Eep! I went out shopping with the Mrs this weekend and ended up coming home with a road bike!
So far after one commute I have learned:
- I need to seriously re-evaluate my braking distances
- the smoothness of Sheffield's roads indicates that the council HATES roadies
- Riding in the drops is bloody scary! Not sure I'll get used to that any time soon.
- acceleration is ridiculously quick, as are hills now!
Anyone have any tips for a newbie roadie?
Keep on keeping on.
Oh, and MTFU works as a general rule.
If you thought the braking distances were 'interesting' in the dry - wait until it's wet.
New (good) pads can help though if they really are dire, if you can't lock a wheel then I'd spend a bit of time improving things.
Pump your tyres up harder. 30psi is only good for mountain bikes, you need 120-130psi. Then enjoy the potholes to their full extent.
Take the peak off your helmet.
When passing other roadies, acknowledge them with no more than a finger waggle - any more upsets your aerodynamics.
Be amazed at the local guys on mountain bikes who normally give you a cheery wave and nod 
. Now you're on a road bike, they can't even see you 
!
You will now observe what all us roadies know.
That the roads are a national joke. In South Staffs where i am we have potholes 4" deep.
Keep at it, it's awesome!
always assume there's more than one car waiting to get past you, plan your braking & gear changes in advance of junctions.
always pay attention to whats going on around you, don't take risks, get some flashing lights.
I need to seriously re-evaluate my braking distancesSorry but in the dry there is no difference between a road brake, v brake or disc brake. You need to sort your brakes out if they are not working.
Get some 25c tyres if you've not already got them (I'm assuming the stock tyres were 23c...). Way more comfy, and can be run lower pressure than 23c, and therefore grippier (I run 90 front / 100 rear @ a bit over, ahem, 12 stone). Win!
Braking from the drops is much more effective - appreciate it feels more committed (it is!) but it's way better than trying to brake from being on the hoods. Hoods ok if you're just trying to scrub some speed off rather than stop.
STATO - Member
I need to seriously re-evaluate my braking distances
Sorry but in the dry there is no difference between a road brake, v brake or disc brake. You need to sort your brakes out if they are not working.
it will never get easier - just faster 
Hmm seems like i wasnt the only one to impulse buy a road bike at the weekend!
I'm with you on braking distances, do the pads get better once they've scrubbed in a bit?
Oh and the pedals that came on the bike with the strap things, wtf?!
Alas my ex locked me out of the house so I couldnt get alternatives.
It's not so much the brakes as he contact patch with the road, it's way easier to lock up road tyres even with road brakes.
Loving the tips and the velominati link 
It probably is just a case of poor beginner technique for braking, I'm not ready to commit yet! Might take me a couple more rides. Though if it is also a case of useless pads, what's a recommended replacement?
Cheers so far gents!
road brakes are fine, it's a different way of riding (forget mtbs & discs)
the only time I'd like discs is when a car suddenly stops or pulls out.
straps on pedals are just a cheap option to get started. get some spd's and unlock some free speed
Make sure your limit screws are set correctly, and always carry a spare derailleur hanger
Taking the peak off your helmet is a valid tip. It stops you having to crane your neck so high to see under it when on the drops.
sb
It's not so much the brakes as he contact patch with the road, it's way easier to lock up road tyres even with road brakes.
Actually, the contact patch doesn't make that much difference. Friction is equal to the coefficent of friction multiplied by the normal force (i.e. the weight on the tyre). Contact area doesn't come into it. In the real world there are other factors you need to consider, but the contact area isn't as big a deal as people make out.
On a dry road, the limiting factor to how fast you can stop has nothing to do with grip anyway - there's enough grip to put you over the bars. So the limiting factor is how hard you can brake without the back wheel lifting, which is down to geometry and weight distribution.
Big different in brakes as well, my winter bike came with Tiagra which seized solid in about 4 months, replaced with 105 which are marginally better, they've not seized, not really any more powerful though.
Summer bike has Dura Ace 7800s which have had new cables about 3 times in 8 years, and are absolutely fantastic, bags and bags of power and feel.
Taking the peak off your helmet is a valid tip. It stops you having to crane your neck so high to see under it when on the drops.
and your Camelbak will get in the way...
dont wear a camel pack 
- oh and shave your legs or you'll never progress!
seriously though get some lycra with a padded arse & some mitts with padded palms
@B_leach
welcome to road bikes!
every mountain biker should have one, they are great for going out riding (to keep fit and get your cycling fix) when the weather is filthy and you are fed up of spending 45 minutes cleaning your mountain bike and kit after every ride!
its great to own different kinds of bikes, have fun with your road bike
i have cheap-5hit tektros on my stock, 5 year-old langster, and that stops just fine. try cleaning the rims with IPA or something. they may have something on there to stop them discolouring or something.
Enjoy a new line in Christmas present idea's, as I did this year....
