The top cup of my headset is creaking inside the frame and it went in very easily when I fitted it. Is there some kind of stuff I can apply to it to stop this and get a tighter fit? Obviously I don’t want it to get stuck in there but the fact it’s loose probably means it won’t be too difficult to remove in the future if I use the right stuff now. I’m thinking some kind of rubber solution might do it? Thanks.

Stud & bearing fitting compound from various companies such as Loctite may sort it.

Ok thanks. Anyone got any other suggestions?

New frame and headset 🙂

No don’t say that!

Try loctite 638 retaining compound you will still be able to remove it with some force.

There is no lube like force.

I might have to look into this, I have an integrated headset that is creaking. Never had one before but was quite surprised that I could fit the bearings with just my fingers

umm. aren’t integrated headsets just effectively the cup integral to the frame? why would the bearings be a tight fit?

@ the OP, 638 as suggested, but probably worth a good look around your HT and make sure it isn’t cracked or something..

The integrated headset on my Trek road bike creaked. Took the bearings out (a fairly loose fit) and refitted with a dab or two of stud lock. Been fine for over 2 years now. Greasing the cups would also stop the creak but I don’t think its really the right way to cure it.

It’s the first integrated headset I’ve had but if the bearings can move side to side in the cup, that seems a bad idea

Surely the bearings can’t move side to side once it’s all tightened up?

Two relatively smooth surfaces vs huge amounts of leverage

The creaking says they can

yeah, but the bearing is tapered, and so is the frame to suit, right?
so you’d grease it, which would allow you to snug it up properly, no creak?
just like a regular headset?
bearing fit loctite would do as well, i guess, but in the first instance it would act a lubricant to allow you to snug it up…

It is tapered but I’m used to press fit bearings not sloppy throw it in from the other side of the room bearings.

Hence why I’m keeping an eye on this thread

Grease would help remove the creak but wouldn’t stop the movement. Foci the symptoms not the problem

I’m almost certain it’s the cup and nothing else. It looks like someone got a bit over enthusiastic with the reaming as we all know can happen. I wasn’t expecting much more feedback so went out and got some silicone which should do the job. Thanks.

if the top cup is loose in the frame as you originally stated then i’d really recommend some loctite 638 or similar bearing fit adhesive.
silicon is a 5hit idea. of course it’s entirely up to you, but you did ask for advice, right?
i suppose advice is worth what you paid for it. good luck, whatever you decide.

Silicone??

Silicone lube? Cos I didn’t think you were meant to use silicone as a lube between metal surfaces?

Or silicone sealant? Not sure that would be a good idea either.

Grease will remove the creak by acting as a lube between the moving surfaces. Its just a result of manufacturing tolerances that you’d struggle to get two conical surfaces to mate perfectly? There will always be some mismatch even if it is miniscule.

🙂 I got silicone sealant but I haven’t applied it yet. I’ll give that 638 stuff a go then if it’s better. What harm would a thin layer of silicone sealant do anyway just to fill the gaps?

It’s not the right tool for the job. I doubt it would work to stop the movement (I guess it may dampen the creaking though) and it’d make a mess. The loctite bearing fit is exactly the tool for the job and it should work fine.

Indeed, studlock sets solid and I think it’s good for filling gaps up to a mm or two. It only needs a few dabs and is also easy enough to break the bond when it’s time to remove the bearings