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Help! So many questions.. (About my drivetrain)
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timidwheelerFull Member
Hi,
The drive chain on my Nerve+ is on it’s last legs and I have decided to replace the Sram 3X10 setup to XT 2×10. I have been riding more rocky stuff and the chain just bounces all over the place. I’ve ordered a few bits in the crc sale and have an XT 38/24 and 11-36 on the way.
I have a few questions:
Will I get away with a medium cage mech? I have a (probably) long cage on the way from on-one but might send it back. CRC will do me a medium cage SLX one or is it worth going elsewhere for an XT medium?
Can I fit a bashguard to 2×10? Any advice on which one?
I want to fit a chain device. What do I need?
I currently have a Raceface X Type bottom bracket will the XT one be a direct replacement?
Canyon included a ISIS plate for Hammerschmidt. Is this any use?
Lastly, internally routed cables. Is there a full outer cable? Can I just leave it in place and thread the new inner through.
Cheers for any help. I really appreciate it.
njee20Free MemberWill I get away with a medium cage mech?
Yes, have you gone for a Shadow Plus mech? If not send it back anyway and get one.
Can I fit a bashguard to 2×10? Any advice on which one?
Yes, but you’ll need to space it out and some longer bolts. Can’t help on which one.
I want to fit a chain device. What do I need?
A chain device
I currently have a Raceface X Type bottom bracket will the XT one be a direct replacement?
Yes, you don’t actually even need to replace it – they’re interchangeable.
Canyon included a ISIS plate for Hammerschmidt. Is this any use?
No
Lastly, internally routed cables. Is there a full outer cable? Can I just leave it in place and thread the new inner through.
It varies, and I’ve not done a Canyon, but it’s very rare to have full length outer. Usually you get a piece of clear plastic tube with the bike – slide this over the old inner (in situ), remove old inner, thread new one through tube, remove tube.
timidwheelerFull MemberCheers, there seem to be a lot of different chain guides on the market. I’m not sure how to work out which mount I need.
When you say I need to “space it out” do you literally mean with some sort of washer? Sorry if this should be obvious.
Thanks for the cable advice I will have a hunt through all the stuff that came with the bike.
kayak23Full MemberThe bash guard takes the place of the biggest ring you took off. Sometimes, because they tend to be thicker than rings, you may need longer bolts.
For a 2x drivetrain I’d recommend a Blackspire stinger. They do them with mounts to suit whatever your bike has, or doesn’t have.
timidwheelerFull MemberRight, so if I put a 2×10 chainset on there is no way to run a bashguard?
kayak23Full MemberYes there is. The smallest and middle ring stay where they are. The bashguard takes the place of the largest ring that you take off.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePVBnoaetPk[/video]
njee20Free MemberYes there is. The smallest and middle ring stay where they are. The bashguard takes the place of the largest ring that you take off.
Not necessarily – if you have a proprietary double with both rings mounted on one set of holes – like the M985 Race. Then you need some washers and longer bolts.
With XT double, although you’re not actually removing an outer ring the double outer is mounted in board of the spider – so you can still attach the bash to the outside of the spider, with longer bolts as Kayak said.
timidwheelerFull MemberI’m not planning on removing a ring I want to run it as a 2×10.
I get that I can mount something to the outside of the spider but clearly the crank arm will be in the way if I use a conventional bash ring? (Or am I being stoopid).
kayak23Full MemberSorry, I misunderstood. I thought you were changing by way of modification, not purchase.
The easiest way really would be to send the double back and buy a triple chainset version, chuck away the big ring and fit the bash to that.
timidwheelerFull MemberI think I will give up on the idea of the bash. Thanks for the advice all, especially the hint to look in the bike box for some clear tube. I suspect that has made life significantly less frustrating.
JoeGFree MemberThere are 2 different current model XT cranks.
M780 is a triple (24-34-42):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m780-10-speed-triple-chainset/rp-prod67199
You could easily remove the big (42) ring and replace ti with a bash. You may need longer chainring bolts.M785 is a double (24-38, 26-38, or 28-40):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m785-10-speed-double-chainset/rp-prod67200
The outside face of the spider is contoured (not flat like the M780) so it would be hard to mount a regular bash. A little more discussion here. It looks like there is a Blackspire Defender is made for the M785 double.Also, the clutch rear derailleur may be enough to control your chainslap. Try it first, then add a chainguide if the clutch doesn’t do enough for you.
curiousyellowFree MemberInternal cables are really fiddly if you’ve not done them before.
Take your time, use the supplied plastic tubing with the cable in situ (like njee20 said) before you go further. If you ride in really muddy stuff, or if your cable tension is pretty tight then you’ll probably find that the end caps on the outer has wedged into the opening on the frame. Get a cheap set of dentist’s picks off eBay or an awl so you can prise these out. Don’t deform them with a screwdriver like I did and make life hard for yourself.
Some GT85 or some sort of light lubricant may also come in handy with this.
When replacing the cable you will find there is a plastic guard at the bottom of the frame under the BB. This may have an end cap from the outer wedged in too. Refit this before tensioning your cable.
Consider buying one of those 3rd hand tools. If you’ve not done a cable replacement before, then make sure you get the cable routing and tension right before cutting off the excess length. The routing for the E2 front mech they use is a bit annoying to work with as it’s quite confined.
timidwheelerFull MemberCheers guys. I currently have an x9 rear mech and have still been having problems with the chain jumping. That black spire defender looks perfect. Thanks for that. I had done a lot of googling and not found anything.
Curious thanks for the tips. It will be a first for me on internal routing. Luckily I don’t have an e2 front so have dodged that bullet. For future reference the Hammerschmidt plate mentioned above should have read ISCG (my phone changed it). It is needed to fit any ISCG5 device.timidwheelerFull MemberRight one more quick question.
I’m almost done but the chain guide sticks out a little too far and will rub on the chain. I can add an additional spacer to the drive side and it fits perfectly but I don’t like the effect that has on the non drive side crank. I also worry it will throw everything else out. Any ideas?timidwheelerFull MemberIn case anyone wants to know in the future. I couldn’t make a Blackspire or superstar chain guide fit a canyon Nerve+.
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