...oh and be careful, its strangely addicitive.
pdw - Member
It's not so much the brakes as he contact patch with the road, it's way easier to lock up road tyres even with road brakes.
Actually, the contact patch doesn't make that much difference. Friction is equal to the coefficent of friction multiplied by the normal force (i.e. the weight on the tyre). Contact area doesn't come into it.On a dry road, the limiting factor to how fast you can stop has nothing to do with grip anyway - there's enough grip to put you over the bars.
Sorry but this post contains a significant quantity of bovine faeces.
What you say about friction and contact area is correct for hard materials only , but does not apply to rubber. Rubber on tarmac - more surface area = greater grip.
Secondly, more grip does allow you to stop quicker for several reasons. First you can brake harder with the rear wheel, second in reality, on my road bike at least, there is often not in fact enough front wheel grip to throw you over the bars, even in the dry (unless you ride like a muppet and have your weight right over the front).
Braking distances are significantly longer on my road bike compared to my mountain bike, even on a smooth dry road, and it's nothing to do the the brakes, and everything to do with grip.
Every time ive had to do an emergency stop on the road (be it on an MTB or skinny road tyres) ive ended up doing the last few meters balencing on the front wheel. Are you telling me if i got fatter tyres i could somehow stop faster without going over the bars? Once youve got a certain level of grip and braking force adding more of either will do nothing, the deceleration of a bicycle is restricted by the fact your COG is above the level of the front axle.
Sorry but this post contains a significant quantity of bovine faeces.
What you say about friction and contact area is correct for hard materials only , but does not apply to rubber. Rubber on tarmac - more surface area = greater grip.
The rule is not limited to hard surfaces, but as I noted in my previous post, that equation isn't the whole story either. But the fact is that skinny road tyres on dry tarmac have shed loads of grip. If you don't believe me, just look at pros cornering:
Secondly, more grip does allow you to stop quicker for several reasons. First you can brake harder with the rear wheel, second in reality, on my road bike at least, there is often not in fact enough front wheel grip to throw you over the bars, even in the dry (unless you ride like a muppet and have your weight right over the front).Braking distances are significantly longer on my road bike compared to my mountain bike, even on a smooth dry road, and it's nothing to do the the brakes, and everything to do with grip.
You seem confused between front wheel grip and braking power. Are you saying that your front wheel will skid before your back wheel lifts? Or are you just saying that you don't have enough power in the brakes to lift the rear wheel?
Assuming that you have enough braking power (which you may or may not do) and enough grip (which you will do in the dry on any bike other than a recumbent or tandem) to lift the back wheel, then being able to "brake harder with the rear wheel" is irrelevant. The fastest way to stop is to brake to the point that the rear wheel is just on the edge of lifting, at which point there's no grip available for braking with the rear wheel anyway.
Anyone have any tips for a newbie roadie? (in sheffield)
a 28t cassette will help a lot*.
28mm tyres at 60psi take the edges off the potholes.
the spiced apple cake in elliots cafe, hathersage, is lovely.
there's some good riding on quiet swoopy roads around strines.
(*especially when the spiced apple cake is sitting heavily in your stomach, and you're riding up past the scotchman's pack, wishing you had listened to me about the 28t cassette, but hadn't listened to me about the heavy 28mm tyres...)
if it is also a case of useless pads, what's a recommended replacement?
i've recentl found clarks to be good enough, swissstop are meant to be very good, buy C-reaction haven't delivered them yet...
All the things you're worrying about? just don't
Leave the bike as it is. Leave the 23s on, 100 each end is plenty.
Yeah, remove the peak but don't replace it with a cotton one.
Be humble.
the yellow jersey guide to the tdf is a good read.
as is- the rider,krabbe.
and velocio,though I've only read of him.nothing by him,except his commandments.
http://thebikeshow.net/velocios-7-commandments-for-the-wise-cyclist/
fiddle with everything.bar height,reach,saddle height,setback.but one thing at a time.and about 2-3mm per adjustment.keep your bars high,then lower them as you feel better.get a fit done.it's a good starting point.
have fun.
All the things you're worrying about? just don't
Leave the bike as it is. Leave the 23s on, 100 each end is plenty.
this^ ignore the MTB sensibilities. in the same way that roadies don't know better with mtb setup don't expect mtb'ers to know better about roadbikes.
naturally if you are a cyclist you know how to do both
23's and a psi to suit your weight. (67kilo's so i only use 85-90 front/90-100 rear)
Make sure your limit screws are set correctly, and always carry a spare derailleur hanger
Make sure you count your sprockets before each ride....
This may be of use, particularly the bit about rolling resistance (one of the reasons I like 25c tyres, not just comfort).
Sorry but in the dry there is no difference between a road brake, v brake or disc brake. You need to sort your brakes out if they are not working.
Bollocks. You can spout all the theory you want, still bollocks.
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