Thought this may be helpful to some as I didn’t know if it would work til I tried it!

I have a 2010 Santa Cruz Heckler and wanted to fit a Rockshox Reverb Stealth. I managed to route the hose through the BB shell, there is just about enough clearance with a shimano hollowtech II bb, and I imagine any frame would be the same.

The hose then exits through a bottle cage boss. These are a 4mm hole as standard and needed minimal drilling (with 6mm bit) to allow the hose to pass though. I think the hole for a cage boss should be 7mm so you could drill out the boss/rivnut completely if you wished.

Works ok, would be better if the rivnuts were on top of the DT rather than underneath, but there is plenty of clearance between the loop of hose and the crank arm. If you are planning on doing this measure your max seat height before hand so you can work out hose length! The only downside is you need to take the cranks and BB out to adjust the seat post height!

Horrendous cable routing out of the bottle boss. Do it properly and drill the headtube!

Just going to buy a 150mm KS lev

OP: Nice, thanks for sharing.

Good effort! Exit point could look better but fair play for giving it a go.
Teardrop/angled exit point would look better but appreciate that could weaken a tube- maybe someone from on here could advise of a way to do it without causing structural probs- Ben Cooper perhaps??

Don’t get it. Are people drilling frames cos they don’t want a bit of hydraulic hose running along their top tube?

Genuine question, i’m not yet a dropper post user. Hopefully will be soon though.

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Don’t get it. Are people drilling frames cos they don’t want a bit of hydraulic hose running along their top tube?

More to get rid of the loop that moves around when the post drops (on some models- Gravity Dropper and KS Lev don’t do it)

Don’t get it. Are people drilling frames cos they don’t want a bit of hydraulic hose running along their top tube?

Not quite, the idea being to avoid the hose attached to the top of the post. Not the External-ness of it. The problem is, the design of the posts means that you can’t run the control to the outer portion of the visible post so it has to go through the frame.

[edit] beaten to it

DIY stealth routing on a carbon Nomad!

Not sure I could bring myself to do that to my carbon frame…

Now that looks better! But will it not weaken the frame??

I’ve seen it done to a head tube looks ace I’ll try and get pics

Maybe you could use something like this to get a better angle out of the boss?

I won’t weaken the frame. But it will weaken your ability to claim anything under warranty.

I’ve thought about doing something like this but one thing I really like about a normal Reverb is how easy it is to remove if something where to go wrong… but in two years of reverb useage I’ve had no failures after the initial “expected” failure I got since I bought two mk1’s 🙄

Well done though 8)

transmission – do you know of such a part that is compatible with MTB brake hose?

I thought about getting something like that but couldn’t find anything. If you could get more flexible hose that would make things easier if anyone knows of anything?

No sorry but if you find something let me know. Could be worth getting in touch with a hydraulics specialist though. I did have a quick look around http://www.goodridge.net/ but I didn’t see anything.