Elixir cr contact point adjust question.

Evening all.
Just fitted a brand new pair of elixir cr,s today.
I,m not new to setting up brakes so all was a doddle.
My question is even with th c/point adjust all the way out and the lever adjust all the way out the lever bite point is a bit toooo close to the bars for my liking.
Any tips,hints or voodoo spells that can rectify this.
cheers guys….

Same with mine.. Wound the bite point all the way out, but it’s only about an inch and a half from the bars.

I’ve since learned to love the bite point that close. Means i can leave more of my hand on the bars.

cheers anton.
I was thinking along those lines that it,s something i,ll get used to.
One fingered braking and it,s nearly on my nuckle.
Havn,t even bed them in yet so we,ll see.
Any voodoo or witch craft spells out there… 😉

bedding them in is a fine art..

Read on the Sram website that they rekon going from a walking pace to a slow crawl (Without locking or stopping the wheels) about 10 times, then go from a running pace to nearly stopped 10 times.

Worked for mine. My brakes are now super powerful.

I topped that process off by going from sprinting speed in the fastest gear my bike has to nearly stopped as fast as i can. Get a little bit of warmth in there and they’ll be reet. Don’t feather the brakes until they’re bedded in.

So it,s not bloody big hill,brake but don,t stop and repeat method as normal??
yer no feathering=fully double glazed

the closer to the bar your bite point is, the less arm pump you’ll get on those long/bumpy descents

yer i know oink but they are just to close even when adjusted out…

Mine were the same on the front when I got them. Was thinking about bleeding them for a few weeks but kept putting it off.

I then took my forks off and left the brake attached to them as I was fitting a new headset. They were off for a couple of days and when I put the forks back on they were loads better. I had to adjust the contact point back out by quite a bit. No idea what happened but they never needed that bleed.

It’ll be because the pistons are sticky in the bores, and you’ll have air in the system. Remove the pads and get the pistons moving freely, then give them a decent bleed, and you’ll find that you’ve now got hardly any lever travel before they start to bite(this based on having to do this on every bl**dy bike fitted with them before it’s allowed to leave the workshop).

coatsey.Don,t think there,s any air in the system as the bite point is rock solid.
pistons are nice and free.
I,ll give the sram way of closing the pad gap ago.
remove from rotor,set gap at 1mm,reinsert pad spacer,remove and realign.
don,t really want to bleed them as
1.no bleed kit
2.never done it before. 😳

After owning Shimano I must say I find the Elixir CR a right faff. Get’s worse when you try and change the brake pads and end up having to bleed the system, not exactly trail side maintenance.

gothandy.why would have to do a re-bleed ?

probably because there’s always air in them from new until you bleed them properly,mostly it’ll sit in the reservoir until you turn the bike upside down and either disturb the caliper pistons, or pull the lever, at which point it’ll enter the pressurised part of the system and you’ll have no brakes.Avid’s factory bleeds are dire, you’ll never get the best from these brakes without a proper bleed and careful set up.

getting them to work well is all in the lever bleed, easy when you know how but a faf to start with. you have to expelled all the air from the lever. you need a bleed kit…..

Hi coatsey.Well sounds like your the guy with the knowledge on These so think i,ll get them bled by my friendly neighbor hood lbs.
Re freeing the piston.clean seal area with dot 5.1 or will dot 4 do as iv,e got a bottle of that.?

Would recommend silicone lube over DOT fluid as it’s a lube, and not corrosive, available from plumbers suppliers as they use it on plastic pipework.Personally, i’d suggest getting a bleed kit, will cost about the same as getting them bled at a shop, but you can take your time ensuring every last bubble is gone,and get the satisfaction of having done a good job too.

Right ok i,ll haver a bash my self.
I,m pretty good with mechanicals so should be fine.
Whats the best way to bleed them with the lever adjusted right in or out bud.
Thanks coatsey….

Sorry i meant pad contact gizmo in or out.

check out the sram/elixir youtube vid….

Cheers XXX