Ingenious idea, store your pump and levers in your crank.

the plastic bolt actually preloads so it actually does something in the system – I am not sure that this has replicated this

Nice idea though

Nice idea, ok for a race. I’d still want a pump (100psi for a start) plus it will only do one tube.

* cough *

and you get a washer that lets you set the axle tension using the standard Shimano bolt, and then remove it after clamping the crank arm pinch bolts.

I like that, great thinking.

then remove it after clamping the crank arm pinch bolts.

Maybe it’s just me, but that doesn’t compute. I find it impossible to remove the plastic doo-dah once the pinch bolts are done-up.

Equally, I’ve also found that the pinch bolts don’t quite hold the crank arm in place on their own. Run it without the plastic bit for whatever reason and the crank always works loose.

[quote]Shimano’s plastic bolt is there to preload the the axle, so your axle doesn’t slide side-to-side. CrankPump is made of the same glass fibre reinforced Nylon material as Shinmano’s preload bolt. Shimano recommends the preload bolt is tightened to between 0.7 to 1 NM. Once the pinch bolts have been tightened, the axle tension is firmly clamped, and you can remove the Shimano preload bolt (CrankPump includes a washer to make it easy to remove). You can screw in and remove CrankPump (by hand) when you need to fix a flat tyre. To ensure CrankPump can be removed without loosening the pinch bolts, its flange is a slightly smaller diameter than the original preload bolt, so CrankPump doesn’t get clamped in place.[/quote]
C’mon guys. Read the article and then criticize 🙂

Bike pumps are annoying. They live on a bracket that hangs off your bike getting ugly…

Yeah…it’s the pump that’s making your bike ugly 😀

what for when we have you to do that for us 😉

I had not read the FAQ bit

A 12g cannister is enough to completely inflate a 23mm road tyre, and partially inflate every other tyre enough to get you home.

Can we agree that this is a bit mleh

A 12g canister should get a 26″ MTB tyre to somewhere around 30psi. That’s higher than most folk run tubeless. Might start to get an issue with 29ers though and you can rule out fatbikes 🙂

FWIW I still think it is a good idea to have one there in case your pump breaks had that happen once I was not impressed
wont work with my XTR though

Ooh. Get her with her fancy la-di-da XTR!

Not sure what size my CO2 canisters are, but they’ll do a road tyre to 100psi, 26″ tyres to about 30psi and big chunky 29er tyres to “a bit soft but it’ll get home”.

But the biggest problem is, CO2 canisters are tiny! Why would I want to bother threading it in and out of my crank when I can keep it in a pocket, or velcro it under a saddle.

where’s your AndyStand going to go ?

I could have said with my square taper Deore if that helps 8)

FWIW they are no better than any other crank i have ever owned and I would not pay the premium again.

Because it’s fitted to the bike, job done. One less item to remember to pick up when you go for a ride.

in case your pump breaks

This happened to me the other day. Got a flat next to a junction and long line of traffic, fixed the puncture and then my frickin pump didn’t work.

Had to walk 30 minutes home. And I bet all the cars thought I couldn’t fix a puncture as well.

hrmph.

Because it’s fitted to the bike, job done. One less item to remember to pick up when you go for a ride.

My pumps are either;
In my Osprey, so always with me when I go off road, or in the holder under my bottle cage.

So, dependent on which bike I take, I’ll always have one with me. Even on this one;

(Not my photo!)

First puncture*, wang a tube in and inflate. Second puncture, Park patch and inflate. Third puncture, as second.

*Some of the bikes are tubeless, so these are rare! Already working out how to make the new one tubeless.