

Already had the chain off to check everything induvidually, jockey wheels are nice and smooth (shimano xt). Freehub is not smooth. I’ll have to take the freehub off then.

Pro 2s are dead simple luckily, just pull the freehub off and have a looksee

No special tools needed? I looked at stripping it down before to give it a clean out, and I was told I needed about 3 different tools I didn’t have. So I’ve kinda been thinking they were much more complex (I’ve done shimano hubs before, they’re easy..)

Mine’s doing the same at the mo. I think it’s just the cold. Having a load of snow packed into the block cuts out most of the racket from the feehub too 🙂

“RealMan – Member

No special tools needed? I looked at stripping it down before to give it a clean out, and I was told I needed about 3 different tools I didn’t have. So I’ve kinda been thinking they were much more complex (I’ve done shimano hubs before, they’re easy..)”

Nah, no special tools. Some are available for bearing fitting but the freehub just pulls off (can be quite hard, but is toolfree) and the pawls and springs are on the end of the freehub body for you to clean up. You just need to be careful to get the seals etc back in right and the right way round- the only downer of the Pro 2 is that it can look right even when it’s not.

Ok I’m struggling at the first hurdle, getting the driveside spacer off. I can get it to wobble, but not come free at all. I don’t have a vice.

I use a pipe wrench or sometime mole grips if its stubborn. Also if you can get the nds one off knock it out with the qr

Won’t the freehub get in the way of using the qr to knock the ds spacer out?

Also tried dragging the whole thing off by putting part of the cassette back on with the lockring, but no use.

RealMan – Member

“Ok I’m struggling at the first hurdle, getting the driveside spacer off. I can get it to wobble, but not come free at all. I don’t have a
vice.”

It’s just held on with interference fit, just an o-ring so if you can get it to wobble you’re halfway there. I know molegrips are a knobber’s tool but that’s what I use anyway, works a charm- get a wobble and a pull on at the same time.

It might be possible to get the freehub off with the axle cap still attached but I had a hell of a job shifting mine so I’d sooner not try. Ended up putting the wheel on a couple of blocks of wood and standing on it so I could pull on it (again with a wobble on). The Hope vid shows it basically just lifting off with a gentle pull, not a chance with mine

Mine just popped off with a pull and a bit of a twist.

Watch the seal when putting it back on too. That’s when the proper tool helps.

Once you’ve got it apart, my money’s on the outer bearing being siezed. If your LBS is open, it’s also a good idea to change the pawl springs when you service it as they have a tendency to break(and you may not notice until the last one goes when you’re miles from nowhere).

pro 2 ones dont really break

if theyre over 2 years old (and theyre silver} id change them next time you have it in bits, pawls too(you do clean it out and regrease it regularely dont you ?). if its newer than that the springs should be ok. pawls and ratchets do wear over time though so you should replace the pawls every now and then depending on use. 😉

Pro 2 ones don’t really break

If were talking about the springs, your mistaken IME but it mainly when you remove them to clean the freehub (they just snap on the crease), though it maybe you have the newer type spings. No bother to replace, interesting to hear the new ones are stronger.
My bet with you issue would be the outer freehub bearing, I’ve had 2 go, but their the only bearing that have go in 2 years use. The outer freehub spacer is alway the hardest part of the service for me, even when well greased. Molegrips & lots of waggling will get you there in the end.

My ProII rears if the free hub goes stiff it has been caused by the hub bearing behind free hub seized.

Check out the video on the Hope website for tips

Oh, if you’re still having hassle with the freehub spacer, is it cold? The orings stiffen up a bit in the cold, get it up to room temperature and it can be a fair bit easier